Removing, Overhauling, and Installing Pedals
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Removing, Overhauling, and Installing Pedals
I just ordered some new MKS touring pedals. I've never done any work on pedals before so I'm really excited to remove my old All-City track pedals (too tiny!), overhaul my new MKS pedals, and install them. I've done a bit of searching and have found a few good resources. I just wanted to make a post that gathers all the pertinent information that I've found into one place for future searchers. Hopefully, I can just save someone a little time.
The Park Tool website has an article about pedal removal and installation. Bicycle tutor also has a video on replacing pedals.
For the overhauling I've found a MKS pedal overhauling guide by Panthers007 in an old thread and "How to repack your pedals, especially if they are MKS Sylvans" by queerpunk in another. (Thanks Panthers007 and queerpunk!)
If you have anything to add about working on pedals please add it below. Thanks!
The Park Tool website has an article about pedal removal and installation. Bicycle tutor also has a video on replacing pedals.
For the overhauling I've found a MKS pedal overhauling guide by Panthers007 in an old thread and "How to repack your pedals, especially if they are MKS Sylvans" by queerpunk in another. (Thanks Panthers007 and queerpunk!)
If you have anything to add about working on pedals please add it below. Thanks!
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Has anyone bothered to buy a MKS Sylvan Dust Cap Tool? Is it easy to get the dust cap off by another means?
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Why do you feel you have to overhaul new pedals?
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They have enough grease inside to last a few years.
You can get the dustcap off with a large pair of pliers or pipe-wrench pliers but be very gentle, they are just plastic.
I adjust them using two small wrenches and needle nosed pliers to turn the cone just so.
You can get the dustcap off with a large pair of pliers or pipe-wrench pliers but be very gentle, they are just plastic.
I adjust them using two small wrenches and needle nosed pliers to turn the cone just so.
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Or just buy a new set of cheapo $20 pedals every couple years when your old pedals need to be serviced. It's not like a $100+ set of clipless pedals that are really worth servicing.
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Every thread I've seen on these particular pedals recommends repacking them right out of the box. Plus, when I'm done, I'll know how to overhaul pedals.
These are fairly inexpensive pedals. I think if I've got pedals that I like, then they are pedals "worth servicing." It seems really wasteful to me to throw out a pair of pedals if all I have to do to keep them working good is to open them up, clean and grease them. I made this thread for people who, like me, want to figure out how to overhaul their pedals. I think there are probably a lot of people who will search this forum for info on how to do it, not because they have $100+ pedals to work on, but because they enjoy working on their bikes.
These are fairly inexpensive pedals. I think if I've got pedals that I like, then they are pedals "worth servicing." It seems really wasteful to me to throw out a pair of pedals if all I have to do to keep them working good is to open them up, clean and grease them. I made this thread for people who, like me, want to figure out how to overhaul their pedals. I think there are probably a lot of people who will search this forum for info on how to do it, not because they have $100+ pedals to work on, but because they enjoy working on their bikes.
#7
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Can't help you much with these specific pedals. But a hint for adjusting the cone tension is to have a dental pick like 90 tool that you can use for reaching under the double flat washer that sits between the outer cone and the locking nut. To use this you loosen the locking nut then reach down past the locking nut and anti rotation washer to ease the cone in or out. Then tighten the locking nut and test for correct preload. It's a very fussy bit of work to ease it out a hair then tighten than go back and forth a bunch of times but I've never found a better way. You need to do it this way because the cone is hidden down under the locknut and anti rotation washer which makes it impossible to get in there. So you're left with trial and error to get the right preload that ensures a slop free but not "coggy" setup.
There's different caps for every style of pedal. Just fake it once you know which style it is. You don't need to clean and repack that often anyway. It'll be years before you have to go into the bearings again.
There's different caps for every style of pedal. Just fake it once you know which style it is. You don't need to clean and repack that often anyway. It'll be years before you have to go into the bearings again.
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Those of us with those MKS pedals like to open them up and add some grease - they are packed a little on the dry side. They are also adjusted pretty tight when you first get them.
