$2000 Orbea vs. $2700 Trek. Orbea is a very reputable company. There is no reason to think the Orbea frame will be more likely to fail than the Trek.
$2000 Orbea vs. $2700 Trek. Orbea is a very reputable company. There is no reason to think the Orbea frame will be more likely to fail than the Trek.
^ agreed but i would rather rely on user-ratings of the orbea diem. there is only 1 review of the bike that i found online which is why i am heistant. even if it is quality, i'd rather see a bunch of favorable reviews of it before putting $2k into it....
ps, the trek 7.9 (not the 7.7) is an all-carbon (txt carbon) frame. that material is also used on their higher end (but on the lower side of the scale) madone road/race bikes which is why i trust them wholeheartedly.
i saw the diem in person and will be test riding one this upcoming weekend. it does look really good though but, again, i am trying hard not to buy something that just looks new and shiny and pretty.
the shop i went to was building a smaller frame diem and the guy building it told me to hold the handle bar.. man... i could not believe it... the entire bar seriously weight as much as a pen...... my jaw was on the floor and i felt like my eyes were playing tricks on me ^_^
2009 Trek FX 7.2 (Blue) -- SOLD!
2010 Trek FX 7.7 (White) -- SOLD!
2011 Trek FX 7.3 (White) -- Haven't sold it yet! haha
As I've only seen very high end Orbeas here in the USA, I kind of think of them as a top quality bicycle, while Trek makes lots of cheap bikes. I've never ridden either brand, much less either bike, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I think the Orbea would be as reliable as a Trek but there is always a chance of a failure. I think both companies will stand behind their product warranty if the cause is from defective construction.
Something else for your consideration.
http://www.pinarello.com/ita/treviso_red.php
Have you test ridden the 7.5? We've got a 7.2 and 7.5 in the garage and they are very different bikes.
Orbea does make a high quality bike but their distribution and service may not be at par with what you would get with a bigger company like Trek or Specialized.
A carbon hybrid would be lighter but you are still going to be limited by your riding position as the biggest obstacle to overcome when you want to go fast is wind resistance.
When I switched from flat bars to drop bars on my hybrid and went with lighter and better wheels my speed picked up enough that I could hang with roadies on some very brisk group rides.
A cross bike would also be a good option... I am seeing more and more cross bikes being used as commuters and tourers and with the right setup these will be nearly as fast as most road bikes.
"A carbon hybrid would be lighter but you are still going to be limited by your riding position as the biggest obstacle to overcome when you want to go fast is wind resistance."
True, but he is looking for the fastest bike that will allow him to ride in his preferred position.
Have you checked out Marin bikes?
http://www.marinbikes.com/2009/us/bi...series_alp.php
A friend of mine has one of their bikes. They are nice and fast.
I have a Marin Mill Valley, but OP needs something better than that. The carbon Marin hybrid is $2730. Hey, do you suppose carbon fiber hybrids are for people with too much money and not enough common sense? Just an idea that occurred to me.
Thanks for the link fatboy. Just checked out the Marin Mill Valley.
Ride like a teen machine
gmsdc - you are right - that's exactly what they are for - ppl with too much $.... i agree 100%... which is why i am again leaning towards the 7.7........ i mean, the 7.7 is still quite pricey but i went to an awesome dealer over the weekend that gave me a quote of $1,770 for a 2010 7.7 fx.... that's $200 off of MSRP and i think i can talk him down...... i might go to him with $1600 in cash and tell him take it or leave it.... if he says he wants more, i'll simply leave.
thanks sixty fiver and gmsdc. yes, i am well aware that the upright position will hinder speed. i am WELL AWARE of that since 45 ppl on this forum have told me so :-D
at the end of todays workday, i am leaning towards the 7.7................
2009 Trek FX 7.2 (Blue) -- SOLD!
2010 Trek FX 7.7 (White) -- SOLD!
2011 Trek FX 7.3 (White) -- Haven't sold it yet! haha
I really think that the best option for speed / comfort would be a cross bike and with cross levers and a little higher bar height you can still maintain a more upright and heads up position with quick access to brakes.
The riding position would be be more aerodynamic and if one retained the drop bars it offers up more hand positions and gives you the ability to get really low when circumstances allow.
This is about as versatile a set up as one can get and they do make some beautiful cross bikes in your price range.
