I want to get into flippin' bikes but first I need tools. So far, these tool sets are in my budget:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Home-Mechanic-Bi...DLVI%26ps%3D54
AND
http://cgi.ebay.com/BIKE-BICYCLE-HOM...d=p3286.c0.m14
I'm not sure which one is better. One does have more tools but maybe you guys can point me the right direction.
Just need tools to take the crank/bottom bracket remover to clean BB, remove cassettes (if needed), adjusting spokes, adjusting brakes, cut cables, etc. Though, I'm mostly looking for the "special tools" that bike shops charge so much on labor.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by blondetigers; 08-25-09 at 02:43 AM.
Q. What is the most popular size frame, and do you try to buy bikes in that size to flip?
Q. What sort of bikes are most in demand?
Q. What is the average price most are willing to pay for a used bike (to where it gets harder to sell a bike above this price)?
and in a completely unrelated question (too small for its own thread)....
Q. To protect a bike kept outside from rusting in the rain, is it better to cover it with a tarp or leave it uncovered; on the premise that it will dry faster uncovered, than it would covered, which might encourage humidity inside the tarp?
1) Mid 50's cm, but people comne in all sizes, so, I look quality before size.
2) Depends, right now cheaper campus bikes and, around here, disposable burningman bikes
3) Easy, $125 and over $300 it's more about detail.
If it's outside, keep it covered and off the ground.
1. 90% of what I find have either 21 inch or 23 inch. Its what people bought back in the 1980s, and it is what sells. Smaller sizes, usually 19 inch, sell even better (at higher pricing), but are hard to find. 24 inch bikes sell too. Anything larger is hard to sell, and will get a lower price.
2. Racing and touring bikes with drop handlebars are what everyone is looking for. Forget about hybrids and mountain bikes, unless you get one super cheap.
3. Buyers are looking in the $150 to $225 range around here. Buyers are looking for good brands, that came from bike shops. Above that range, the bike has to be pretty good. Buyers will pay more for touring bikes.
Depends are where you are/tricky market. The college set want beaters cheap; kids want the frames (horz drops); and older folk are searching for their long gone youth rides. Breaing even is more the norm. If you already have bike flippers in your area/most of the yard sale bikes are scooped up. If you can find bikes $50 and under; lol. Have to love what you're doing/$ takes a back seat.
+1. You need to be very savy to make good money in the $150-$225 range but it can be done.
I'm finaly figuring out one of the local flippers. Saturday afternoon I saw an older beat up Raleigh at a pawn store for $60 and passed on it. I would have had $25 and 4 hours of time into it only to have a $150 bike. Saturday night I saw it on CL for $165 in the exact same condition as it was at the pawn store. Evidently this guy is scooping up anything he can find cheap and simply posting them on CL at quick turn around prices.
High volume, low cost, no time.
WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma Campy Record; 1997 Litespeed Ultimate; 199X Basso Gap?; 1990 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 199x Nishiki Cresta GT; 1989 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 1985 Vitus 997 Campy Super record; 1972 Raleigh Professional
i usually find bikes at yardsales really cheap. say bout 5-30 bucks. i know what im looking for, and most people dont know what they are selling. the bikes i get usually need rubber, but otherwise are complete. i never sell parts out. i also look for bikes that are really neglected, but not abused. I bring them back to life. i havent gone in the hole on a single bike. made out well on most all of them. i dont calculate time spent, but i know i've gotten way quick at some of the things that might take a while at the LBS. say, for example, gruppos that are really really tarnished or even a bit rusted. i have a bench just for that stuff. ill disassemble the bike and use penetrating lube and degreasers with a wire brush or different grades of steel wool and BAM! they come back to life. grease em and reassemble. clean off the frame, maybe re-wrap the bar tape that they came with and wash the tape. build it back up and dial it in. the bikes look really clean and people notice. if u have a bike with chrome, clean it up with penatrating lube and fine steel wool, just try a spot first to make sure there isnt a clear coat that will get hazy if u take steel wool to it, and go easy as to not take off the plated finish itself. a workstand is a great investment for your time. when i clean up i have supplies organized so next time i can jump into the system ive created for workflow. i also do "flips" to trade and sometimes they end up being personal bikes. ill spend money on good neglected bikes that i know are obviously gonna clean up well and sell well. if its italian it sells quickly ive noticed. dont waste time with kids bikes or mountain bikes, as they are meant to be abused and wont be worth it. an old Schwinn World Sport, for example, can be found cheap in many conditions and are very straight forward to resurrect, they are typically reliable, and if the bike looks clean and its dialed than it wont be taking up ur space long. and biketiresdirect.com is a great source for rubber. buy tubes by the box. dont overhaul if you dont need to, but if things arent smooth than the overhaul and adjusting should be done. try to build a reputation of well working clean bikes. the locals here have recognized that i wont make a bike available if it isnt going to reinforce the reputation i have been building. i know that a lot of these bikes i wouldnt waste my time riding, but they are great for other riders getting into the game. collectibles are just that, and i dont collect, i ride. so i may spend more time on campy equipped italian steel knowing the bike should be presented in a sought after condition. i dont customize, or mix-match, or paint, or re chrome. thats up to the owner who doesnt intend to sell it. what i do doesnt take as long as one might think. you get better as u go along.![]()
Last edited by spin4130; 09-21-09 at 11:08 AM. Reason: add a pic
I think that for flipping, cleaning a bike well is almost as important as making sure everything is mechanically sound. When you are ready to post it on CL, you should also consider the marketing side. Take good creative photos with thought out backgrounds. Here are some flip photos I recently took.
