if your anywhere near my location, and it turns out that the bike has drops, I will give you/him a pair of straight bars. Or if your not near me, pay for the shipping and they're yours.
EDIT:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott.htm
if your anywhere near my location, and it turns out that the bike has drops, I will give you/him a pair of straight bars. Or if your not near me, pay for the shipping and they're yours.
EDIT:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott.htm
Last edited by Nagrom_; 01-15-12 at 10:44 PM.
@Zephyr11 - So he wants a "fixie", but does he want a fixed gear like a real track bike which can't coast through turns and requires good foot retention to ride it correctly. Or does he want something that looks like a "fixie" but in fact has a single speed freewheel so it can be ridden like a normal geared bike ? A lot of people confuse the two types of bikes. As far as gearing, I would say something in the low 60 to low 70 gear inch range, which would equate to something like 46 x 19 to 46 x 17. That's how my street fixed gear and singlespeed (freewheel) bikes are set up. Note that if you get something with fat tires larger than 700 x 25c, then the gearing will be higher. The one tool you will need if you buy a fixed gear online is a chainwhip to remove the fixed cog and a lockring tool. You don't need to remove the cranks, and the crank arms can normaly be tightened with an 8mm hex wrench. Also, you don't need to install the headset if you buy a complete bike. The wheels will need truing, but that is no different than on any other type of bike.
Thanks Nagrom, that's super generous of you. I'll run it by him. He'd still need to pick up brakes though. BD says they include them, but I'm assuming they're hoods and drop bar brakes.
Tejano, that was my question for him too. He said he rode his friend's fixie and wants to go with that. I was slightly worried about the terminology myself, which is why I suggested the flip flop hub, but he seems to have it down.
TT,
aside from nitto track bars, i also have easton road bars so i can swap it out in case i need to get a more comfortable position for long road rides
thanks for your reply
newbie here, want to ask about my new rims
so I have a pair of DT Swiss X470 32H 29'ers rims, bought it for a cheap price (that's why I bought it LOL)
29'ers are the same diameter as the other 700c rims but in different width, am I right?!
is it recommended for fixed gear bikes?
btw, I already had Maxxis Detonator 700x23c tyre for front & Kenda KwickRoller 7000x28c tyres for rear and maybe I'll go with GranCompe (Dia-Compe) 32H track hubs
DT says min. 1.5"/38mm width for that rim.
http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/e90f3c...Datasheet.aspx
as far as suitability for fixed gear, why not? if the frame has clearance for 38mm tires, they will be great.
my bikes: http://fastwagon.blogspot.com/p/bike-gallery.html
What's up, after lurking for a while I decided to actually post something.. I recently got this bike from my uncle who passed last year. I plan on turning it into a single speed since the rsx shifters don't work as far as shifting. It's a Sekai 2400 frame with stock rims.
Would appreciate any tips!
(btw sorry for crappy phone pic)
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I'm wanting to convert my Trek 800 to a single speed. I'm looking at buying this kit to do it with
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...AID=1009378658
If I use this will I need to buy anything else for the conversion?
Hullo! So, I have an old Schwinn with forward-facing, semi-horizontal rear dropouts (no hanger), and I was thinking of turning it into a fixed gear or single-speed. I have never, ever owned either one, but fixies in particular look like a lot of fun (where there is manic devotion, there is probably also a good time to be had, see: "The Rocky Horror Picture Show").
My problem is that, since I live in an extremely hilly area, I'm not sure if I would kill myself on a fixed gear. I'm going to keep both brakes either way (the rear mostly for security blanket-type reasons), but I'm open to opinions. I'm a confident rider, and I like fast things, but I also like walking and having a working spine. Thanks, and have a Scientastic day!
There was a young fellow named Hector,
Who was fond of a launcher-erector.
But the squishes and pops
Of acute pressure drops
Wrecked Hector's hydraulic connector.
-Thomas Pynchon, Gravity's Rainbow
Seriously. If you like going fast and live in a hilly area, gears are what you want.
