For shifters and cables (not drivetrain) I use silicone spray for winter lube. It doesn't gum up in the very cold.
I'd add to that if you use clipless, relube the cleats. I'm currently trying to get my cleats off my old shoes so i can put them on my new lake boots.-Repack your bottom bracket, headset, and hubs in the fall.
-Lube your cables weekly, after lubing, dab a glob of grease at each cable housing end.
-Dont forget to lube your gear shifters and brake levers.
-Lightly spray lube on the outside of your derailers, hubs, bottom bracket, seat post, quick release levers and any other exposed metal before each ride.
I've had a problem with frozen thumbs at below-freezing temps. I wear Saucony running gloves as liners under ski mittens, and usually my hands are fine. But, we've been having windy 0 degree nights (I ride home from work at 11pm), and by the time I make it home (6 miles) my thumbs are painfully cold.
To solve this wind issue, I cut a hole in the bottom corner of a couple 1 gallon plastic ziplock bags and slipped them over my handlebars. The bar ends on the mountain bike help keep the baggies in the right position since I have those bar ends that make an almost 90 degree angle out in front of the brakes.
Essentially, this is a poor mans poggie and REALLY cuts down on wind chill on your hands! I'll take a few pictures when I get home tonight.
Put a few drops of cycling oil in the cable housing going into your rear derailluer. Do this occasionally. It will work itself down quickly. It will help you shift in frigid temps.
If your riding in frigid temperatures. Get good gear. It's worth the comfort.
Consider these. http://www.onlygloves.com/winter-glo...m#ReviewHeader
Okay, here are some pics of the frostbite fightin' baggies, as promised! And obviously I would be wearing gloves when my hand is in the baggie.
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2008 Specialized Sirrus - road/drop bars w/ fenders and racks. commuter/tourer
2008 Marin Larkspur - mainly the wifes bike, but also my "dog excercising" bike
199? GT Aggressor - MTB / winter commuter beast
1983 Trek 500 fixie - my fun bike / bar crawler / warm weather commuter
+1 ziplock pogies
I find that when it warms up, the pogies trap moisture, so if you're riding without gloves they give you a clammy feeling when they stick to back of your hands. Wearing a light glove works great. They're good for rain, because soggy wet gloves are no fun, either. I wrapped packing tape over the hole where the cabling passes thru, and that keeps the bag from continuing to rip open wider. I roll up the mouth of the bag to make it easier to place my hands on the bars and it helps shape them open.
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# http://blog.bitratchet.com
I havent found anything that works really well, I use wheel bearing grease. It will gob up in the real cold though.
Another tip, dont try to wash your bike when its below freezing... Or just after it warmed up from a below freezing night and the metal on the bike is really cold. I tried to clean the dirt off my bike the other day with soap and water, I couldnt dry it quick enough, it kept freezing to the metal.
Does anyone have a tip to keep freezing fog from collecting on your glasses?
-Early 90's(maybe late 80's?) specialized hardrock, touring setup
-2000 specialized stump jumper, trail fun
**Bike Saddle - The Biggest Pain In Your Butt (would really love your comments, ratings and reviews on Brooks Touring saddles and other saddles) :)
i like using a 5 speed 20" rear rim during winter so i can keep my feet on the ground on the really icy days. plus it moves your weight back. i also make sure my tires are at least 35psi because if they get too low i end up just spinning my tires more than i move.
Good howto on winterizing an extracycle: http://www.webikeeugene.org/index.ph...our-xtracycle/
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# http://blog.bitratchet.com
Gloves and toe covers! Thatll help with the hands and cold toes!
On really sloppy days, I spray the underside of the downtube, BB and chainstays with Pam cooking spray. I give the underside of the fenders a good spritz, too, helps keep them from icing up and rubbing on the tire. It's just vegetable oil so it's biodegradable, unlike WD40. Won't displace water at all, but the schmutz just wipes right off. Especially handy if you keep your bike locked up outside.
'71 Raleigh Super Course ("Loose Change")
'74 Raleigh Professional
'7? VeloSolex L'Etoile rando build ("Chocolate Star")
'77 Peugeot UE/O-8/10/9 mongrel
'81 Trek 616
'87 Trek 560 Pro Series
'88 Schwinn Impact ("Burning Chrome")
'92 Specialized Allez Comp
'08 Specialized Crossroads winterbike ("Icicle the Bicycle")
Check out your local salvation army for clothing. Spent $3.50 and came home with a pair of gloves, 2 hats, neck gaiter, and ear warmers.
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lil brown bat wrote:
Wow, aren't other people stupid? It's a good thing that we're so smart. Yay us.
if you have disc brakes and particularly avid elixir crs take out the brake pad retaining bolts occasionally and lightly smear with grease to stop them seizing in the caliper. Alternatively (as I had did) just throw them away and replace with split pins. If the bolts seize in the caliper (which one of mine did) you might have to throw the brake away because drilling them out is not so easy as the caliper body is soft aluminium while the bolt is very hard steel. In my case I managed to cut the bolt up with a dremel and slot the head to get the bolt out but it was a close thing.
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
A split pin? aka a cotter pin? i don't think that provides enough clamping force...? Maybe an m6 anchor bolt?
I was referring to the brake pad retaining bolt- this doesn´t exert any clamping force at least on my avid elixirs- it just goes through the hole in the brake pads and stops them exiting the brake- some brakes, e.g. at least one model of Shimano LX, have a split pin here as standard (albeit usually the lower end brakes).
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
Here area few things I've learned:
1. Carry an extra layer to put on in case of a mechanical, yours or someone else's
2. Keeping your legs warm is key to keeping your feet warm
3. Metal cleats conduct heat away from the bottom of your feet, the hardest part to keep warm. Plastic cleats conduct less and are noticably more comfortable.
I am not sure if this has been mentioned, probably has, but I saw someone the other day sporting zip ties to ride through the snow..
diy-winter-biking-tie-wraps-photo-1.jpg
Trek 3700- MIA
Giant-Revel 1- now has rack and panniers
Giant Anthem 2- year rounder
Living car free for 22 years (my whole life)
MOST MILES PER WEEK: 210 / MOST MILES PER DAY: 109.1 / POUNDS LOST: PRICELESS ;-)
Cycling Videos and more...
If you lock your bike up outside bring a lighter with you so you can get your bike unlocked. Instead of haveing to cut the lock or break a key off inside the lock.![]()
Trek 3700- MIA
Giant-Revel 1- now has rack and panniers
Giant Anthem 2- year rounder
Living car free for 22 years (my whole life)
Plasti Dip your cycling shoes to keep your feet toasty and dry! Removal is easy as you can peal it off, or rub your thumb over it until it starts to fall apart. A good coating will last a while before you need to remove it and redo it. It is only like a few dollars at your local hardware store and comes in many different colors.