A Kona Jake the Snake lists for $1300.00
Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 08-17-09 at 03:11 PM.
That's not true. A chain will last a minimum of 1000 miles. Many people get at least 2000 miles. You usually can go through 2-3 chains before you have to worry about the rear. Cranksets can last 20,000 miles.Originally Posted by rumrunn6
You're just trying to start an argument to show how smart you are.
I picked up about 3 mph average going from a Trek 7500 to a Trek 7.6fx, the fx is a lot faster everywhere. The fx has 700x28 tires vs. the 700x35 tires on the old bike, and runs 120 psi vs. 80 psi, that seems to help a lot with rolling speed.
Jarel
2009 Voodoo Limba CX
Are you sure a 28C tire should be inflated to 120psi? Most 28C's I've seen specify 90 to 100psi.
I got back into riding this year (50 years old), bought a 7.2 fx...added Conti Ultra Gatorskins 28s run at 100psi, added clipless pedals and am averaging 15-17mph on rides of 20-75 miles. The combination of the 2 add-ons made a considerable difference.
Yeah, they're Bontrager Race Lite Hardcase tires, says 120psi. max on the side of the tire, so I've been running them from 100-120psi.
Jarel
2009 Voodoo Limba CX
Value that dealers assistance, service and presence... I know a good deal is nice to brag about but service is SO MUCH a part of the deal/ownership experience. My bike shop knows me by name, ALWAYS takes care of me when walking in the door or stops to answer my questions. They fit my bike to me, and re-fit it 2 additional times as i "grew" into my ride... Don't cheap out your bike shop.
Read this entire thread, you need to buy a flat bar road bike dude. With proper fitting and geometry on the newer bikes- your selling yuorself short on this hybrid thing. GET a road bike!
There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
Ansel Adams
Raliegh Passage 4.0
Specialized Sequoia Elite
While the 7.7 is perfect for me....I tend to agree that you (the OP) should put some consideration into the road bike w/flat bars option if speed is your main criteria.Read this entire thread, you need to buy a flat bar road bike dude. With proper fitting and geometry on the newer bikes- your selling yuorself short on this hybrid thing. GET a road bike!
The bars on the 7.7 will open you up like a sail as previously stated. Pedaling into a headwind on the 7.7 is great for training and building endurance....but I wouldn't want to do it for very long.
2010 Carl Strong custom Ti road bike
2011 Trek 7.9 FX
1990 Trek 970 Hardtail
More expensive bikes can do a lot of things, but they can't repeal the laws of physics -
- Your speed is limited by air resistance
- Air resistance is determined by your position on the bike
- If you don't flatten out (or become much stronger!) then you won't go any faster
I would suggest Areo Bars but that is stating the obvious.
Hybrid) Trek FX 7.2
Road bike) Specialized Secteur Elite
Mountain bike) Marin Bobcat trail
Founding member of the Hybrid Forum
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
I have thoughts
Charlie
When my mission for-the-day is going fast and working on cadence, I leave my hybrid behind and take out my vintage PUCH intermediate-racer. With a 12-25T Miche cassette and vintage 1982 Campagnolo SR 42-52T cranks - this would leave my hybrid in the weeds.
Always use the right tool for the job.
This would be pointless. Why do you imagine otherwise?
And why would things be different on a racing frame with the same rider position?The bars on the 7.7 will open you up like a sail as previously stated. Pedaling into a headwind on the 7.7 is great for training and building endurance....but I wouldn't want to do it for very long.
Otoh, if it is just the ***width*** of the bars on a hybrid, a few minutes with a $10 pipecutter or a vice and hacksaw will chop them down - they should be about shoulder width for general road riding without heavy panniers or a trailer.
It's doubtful that a rider who won't switch to a less upright frame will use aero-bars. It would be pretty illogical of him if he would!
Another thing to keep in mind - Niagara Bicycle has a set of Origin 8, bolt on, mini-drops, which can be added to flat type bars for more hand positions, and help getting more aero. Less than $20.
They go on just like bar ends, just facing down, and swept back. Just like mini drops. Flop your stem, and get 'em even lower - if that's your thing. It would be easy, and quick, to flop the stem, at your whim, which would change your hand/body positions, by several inches.
My next order from them just might include a set.http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=15300
Last edited by Wanderer; 08-19-09 at 07:05 AM. Reason: link
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