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  1. #51
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    Measurements for those of you considering one.

    Stand over height with 26" knobbies = 30 inches
    seat tube center to top = 20"
    top tube center to center = 23"
    wheel base = 42"

    I don't know if these ever came in different frame sizes. All the bikes & photos I've seen look the same. Fuji sold their mtbs in several sizes but they might have agreed with Marlboro that "1 size fits all" like all box marts do now.

    My road bikes are mostly 54 cm ct x 54.5 cc. That's a 21" seat tube with a 21" top tube. As frames get taller, they do get longer but not at same rate. A 60 cm frame would not have a 60cm top tube. This fuji is 2 inches longer than normal imo. Back in the 1970s many manufacturers would use overly long top tubes in shorter frames to prevent the front wheel from hitting your feet.

    40" wheel base is rather average.
    Crit or track racing bikes can be as short as 38"
    Many vintage long distance bikes were about 42"
    Mountain bikes tend to be longer, my 19" 2002 specialized rockhopper FS a1 with shock fork is 43"

    I realized the rattling on mine is where the seat post fits loosely in the top tube seat lug. The seat tube seat lug hosts the clamp. The ritchey breakaway bikes use 2 seat post bolts, one on each seat lug to prevent any rattling.

  2. #52
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    I am missing mine now, because of this thread. I might have to go down to DC one of this days and get it back from my brother.

  3. #53
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    Fit of Fuji Folder

    My Fuji fits me OK, I suppose...but then I happen to have long arms and legs. (34/35 shirtsleeve and 33-34 inseam)
    I did, however, raise the seat as high as it was safe to, in order to accommodate my long-ish legs. I'm satisfies with it...besides, whaddaya want, anyway, for a $200 / 2500 'Marlboro Mile' bicycle ??

    The cars I've loaded it in and out of include a '64 Chevy II, a '67 Nova Station Wagon, the unusually large trunk of a '40 Chevy Business Coupe street rod and my Fuji's usual carrier, a Ranger P/U with a topper. Have yet to dismount the wheels for added clearance.

    As you might suspect, I'm an Old Car guy masquerading as a Cyclist.

  4. #54
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    Spotted on Craigslist:

    http://quadcities.craigslist.org/bik/2884645815.html

    Folding Fuji Marlboro MTB - $20 (Moline, IL)
    Date: 2012-03-04, 4:58PM CST
    Reply to: gksj4-2884645815@sale.craigslist.org

    Available is an odd story of a frame. I have fallen in love with the story but find it necessary to get rid of the frame. For sale is a folding Marlboro promotional mountain bike labeled by Fuji and made by RedloF (folder). It is red in color, meant for 26" wheels, and folds in half. The main tubes are a 4130 Cro-Mo steel. $20 CASH ONLY.

  5. #55
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    Thank all of you who are so dedicated to this bike. I enjoy your passion and knowledge of it. I am almost sorry I sold it now.

  6. #56
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    Ormond Beach Florida Craig's List:

    http://daytona.craigslist.org/bik/2918933852.html

    26" LADIES FUJI FOLD-UP BIKE, MARLBORO EDITION , 21 SPEED, CROMOLY 4130 FRAME. BIKE FOLDS EASILY BY PULLING UP THE SEAT POST. CALL 386-212-7982

  7. #57
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    Ladies?

  8. #58
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    I've recently purchased one of these off craigslist real cheap, in pretty much brand new condition (though the owner wasn't a smoker anymore). Got a new seat, seatpost, and tires. Was considering updating the drivetrain to an internal hub and the front fork/stem. Does anyone know what size/type of bottom bracket it uses? Or the size of threaded front fork it uses - it has a narrow steerer tube that expands at the top to accept the quick release stem (which is slips on mine at the tightest setting. Also, I measured 130mm rear spacing, can anyone confirm this? Any idea if I might be able to fit an 135mm internal hub gear between the rear dropouts? Thanks in advance,

  9. #59
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    Sorry, I'm not a spec guy. But its always nice to hear of the imaginative ideas folks have for upgrading these. Good luck.

  10. #60
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    Takes a standard english/japanese threaded bb.

    standard 1" fork. There is an extender in the fork steerer tube that the quick release stem clamps on to. You will see a 6mm bolt down inside that holds the extender in place. Leave the stem on for leverage, loosen the recessed extender bolt about a quarter of in inch high, tap on your allen wrench since the bolt is recessed. That should loosen the wedge and it will lift out. If its rusty, shoot some wd-40 in there before you start. Clean the inside of the steerer tube, put some grease in there to prevent future rust. A normal quill stem can be installed.