I think the pedal cap tool is a good idea because it makes it very easy to remove/replace and tighten down the end caps. Those caps are little aluminum pieces that you will definitely damage with pliers or wrenches. With the pedal cap wrench you can safely whip them off and on in seconds and then tighten them down properly. They will get lost if you don't have them tight.
I think the pedal cap tool is a good idea because it makes it very easy to remove/replace and tighten down the end caps. Those caps are little aluminum pieces that you will definitely damage with pliers or wrenches. With the pedal cap wrench you can safely whip them off and on in seconds and then tighten them down properly. They will get lost if you don't have them tight.
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Yes - they need to be opened, greased, and adjusted. They tend to come bone-dry and torqued-down way too tight. Many people say they are horrible pedals and threw them out. When I ask a few questions - they invariably say they didn't do this. And that's the reason.
People used to overhaul pedals. It was routine maintenance. I wonder where we saw this necessary routine discarded (along with very nice pedals), and replaced it with complaining.
People used to overhaul pedals. It was routine maintenance. I wonder where we saw this necessary routine discarded (along with very nice pedals), and replaced it with complaining.
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I think the pedal cap tool is a good idea because it makes it very easy to remove/replace and tighten down the end caps. Those caps are little aluminum pieces that you will definitely damage with pliers or wrenches. With the pedal cap wrench you can safely whip them off and on in seconds and then tighten them down properly. They will get lost if you don't have them tight.
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MKS Pedals
I though I was the only one that was doing this.I did this to a new set of MKS I got a while back to me they was a little to dry.So I have a needle I that I use to put grease in with.But next time they need service I will take them apart this will be very easy to do with the tools I have here.The way my wife looks at it if I don't have the tools for the job then they may not make them lol.I do spend a lot of money just for tools I may not use much but when I do need them I have them and no I don't people use my tools any longer I have lost a few good tools this way.But they can use them if I am around but I do keep my eye on them while they use them if I see them start to use it the wrong way I stop them before they break my tool.Thats why I want let any tool out of my site.
Many thanks to the person that let us know how to take them apart.
Many thanks to the person that let us know how to take them apart.
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Many of the MKS pedals don't have the serrated dust-caps (end-caps). These come with a push-in plastic plug. To remove this, slide a thin screwdriver, or similar, as best you can between this cap and the body of the pedal. Then pry it up. It may leave a mark (gasp!) - but it works just fine.
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The MKS Sylvan dustcaps are actually aluminum, not plastic, and are threaded, not press-fitted. The threading and the serrated edge are identical to Campagnolo's classic dustcap, and any dustcap tool designed to work with Campy dustcaps will fit the MKS Sylvan. Artisan Tool & Die made one (double-ended, to fit KKT "Pro-Ace" dustcaps on the other end), and of course Campagnolo made one. There may be others out there.
For $7 why wouldn't you get one? The first time you trash a dustcap using pliers you'll wish you had.
For $7 why wouldn't you get one? The first time you trash a dustcap using pliers you'll wish you had.
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Has anyone bothered to buy a MKS Sylvan Dust Cap Tool? Is it easy to get the dust cap off by another means?
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I actually have the Campagnolo pedal-cap tool for their old Records. It also fits the MKS Sylvan pedals. And the Campy-tool only cost me $5.00 back in 1984. I simply HAD to have a Campagnolo tool in my collection - and this was the cheapest.
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I saw that Ben's Cycle had a NOS Campagnolo dust cap wrench for $28!
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The serrations on the Sylvan dust cap are tiny and you will crush them the first time you put pliers or a crescent wrench on them. Do you want to guess how I found this out?
The MKS wrench is an elegant little tool that pops them right off and then allows you to torque them on properly. Unless you have the vintage Campy tool you really need to get this. Those touring pedals are excellent and there is no point in defacing them the first day you get them.
The MKS wrench is an elegant little tool that pops them right off and then allows you to torque them on properly. Unless you have the vintage Campy tool you really need to get this. Those touring pedals are excellent and there is no point in defacing them the first day you get them.