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  1. #1
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    what is the best bike lock for my new commuter.

    ive kinda been searching the web to find out what people are using for locks. I think this forum might help me out the best though. I have just completed my new commuter bike and i have taken every precaution that i can to try to dissuade thieves. I wanted to build a higher end bike because well i like to build and i like really nice bikes. but now i just need to find out what you guys are using for u-locks. I bought the pitlock group for my bike. so my front wheel, headset/fork, and seat post are locked up with pitlocks. i opted not to buy the pitlock for my rear wheel because i am using an Alfine hub and it requires the axle nut type locks that cost $100 for 2 nuts.. so i think with the U-lock i will have my rear wheel covered, along with my frame of course, and i am even thinking of running it through my chainring as well to save my driveside crank arm from being a target. now my non drive crank arm is wide open as it only uses a crankbolt to cinch it to the square taper BB. not sure what to do about that yet.

  2. #2
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    these are the best ulocks on the market. keep in mind that a coreless angle grinder can still cut threw them in ~5mins. the chain one is over 10pounds, the other one is about 5pounds. and they are also pricey, but you can get them on ebay from 65-100bucks shipped.

    if you want something lighter, keep in mind its not as sequre then the Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 is right up your alley. it is lighter and cheaper, say 45bucks on ebay. its extremly popular because of the weight and size.


    even with pitlock i would still carry 2 ulocks. if you are really parriod about seat and crank arm then use a cable lock threw them. if you live in a palce where you think people walk around with crankpullers and wrenches then keep your bike locked up indoors at all times. keep in mind with ulocks what you are locking too. most won't fit threw street light post or trees, or you might not be able to lock up rear wheel, with fenders to every object.

    check out this page on how to lock up your bike:
    http://www.mechbgon.com/lock/index.html
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
    real cyclist can bunny hop potholes on a recumbent.

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  4. #3
    Subjectively Insane MilitantPotato's Avatar
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    Buy hardened steel, the 45 dollar jobs work (help against bolt cutters, which most kids use.)
    Get two, also get something for the seat, or take it with you (better option.)

    The $200+ chains take 30 seconds to cut with power tools, U locks about the same. No-one will interrupt a thief either.

    If you have a bike nice enough to take, it will be taken by people who do it for a living, and use power tools. If it's worth more then $400, don't leave it outside more then 2-3 minutes, even with Two U-Locks and a chain.

    The only thing good locks prevent is someone just looking for an easy score.

    Or, uglify your bike, make the components look like crap (damage them cosmetically) and paint the frame in neon green. My uncle commuted on a nicer bike for years doing this, parked it in down town St. Louis.

  5. #4
    Senior Member ratell's Avatar
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    Advice that comes up frequently is to use a combination of U locks and a good cable. I don't know if it's true, but what people say is that it takes two different tools which decreases the chances any one thief will have both with them.

  6. #5
    Temporary Earthling supramax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ratell View Post
    Advice that comes up frequently is to use a combination of U locks and a good cable. I don't know if it's true, but what people say is that it takes two different tools which decreases the chances any one thief will have both with them.
    That's how I do it. I also have my quick releases locked. The location of where you lock your bike is important, too.
    I had a dentist appointment last week and I'd previously scanned the area for places to lock my bike. There weren't any that I liked, so I ran instead of biking. It's only 8 miles.



    I'm thinking of having this turned into a stick on label for the top tube:
    We are such stuff as dreams are made on.

  7. #6
    Senior Member Commando303's Avatar
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    Browse the Web sites of Kryptonite and OnGuard. The heavier and bulkier, the stronger the lock is.

  8. #7
    Survival of the Fitest TheDL's Avatar
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    It should be a balance of what the "real" threat level is, your ability/willingness to carry how heavy/cumbersome a lock, and the value of the bike to you and replacement cost.

    I will offer a way to do the Kryptonite NY Chain for a lot less though.