May the Fold be with you
48 Rudge Whitworth Sports - 59 Schwinn Panther II - 68 26" Columbia Roadster - 79 Schwinn Spitfire 5
68 16" Graziella Tandem Folder - 73 Raleigh Twenty Folder - 89 16" Dahon Stainless Classic III Folder - 05 20" Dahon Jetstream P8 Full Suspension Folder - Dahon Mu XL Sport
- plus various bikes to flip
WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma Campy Record; 1997 Litespeed Ultimate; 199X Basso Gap?; 1990 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 199x Nishiki Cresta GT; 1989 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 1985 Vitus 997 Campy Super record; 1972 Raleigh Professional
i wouldn't go that far, but i have found that the best backdrops for photographing bikes are solid backgrounds that contrast with the color of the bike. for example, don't photograph a dark bike against a shade-tree background. likewise, don't photograph a white bike in the sun. backgrounds with complex patterns like picket fences can obscure the lines of the bike. the best photos of bikes i've seen are taken against a solid backdrop like a sheet.
i spent hours trying to get good bike pics against a "pretty" grassy/tree filled background. they usually come out poorly. now i just photograph my bikes against the side of my rather unsightly house, but the solid blue background contrasts well with most bikes.
No offense taken. I do usually try to have at least one photo with a solid backdrop, but I have had some buyers comment about the photos, so I assumed I was on the right track. I do agree that if the background is too busy, the bike gets lost.
May the Fold be with you
48 Rudge Whitworth Sports - 59 Schwinn Panther II - 68 26" Columbia Roadster - 79 Schwinn Spitfire 5
68 16" Graziella Tandem Folder - 73 Raleigh Twenty Folder - 89 16" Dahon Stainless Classic III Folder - 05 20" Dahon Jetstream P8 Full Suspension Folder - Dahon Mu XL Sport
- plus various bikes to flip
That was a cool one. Investment = $22 (Bike= $6, seat= $6, paint,grips, decals = $10)
SOLD BIKE = $140
I did have to tighten the chain after this photo. Also this is CL photos, so the size and clarity are pretty low.
Another thing I have started doing is include a pair of guppy lights for free. The LBS charges $30, but you can get them on the bay for $2/pair including shipping from Hong Kong. Just another way to sweeten and close the deal.
Last edited by kingfish254; 09-21-09 at 05:09 PM.
May the Fold be with you
48 Rudge Whitworth Sports - 59 Schwinn Panther II - 68 26" Columbia Roadster - 79 Schwinn Spitfire 5
68 16" Graziella Tandem Folder - 73 Raleigh Twenty Folder - 89 16" Dahon Stainless Classic III Folder - 05 20" Dahon Jetstream P8 Full Suspension Folder - Dahon Mu XL Sport
- plus various bikes to flip
Go with larger pictures in your postings. I use photobucket. By the way, I have a 78' Spitfire 5 set up with a messenger rack.
Last edited by curbtender; 09-21-09 at 05:26 PM.
i have a question .. for someone that has not alot of experience with bikes, but decent skill in putting things together .. would it be a good idea to try and rebuild bikes and do stuff by yourself with instruction?
and also whats a good paint to use if you wanted to strip a bike? and how should i go about doing that? as in do you need to prime or anything like that thanks
Artsy photos have their place but for selling on CL or Ebay a nive solid back drop with nothing 'interfering' with the bike is best.
All my pics are basicly the same. The 2 Colnago and Tomassini pics will give you an idea of how an odd background takes away from the bike itself:
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WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma Campy Record; 1997 Litespeed Ultimate; 199X Basso Gap?; 1990 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 199x Nishiki Cresta GT; 1989 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 1985 Vitus 997 Campy Super record; 1972 Raleigh Professional
Rule #57387: Try to buy bikes that need a minimal amount of work.
Rule #45689: Rust is bad. Very bad.
If you have decent mechanical skills start with something thats in good shape with shiney paint and no rust. A bike like that will need a basic tune-up and a good polishing. Try a few bikes like that first and work your way up. The last thing you want to do is to buy a bike that needs more parts and labor than you were anticipating.
As far as paint goes try a name brand enamal.
WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma Campy Record; 1997 Litespeed Ultimate; 199X Basso Gap?; 1990 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 199x Nishiki Cresta GT; 1989 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 1985 Vitus 997 Campy Super record; 1972 Raleigh Professional
Favorite backgound. Early AM shot, no shadows.
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WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma Campy Record; 1997 Litespeed Ultimate; 199X Basso Gap?; 1990 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 199x Nishiki Cresta GT; 1989 LeMond Maillot Jaune; 1985 Vitus 997 Campy Super record; 1972 Raleigh Professional
I've seen several notes about the karma of flipping as if it's good, bad, a sin...bottom line, there are only a few out there that have the skills to do the necessary work on a bike to make it flippable (not withstanding those out there that hunt for bargains and resell intact). I do the opposite: I buy decent, generally higher end bikes right, break them down and resell the components. I do okay--enough to feed my habit of nice bikes. When I buy a bike I tell the seller up front what I do--sometimes even sharing the spreadsheet I put together ahead of time with the estimate of what I can sell the parts for. And I tell the seller they are welcome to do the same. But most, well, all of the sellers, don't have the skills or time or place or desire to do it. And the buyers of the parts I sell seem delighted to get good parts cleaned, brought back to original specs. I believe I am a functional part of the landscape.
I have to amend my no MTB stand on flipping. There are just so many of them out there, that is what you will find at thrift stores and garage sales. If you buy right, you can maintain a decent ($100) margin on them. But you really have to buy right, as the nice ones tend to sell in the $125 to $150 price range (so do that math). I have flipped several Trek and Specialized MTBs this year.