    Steel frames can be respaced pretty easy. 2.5 mm on each side isn't much but it beats trying to wrestle your wheel in & out each time. Sheldon Brown has a web page on doing just this on steel frames. Also use the string method to measure progress and to make sure it's even. Don't just bend one side out 5 mm, do each side 2.5 mm to keep the wheels tracking straight. I've done many steel frames, forget it on aluminum, ti or carbon.

    Rick
    Last edited by rickpaulos; 04-30-12 at 11:00 AM.

  11. #61
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    I'd also mention some newer models/brands of IGH hubs come in different OLDs. If you haven't acquired your hub yet, you might be able to get one to match your frame. Also, some models/brands can have washers added or removed as needed. In either case, match the hub spacing to the frame before the wheel is built up so the dish is correct so the bike will track straight.

    I have a single speed freewheel on my fuji folder but I just used the original freewheel hub. I rearranged the spacers on the hub to get the chain line straight and redished the wheel as needed.

    Rick

  12. #62
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    Fuji Marlboro Folder Alert:

    Gainesville FL Craigslist:

    http://gainesville.craigslist.org/bik/2987965136.html

  13. #63
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    Picked up another yesterday.

    7 speed wheels, wheels are from a walmart schwinn.
    brake studs partially cut off so this might become a folder fixie project.


    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rickpaulos; 06-11-12 at 11:47 AM. Reason: fix llink for photo

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickpaulos View Post
    brake studs partially cut off so this might become a folder fixie project.
    If you have some 700c wheels around, and some road bike calipers, you might make it a road bike and just use road bike calipers to stop the bike...I would have done that with mine if I didn't need the 26" wheels to fit inside the suitcase to keep it under the airlines luggage limits...

  15. #65
    Junior Member Von Potter's Avatar
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    I've got one of these too, Had it as my backup city/loaner bike for a long time. Lately I had to snag some parts off it (the stem was perfect for the tandem I'm building) and I tacoed a wheel with it somehow. All in all, a pretty good bike
    Back Alley Bikes: Building custom bikes has never been so fun
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    Tons of my own creations

  16. #66
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    I just snagged one from the basement of Neighborhood Bike Works's Bikery in South Philadelphia. The wife has been wanting a folder for a while in order to have the option to take the bus for the return leg of her 20 mile commute in case she gets tired or the weather turns nasty.

    I'm building it up with a gorgeous set of 650c road wheels, narrow ergo drops and STI brifters, XT RD and Sora FD, and nice threaded cantis, all acquired there and at a Philly swap meet. With its small frame and small wheels, it'll fit her perfectly and, as bergerandfries mentions, will fit in luggage. I think I'm going to want to replace the crankset too and get folding or quick-release pedals. I'm not sure how gracefully the drops are going to fold or if the reach is going to be too long for her, so I might have to go with flat or moustache bars and/or DIY a shorter quick-release stem.*

    It has a Fuji head badge instead of the Marlboro one, so presumably mine was bought from a bike shop:
    IMAG0227.jpg
    I'll post pics when it's done. It should be one light, compact, and fast ride.


    Quote Originally Posted by rickpaulos View Post
    It still needs a shorter and taller stem for me (and most normal proportionally sized people). I'm thinking it's going to the local frame builder for a cut and rebraze. The qr stem allows you to remove the stem & bars for easier transport. Its a unique 1-bolt stem and no other stem will take a qr seat post bolt for easy removal.
    * Yes, for Rick and everyone else who's complained about the stem being too long, not tall enough, or too heavy, but would rather not lose the QR ability by replacing the whole assembly with a regular quill, you can grab practically any 1 1/8" threadless stem you like and replace the bolts with two QR levers and even replace the stock quill component with a modern quill-to-threadless adaptor.
    Last edited by pocky; 06-17-12 at 01:32 AM.

  17. #67
    in cog neato itsmoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pocky View Post
    you can grab practically any 1 1/8" threadless stem you like and replace the bolts with two QR levers
    IME this only works well if the stem has flat surfaces on either side of the compression slot, and the stem you're using looks like it does. What brand/model is it?
    Whenever I'm down in the dumps I get a new bike. That's where I got this one.

  18. #68
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    catalog scan

    Here is a scan from the 1996 Marlboro Unlimted Catalog.

    States there were TWO sizes, 20" and 17" frames.





    "Credit travels up, blame travels down." Dilbert's Pointy Haired Boss.
    Last edited by rickpaulos; 07-13-12 at 02:49 PM.

  19. #69
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    Hey guys, new to this forum. I just picked up one of these bikes for $20. I am looking to get into trail riding (nothing extreme) and I didn't want to drop a few hundred bucks on a bike to find out if I liked it or not, so I bought this (at the time not knowing it was a folder). My question about this bike is.. If I do get into it like I feel I will, would it be worth upgrading this bike with better components or just buy a newer one and be done with it? I would mainly ride this on packed dirt/grass paths that have some rough areas and also some pavement. The frame seems to fit me pretty well so thats why I'm asking, but if this frame just isn't worth upgrading I don't want to waste the time/money when I could buy something newer.