    Get this from Amazon w/ free shipping:
    [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Trimax-THEX33-THEX-Super-Chain/dp/B000W0KU4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1248630333&sr=8-1"]Trimax THEX33 Chain $26.04[/ame]


    Plus this from Abuslocks.com
    Abus Discus 20/70 w/ PLUS keyway $34 shipped


    All for $60.04

    There's enough space on the last link to put one end of a 4' Kryptoflex cable on as well. So lasso your front wheel, thread the other end on the last link and slap your lock on there and you're pretty safe.

    All my years on these bike websites and Craigslist I've never seen a post of someone having a crank stolen. Most thieves, if they're going to invest the time, are going to take the entire bike i would think.
    Last edited by TheDL; 07-26-09 at 12:15 PM. Reason: addition of cable
    ...take your protein pills and put your helmet on...
    2009 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, 1983 Univega Nuovo Sport, GT Team LOTTO
    Looking for GT Course ~ 58cm PM Me!

  9. #8
    Subjectively Insane MilitantPotato's Avatar
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    Wheels and saddles are a common theft item. I'm not sure if they make money or if people are just being asses. If someone has an angle grinder, they have a set of cable cutters or trimmers, which clip all cable locks in less then 5 seconds.

    My only point is money spent on locks doesn't equate to bike security. Don't spend 500 bucks and think your bike is safe, it still takes less then a minute to defeat a chain+u lock, regardless of the quality.

    Slightly better locks will deter bolt cutters, but not grinders. The only defense there is, is to not lock a decent bike up outside.

  10. #9
    Mrs. DataJunkie Luddite's Avatar
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    back in the day when I had my old rusty MTB locked up to a post in my old backyard, a crackhead entered my backyard, with a pair of stolen hedge clippers and went to town sawing on my cable lock. My dog sensed the waste-of-skin in the yard and started snarling/growling. I went running to the door figuring it was a racoon after the garbage can again, nope, was a crackhead with viciously long hedgeclippers. He saw me and booked. He got about halfway through the cable lock in just a few minutes. Hedge clippers can be used to defeat a cable lock, available to be stolen from any shed/gardening store.


    Da mihi basia mille. <3

  11. #10
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    In my experience, a prepared thief is, let's face it, fairly rare when we're talking bikes, unless you have an uber-expensive rig that the guy has been casing.

    The long and short of it is, any decent $20-$50 U-Lock and/or cable will act as a deterrent for all thieves of opportunity who just happen by. If they see a lock, they'll move onto the next bike that doesn't have one. But if someone really wants your rig, and has at least two brain cells to rub together, they'll get it sooner or later.

    Your best bet is to pick and choose lock-up places wisely. Is it a nice area? Is it a very public area with lots of people walking by? Can you find a place where a beat cop/security guard is normally stationed within eyeshot? Just use your head, and any decent lock, and you should be fine.

    There's probably one thing that will help you more than anything: dress your bike down as much as possible. Sure, neat rims, carbon fiber, and disk breaks look sweet and perform well, but they also draw unwanted attention. If your bike looks more like a $50 department store special as opposed to a $5000 full custom, the thief is much more likely to move on. They're not going to lug or ride stolen goods half way across town unless they see a definite profit in it.
    Last edited by JJBlanche; 07-26-09 at 02:49 PM.

  12. #11
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    thank you everybody for all the very well taken input.. it is obvious that there are alot of true enthusiasts here in bike forums. I cant wait to get the very last bits and pieces for my new commuter so I can do just that...COMMUTE!! I live and work in a great community so theft is not as much of a concern, but i would be a fool to trust any town just because it looks nicer than downtown LA. We recently sold our second car and that is why i am building a commuter bike. i have been using my mtn bike for a few weeks and its fun but sure is a tank, and 5.5 incehs of suspension really defeats all my pedal power. Im looking forward to this new build and cant wait to post pics of my new rig as soon as it is complete... be on the lookout for my new Fisticuff build pics in the "post your commuter" forum..
    thanks again folks.
    oh and by the way i will be going with the Kryptonite evolution mini...

  13. #12
    aka Timi imi's Avatar
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    I hate leaving my bike outside... but when I do have an evening in town, or whatever, the police station's bike rack is a good place...

