Trek 4900 Disc or Trek 6000?
Quesiton looks simple right?But not, I can't sleep untill I find right MTB for me
BTW, do you know if 6 series will be retired by Trek?
Trek 4900 Disc or Trek 6000?
Quesiton looks simple right?But not, I can't sleep untill I find right MTB for me
BTW, do you know if 6 series will be retired by Trek?
Hi folks, First post, looking for a pro opinion from you guys:
http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...acle&Type=bike << used to have something close to this but it was custom, and the frame was chromoly not aluminum. It didn't have a grip shifter like the 1994 version. I somehow lost that bike and since I'm getting lazy and out of shape working IT, I'm in the market for something else.
http://pedalpowerct.com/product/12trek-3700-94368-1.htm
Should I get the TREK 3700 FOR $529? (maybe talk them down in price since its a small shop)
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/pr...413993.4418012
OR, should I get a Nishiki Wasatch?
I have been checking craigslist, but haven't seen anything that good. I'm leaning towards the Nishiki because I loved the one I had so much..I believe the Nishiki I had was over $1000 new at the time I had it. I'm hoping a $500ish model won't make me disappointed. I'll be doing road/mountain/trails/rocks/streams; but really don't want to dish out more than $500 USD. I remember the bearings in the pedals and wheels made street riding really fast on the way to the trails. I don't care about suspension much. I don't know what all the hype is. I guess I liked the brain jiggle going 50mph down a mountain when I was a kid..
I'll will likely average 25miles a week, about 10 miles at a time, 65% road / 35% off-road. I appreciate your input!
CaReBeeN, the 6000 is the better bike, but the upgrades on it are relatively minor. If it were me, I'd get the 4900 and then put the money I saved toward a better fork.
NikishiMan: Go with the Trek over the Nikishi. At that pricepoint, a full-suspension will be heavy and the suspension will be crap. The Trek is a better bike. I doubt you'll get a discount on the Trek...bike shops make more money from maintenance and accessory sales than bike sales. If you're going to try to negotiate, negotiate for maintenance.
Last edited by Zephyr11; 03-27-12 at 08:38 PM.
@Zephyr11, thanks for the feedback.
I even decided to go with 4300 Disc (I'm really an obsessed person about colors), I'll save more money with this downgrade. Than I'll ride it as it is untill 2013 Shimano SLX components are released. Afterwards I'll upgrade full set of SLX.
I hope I'll enjoy with this decision of mine.
Cheers
So-
I've been away from mountain biking for 15+ years doing the roadie thing, and am looking to get back in. Is it possible to buy a FS XC rig in the $1500-ish range that is worthwhile? I see things like the SC Superlight, and the Jamis Dakar and they seem okay, but a few searches here and everyone carps about how a single pivot sux, etc. I have no frame of reference there. Will entry level shocks and discs ( I see a lot of Avid elixir 1 and 3 out there) be more trouble than they're worth? Standard XC riding, no big drops, etc.
Under normal circumstances, I'd have no problem spending more to get the perfect bike (i'm good at overkill), but I'm looking for my wife and myself, so just double whatever the cost of the bike ultimately is. I'm still open to a hardtail if the value for money here for FS doesn't compute.
Hi guys! I am new to this forum, so I don't know if I am in the right section to post it, but here it is anyway:
I came across this bike on Craigslist
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/bn...921457043.html
I am not sure if it is a good one to get, as it seems like it got no brand visible anywhere (self-made?) , but the price looks good for dual suspensions and disc brakes. I am quite new to biking, so to start off, this one looks decent.
Can you help to decide if i should go for it? Obviously, I will do a test drive before buying, but I want to hear what you guys think. Sorry for maybe stupid questions
Also, I added additional pictures.
Thanks guys, appreciate
Lost my third set of front brake pads yesterday, so it's officially time to get something better for the front (& eventually rear). Trying to stay in the $100 range. Already talked to Ed a while back & got a recommendation for Strokers for less leverage, less power, more modulation; & Elixirs for more leverage, more power, less modulation. I generally prefer the latter but there are a lot of Elixirs out there so I'm not 100% which set Ed has experience with. Could be that for my price range, the Stroker Rydes would be the better choice.
I also know Doug swears my Hayes Primes, but haven't heard anything specific about them. Braking power is most important to me, but I'm still only riding light-moderate XC so I don't really need anything super powerful. Squeaky brakes drive me insane. As little maintenance as possible is preferred. Definitely want something that will adequately hold the pads in place.