  20. #70
    Dog is my co-pilot 2manybikes's Avatar
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    The frame is not worth it. It is also cheaper to buy a new finished bike than to buy the components and build it.
    If that one works, keep it as a back up. A working bike for $20 is still a good deal, it's nice to have if your other bike needs service, or if you need a loaner.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  21. #71
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    I upgraded the tires, cranks, saddle and handle bar on mine.
    At the minimum, the saddle is the only thing I would upgrade, as the stock one is not comfortable.

    I don't see why it isn't worth upgrading if it works and fits you well.

  22. #72
    The Dued abides... Bikedued's Avatar
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    Nope never did buy that one, but oh well. There was an 84 Trek 830 there for $40, so I bought that instead. I remembered this thread though, when this one popped up for $600 on the local CL. I almost laughed.,,,,BD

    http://lafayette.craigslist.org/bik/3191215221.html
    "WHOA!! WHOA! You are now firing a gun at your imaginary friend, near 400 gallons of NITROGLYCERINE!!" Tyler Durden

  23. #73
    Captain pocky's Avatar
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    I finally finished Little Red yesterday. My wife wanted a folder so she can take the bus and subway one way of her 15mi commute if she gets cold and/or tired. So this was my solution.

    I found the Fuji (non-Marlboro "Fuji America" headbadge, so presumably it was bought in a bike shop?) frameset at Neighborhood Bike Works in South Philly (see post #66 above). The frame and fork on these things are nice 4130 Cr-Mo, designed by Montague, with a total frame and fork weight of 7lbs. The stock kit that these came with was clearly holding them back! So I decided to build this one up as a fast tourer. The only original things on this "Marlboro" are the frame, fork, headset, seat/frame clamp, and canti guide stop!

    She is one fast, sweet ride. Too bad the frame is a little too small for me. I hope my wife appreciates the difference between this beauty and a "normal" folder!

    Here's the build:
    Drivetrain: Sora 8-speed brifters, Sora FD, Deore XT RD, black Taya chain, 165mm Bulletproof cranks with 50/36, 12-24 cluster (planning to throw on a much bigger top cog for a bailout gear)
    Brakes: Deore LX cantis with Kool Stop salmon pads
    Wheels: Bontrager Select Aero 650c (to keep the standover height low and the folded size small)
    Tires: Tufo CS33 26" Special "tubeless" tubular clinchers with sealant inside (should be able to ride these things till the treads wear through without ever flatting)
    Pedals: Plastic folding platform pedals that I got off a friend. Not sure what make, but they seem beefier and grippier than the Dahon ones I've seen before
    Saddle: WTB Leisure She
    Seatpost: Icon alloy micro-adjust
    Bars: Icon 39cm alloy
    Quill: Nashbar 1" quill to 1 1/8" theadless adapter
    Stem: CS adjustable 90mm with bolts removed and replaced with quick release skewers (used brake nuts to create a flat surface to clamp against)
    Rack: Bor Yueh Urban (attaches to both sides of the seat/folding clamp, under the quick release, and does not interfere with the fold). Should be able to strap my Nashbar Bike Bag to the top for easy bagability.

    IMGP0848small.jpgIMGP0849.jpgIMGP0840.jpgIMGP0851small.jpgIMGP0850.jpgIMGP0842.jpgIMGP0853.jpgIMGP0854.jpgIMGP0855.jpgIMGP0856.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by pocky; 09-20-12 at 02:06 PM.

  24. #74
    Senior Member DVC45's Avatar
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    Nice!
    Good job on the upgrades.

  25. #75
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    I live in NYC and am interested in having a folding bike to bring on the trains, and I see these bikes around on Craiglist a decent amount for $150 or so (the NYC used bike market is rather expensive, because bikes are in high demand with the new bike lane network). I also have a Bianchi Milano with an Alfine hub that I'm not terribly fond of the ride on that I might use as a parts source.

    A few questions:
    -How are the rack/fender eyelets?
    -Are the dropouts horizontal? Are they deep enough to tension the chain on an internal hub?
    -Is the Marlboro frame the same nice Chro-moly frame as the non-Marlboro frame?
    -Would one of these bikes be worth buying for $150 as a donor?
    -How does the bike ride on MTB trails?
    -Has anyone every flown with this bike?

    I think I'd build this bike as a combo mountain/light touring/winter bike, with the Alfine and other parts from the Milano, then loot what parts I can to convert the Milano to a singlespeed to sell it.

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