Rim Width for Clinchers
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Rim Width for Clinchers
I'm building up a cross bike that'll be used mainly for training and racing. I'll probably go to tubulars next year but I'd like a multi purpose wheelset for this year.
Standard road clinchers ar 19mm wide. Tire size reccomendation for this width is 19-28mm.
I plan on using 32-35mm wide clinchers. Should I find a 21mm or 23mm rim width? Do the standard road wheels work with the 32-35mm clinchers? What is ideal?
Thanks
pazman
Standard road clinchers ar 19mm wide. Tire size reccomendation for this width is 19-28mm.
I plan on using 32-35mm wide clinchers. Should I find a 21mm or 23mm rim width? Do the standard road wheels work with the 32-35mm clinchers? What is ideal?
Thanks
pazman
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
Standard road rims work just fine with cross tires but if you have a choice you might want to go for something wider like the Velocity A23.
https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=746
https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=746
#4
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Good advice black_box. I don't want to be adjusting brakes everytime I swap wheelsets. Looks like I'll go with the road wheelset.
Bonus for me using the road wheelset - they'll be my road back-ups/trainers in the off season.
Thanks
Bonus for me using the road wheelset - they'll be my road back-ups/trainers in the off season.
Thanks
#5
Any CX clincher can be mounted on a narrow road rim, even MTB wide tires will stay on a 20mm rim fine. Difference is that a wider rim will make your tire footprint a bit wider too and hold more air volume inside the tire, help provide a bit more floatation/traction for when that is desireable. With the proliferation of 29er MTBs, there are now a lot more wide 700c rims available than several years back. If you have a barral adjuster inline somewhere with your brakes, adjusting pad clearance amounts to all of a 5 second tool-less operation.
#6
Have bike, will travel
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,286
Likes: 317
From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Standard road rims work just fine with cross tires but if you have a choice you might want to go for something wider like the Velocity A23.
https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=746
https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=746
While wider tires will fit on a narrow rim, they are not recommended. The Mavic website states that a 700x28 is the widest tire recommended for the Open Pro and its other 19mm wide road rims.
Michael
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
+2 on the Velocity A23's. They will behave the most like tubulars, with lower pressures.
I also agree on planning ahead for wheel changes. I built and carry three sets of wheels, two that are the same (front and rear) and one for mud. This way I can make tire swaps at the last moment on site and have a spare set in the pits. Hubs become the only consideration and there is a plethora of considerations out there for you to make from lifetime use to weight to bearing material. Good luck with that research. I use Shimano 105 hubs because, for me, they have a good balance of quality lifetime use and weight.
I also agree on planning ahead for wheel changes. I built and carry three sets of wheels, two that are the same (front and rear) and one for mud. This way I can make tire swaps at the last moment on site and have a spare set in the pits. Hubs become the only consideration and there is a plethora of considerations out there for you to make from lifetime use to weight to bearing material. Good luck with that research. I use Shimano 105 hubs because, for me, they have a good balance of quality lifetime use and weight.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
Regarding the brake adjustments, I don't find it a big deal if you have barrel adjusters on both brakes. I use sissy levers and adjusters are built into them.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 513
Likes: 8
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
The mountain bike hub is 135mm wide versus the 130mm width of the road hub, therefore they will not fit the spacing on your cross bike. If you want cheaper than 105, then you're better off with one of the "numbered" varieties offered by Shimano or just purchasing an a23 wheelset from a builder.
However, that's just my opinion. Take it or leave it.
#12
It has 130mm spacing and can't be stretched being Alu. You can get a new axle and reduce a MTB hub to 130mm. I use a set of LX hubs with velocity fusions as training/everything wheels.
__________________
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 513
Likes: 8
Both 130mm and 135mm hubs fit the C'dale CAAD9 CX9, so it must be 132.5mm rear spacing.
What is the best online source to purchase the new US made tubeless ready A23s?
What is the best online source to purchase the new US made tubeless ready A23s?
Check the new US made A23s. They are tubeless ready.
#14
Erik, Alu frames are not supposed to be stretched. Just a heads up. Your frame is 130, use hubs with that spacing only. 132.5 frames are steel, my Poprad has this spacing.
__________________
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 513
Likes: 8
The weird thing is that when I put 130 spaced hubs in the dropouts, I need to compress a bit, and when I put 135 29er wheels on it nedds to stretch ever so slightly (which is easy to do on the frame (it has a bit of give both in and out). That is why I think the dropouts are really at 132.5 - Who knows though, I don't have calipers and I can't find the spec for the 2009 CX9 online.
#17
Honestly, the biggest concern if you put a 135mm wheel in a 130mm frame isn't the bending of the stays, it's the stress on the dropouts caused by misalignment. This would bother me on a steel frame, too - the attachment point for the dropouts is the weak point on either steel or aluminum frames.
Last edited by grolby; 12-04-12 at 10:31 AM.
#18
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 2
From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
Standard road rims will work fine with cross tires. Most clincher cross tires are designed around a narrower rim anyway.
I use H+Son TB14s (23mm) for clinchers and find that the side knobs of Mud 2s don't quite sit low enough. It's not a problem in most conditions, but it's less than ideal.
I use H+Son TB14s (23mm) for clinchers and find that the side knobs of Mud 2s don't quite sit low enough. It's not a problem in most conditions, but it's less than ideal.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 513
Likes: 8
I ditched the 135mm wheels and am running my old 130mm road rims now. Cynikal scared me, I don't want to ruin my 60cm 2009 CAAD9 CX9! I love this frame - best bike I have owned. It has a 60cm top tube and 20cm head-tube which fits me like a glove. The new Cannondale 61cm CX frames only have a 59cm top-tube.
It's perfectly safe to use a hub where the spacing is slightly off - you'll have to force it in a bit, but Al is easily springy enough to do this safely. What you shouldn't do with Al is cold set it, that is, permanently bend the stays to accept a new spacing. And putting a 135mm hub in a 130 frame is pushing the limits a bit, though I did once use a 126mm wheel in a 130 Al road frame for several months without problems. Putting a 135 hub in a 132.5 Al frame is no problem at all though, and I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't be surprised if the CX9 was made with 132.5 spacing.
Honestly, the biggest concern if you put a 135mm wheel in a 130mm frame isn't the bending of the stays, it's the stress on the dropouts caused by misalignment. This would bother me on a steel frame, too - the attachment point for the dropouts is the weak point on either steel or aluminum frames.
Honestly, the biggest concern if you put a 135mm wheel in a 130mm frame isn't the bending of the stays, it's the stress on the dropouts caused by misalignment. This would bother me on a steel frame, too - the attachment point for the dropouts is the weak point on either steel or aluminum frames.
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
I run 35's on my 19mm rims. No problems with clinchers even down to 35 psi. The only time I run them that low is for some cushion on light mountain trails. I fear for my rims much more so than any rim to tire fit issues as I ding the rims on a regular basis. I'm pretty much at the limits with this combo I think and tire fit isn't the show stopper. Running more pressure puts me even more in the green regarding fitment. I wouldn't hesitate to run wider tires for that matter but 35's seems to be a good choice for most of my uses.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Chief Brody
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
9
05-15-12 12:45 PM