  14. #13
    Senior Member djetelina's Avatar
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    Forget using ANY cables; when bike thieves go shopping, they come w/ bolt cutters and any cable will cut like hot butter.

    U-locks (which are really just oversized padlocks) are better than cables, but can be defeated by a car jack or long pipe to provide a leveraged attack. U-locks can also be a pain to carry.

    Case-hardened security chain is the best for high-risk areas. A specialty lock (like the monobloc style padlock) is best (the discus lock can be difficult to lockup a chain with; since u have to hold the chain w/ one hand, hold the lock w/ another hand and turn the key with your 3rd hand). There is a special on case-hardened chain w/ monobloc lock on BikeRegistry at present, only 35 bucks, inclusive of delivery.
    Last edited by djetelina; 07-26-09 at 05:02 PM.

  15. #14
    Senior Member FlatSix911's Avatar
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    The best security available is to take your bike with you ... I never leave mine unattended ... even at work

  16. #15
    Come here often? <wink> exile's Avatar
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    The Kryptonite Fughedabouttit's are usually very hightly rated. However it seems they are also very heavy. And if a professional bike thief wants your bike, they will get it regardless of what you use.

    With that said I just bought an Onguard Bulldod Mini 7. It was light, cheap, and is relatively decent defense wise. I figured if someone comes along with an angle grinder, they're going to get the bike whether I paid $80 or $18 dollars for the lock.

    Also take the advice of other posters about 1) knowing the crime rate in your area. 2) "LOCK" the bike. 3) Attach the bike to something secure in a well lit and hopefully high traffic area. 4) Don't leave your bike unattended to for too long. 5) Don't have a routine or specific location if you can help it. 6) Do try and hide some of the "sexy" appeal of your bike.

    Also thanks djetelina, I'm going to look into that bike registry lock .

  17. #16
    Senior Member alhedges's Avatar
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    Is there any chance you would be allowed to bring your bike inside?

    Evo mini is a good lock, but it's too small for my purposes.

  18. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by exile View Post
    And if a professional bike thief wants your bike, they will get it regardless of what you use.
    +1

    I think the most important thing to bear in mind above and beyond everything is that bike locks act as a deterrent. In other words, if Joe criminal is walking by and sees a bike without a lock, his shady demeanor kicks into high gear, and he almost has to take it, just to satisfy his klepto urges. But if the same bike has any kind of lock whatsoever, it'll take him a split second to realize he's not equipped for the kill, nor is said kill really worth his effort to bag (unless we're talking an obviously expensive and exotic ride).

    In my years as a commuting student, etc, I never heard of a single person who used a lock having their bike stolen. Hell, I used the cheapest, spaghetti-thin cable lock going, and my several hundred dollar ride was never touched. On the other side of the coin, my roommate never used a lock, figuring no one would want his $50 K-Mart special. Surprise, surprise, one day his bike was taken right out of the rack, while my expensive ride remained chained up just a few bays down. True story. It's laughable now, but definitely something to learn from.

    The point being is that people who would not normally consider stealing a bike will jump on an opportunity if it's presented to them. And the worst thing is, they'll probably get the bike home, realize they can't do a damn thing with it, and throw it away. So at the end of the day, that $15 lock is just as good as the $50, $100, $200 variant. As others have mentioned, if someone is out there with the specific purpose of ripping off bikes and they want yours, they'll get it if its parked down some shady ally, lock or no lock. Bear in mind, though, that thieves who specifically target bikes are a rare breed, and they know what they're looking for. So unless your ride is 1K plus, don't worry about your lock being defeated.

    Keep it high vis, decent neighborhood if possible, always locked when unattended, and you'll be okay.

    As an aside, here's a decent lock setup that gives you a range of locking options: Bulldog U-Lock + Cable. In the past, I've found that a U-Lock alone often doesn't have the length or versatility to lock up everywhere I need to lock up. For example, sometimes a tree is all I have available to me. The U-Lock alone obviously won't do it, but with the cable you're set. Granted, it should only be used with the cable when absolutely necessary, and only then in a high-visibility/very public area.
    Last edited by JJBlanche; 07-27-09 at 03:00 AM.

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