Okydoke then. That's what flip-flop hubs are for, eh? Deciding you want to live? I'll save the other side for visits to Ames... or Nebraska generally...
There was a young fellow named Hector,
Who was fond of a launcher-erector.
But the squishes and pops
Of acute pressure drops
Wrecked Hector's hydraulic connector.
-Thomas Pynchon, Gravity's Rainbow
hey guys i have an iro trake frame and have been riding freewheel just recently went 48-18 previously 48-16 and want some comfortable pedals and straps. deitys look cool but am i sinning putting those on a fixed bike. but they look awesome. need help and suggestions thanx
I just had to buy myself some new pedals and I found that it is all up to you. If you want heavy duty metal pedals because you're tricking then you can do that. If you want light pedals then get plastic.If you want low profile pedals that are slim because you need everything to be extremely efficient then get that. Personally, I bought a pair of pedals suggested to me by some BMX kids because they said they were heavy duty and they only cost $20.
As for toe straps, I have Origin 8 straps. They are comfy, wide, and very adjustable. The cheaper ones only come in black so if you want color you'll need to find something else or buy the more expensive ones. There are lots of choices of other straps too. It's all your preference though.
Now I have my own personal question. I was riding fixed and instead of skidding I tend to slow the rotation of my rear wheel by slowing the spin of my legs as well as braking with my front brake. This last week I somehow popped my lockring off and spun my cog off the threaded hub. Because of finals week I just switched it to SS and haven't been able to give it a look.
How likely is it that I destroyed the hub?
Is there a better way to brake? I feel like I am putting less torque on it than skidding would.
Is there a hub that isn't threaded?
Thought this was a really good picture for bike reach, geometry, and fit.
bikereach.jpg
figured its best to post in here rather start a new thread
Any advice on the best out of these 3:
I'm leaning towards the Charge but not sure
ta
im a noob to the site. whats a good website to purchase fixie bikes
www.bikesdirect.com
Mercier Kilo TT Pro
Just ordered a cog and a lockring. I've been riding SS for the past few years, commuting mostly and tooling around town, running errands, etc. FG scares me poopless but I really want to give it a try. I plan to start out with the cog on the flipside of my hub and just using it for learning and experimenting but not for commuting (for now, for safety's sake).
I've looked around the web some and read Sheldon Brown's article on FG road biking but is there any other good reading about the dangers of FG riding? I want to do my homework and be prepared before I just launch into it. I imagine I'll be doing some crashing at some point, which is fine.
Dropping your chain, or catching your shoelaces can be really hazardous on a fixed gear. Also pedal strike during sharp turns is a concern. But what else is going to come up that I haven't thought of?
For example, sometimes I bunny hop over small obstacles in the road that would really jar me (uneven road, etc [if it's a significant dif]). I'm thinking that could be very bad on a FG, right? If the rear wheel leaves the ground and has no more road resistance... seems like I would spin out in the air quickly, but maybe not.
I don't want to bombard you all with my noob ?'s but I do have concerns - is there any more required reading beyond sheldon browns? Mostly looking for safety info and do's and donts. Thanks.
It just takes some adjustment, you'll figure it out. Pedal strike can be an issue, as can toe overlap, and stuff getting caught in your chain, but you just become more conscious of these things. Considering you run brakes(front and rear, I'm assuming), there's really no danger to you riding fixed gear. Give it a few days and you'll know whether or not you like it.
Thank you sir.
Follow up question - I have never used toe straps. I just use MKS Sylvan pedals. They accept straps but I just never wanted to have my foot attached to the pedal like that (in case of emergency). From what I've read, it seems like it's much more dangerous to NOT use straps while riding FG, or did I get that wrong?
*Also, I'm thinking of removing the rear brake if I dig FG. I'm thinking that a solid front brake combined with the FG ability to "slow your roll" should be more than enough for a quick stop if needed. Thoughts?