Suggest/elaborate away!
just a n00b with an ego
Hello, I'm pretty much your stereotype know-nothing-about-bikes, but I'd love to learn. Cruising the net and I came to this site, and was wondering if I could get some advice.
I am in desire towards a bicycle simply for transportation purposes, but in two kinds of terrains: our rock-ridden, dirt country road, and everyday regular road. The country road has narrow paths where car tires have smoothed it out somewhat, though generally the area is very rocky. Being down south, we also have mesquite thorns, and some old rusty nails near our house from an old fire. I was considering something like gel or solid rubber tires, though I really don't know anything about which is better or unnecessary. I'd imagine solid rubber tired might ruin the frame of the wheel..? Just strictly from thinking about the rocks, not to mention I'm of dense body weight. Weight is also another reason why I am looking for a bicycle. I plan on riding the bike I choose as long as I can, and I expect to get lighter as I keep going with it.. Though the main part of its life I imagine will be on road; two maybe three on the country road.
It didn't hit me before, but maybe I should get two bikes? I've heard of something like a hybrid before. I don't know as far as brands [I'll come back with some in the future, but after a more general guidance.. And after more research], but I live near a city with over 1m people, which has several bike shops.. I plan on calling some and just writing down names of stuff they have and looking them up online.
So what I'm asking is really, should I get a mountain bike or a hybrid, or two different bikes, what sort of tires should I be looking at, should I even get a bike with that kind of terrain? I'm not really a beginner as far as riding, I used to ride around a ton when I was little and up until preteen years. But the parents always took care of brands for me.. I'm not really the physical-world-interaction kind of person, more of a brain strapped to a body--so in a way I do prefer to be ignorant to brands, or specific modifications or features on a bike.. I just want something durable and good to ride. But I'll learn the specifics if I must.
Also, my budget for all of this is only 250$. Maybe 300$? I'd imagine any sort of special tires will take a chunk out. Thank you for your suggestions, also message me or quote me if you'd like me to elaborate on something. I've been dreaming about biking again for years, and would hate to throw away any potential advice over some miscommunication.
look for a good used hard tail, preferably trek or specialized, one of the big companies. craigslist is your next step.Originally Posted by AkaruiRain
I have it worked out to two bikes;
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/2942883417.html
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/2910736778.html
First one:
I believe it's a better brand, is has V-brakes, 250 though it might be a little tall for me. But I figure I can adjust the seat..
Second one:
Not sure about the brand, it has disc brakes [I don't know enough to tell what kind], the guy lives about 2 hours from me but he's willing to sell it for 250 if I can make half the trip there.
I've called both guys, emailed, they're both nice people, seems legit and all.. I'm wary about the driving one, but it has disc brakes .-. Should I see if he can gather what kind? Should I just be adamant about the one closer to me even if its not quite my size? I really do want that first one. The second guy is just really nice though. And he seems really eager to get rid of the bike for a good price.. I'm thinking I should just stick with the closer guy though.. I'm scared someone else will buy it first, though. Supposed to be meeting up with him tomorrow, and if its all fine and looks good I'd buy it on the spot right there.. But the other guy wants me to call him before I buy so we can work out a more comfortable deal like distance-wise..
Sam, Primes are supposed to be the schizz - - I was told by my Hayes rep that I wouldn't miss my 4-pot Stroker Ace calipers, they are supposed to be that good. And the adjustments on the MC/lever assembly are out-of-this-world cool.I also know Doug swears my Hayes Primes, but haven't heard anything specific about them. Braking power is most important to me, but I'm still only riding light-moderate XC so I don't really need anything super powerful. Squeaky brakes drive me insane. As little maintenance as possible is preferred. Definitely want something that will adequately hold the pads in place.
Suggest/elaborate away!
BUT - - for dollar spent, I would go with the Stroker Trail if I were you. Plenty powerful, good modulation, great reach-adjustment and dependable as a stone axe. I raced downhill for 3+ seasons on a set on two different DH sleds and they were dependable, powerful stoppers. My son now has them on his Santa Cruz Bullitt and has shredded Galbraith in Bellingham, Beacon and Whistler and they are still going strong with nothing more than a pad change.
Some pretty attractive pricing on sets out there now too, if you shop around.
Yeti Cycles | RST | ONE Industries (One/SixSixOne) | Hayes | Maxxis | Renthal | Royal Racing /South Shore (Urge/Brake Authority) | Bicycle Butler • Spokane, WA
Well my problem was solved by a generous member here sending me a set of El Caminos & a bleed kit free of charge. Never ceases to amaze me how kind people can be.
Now I got my tax returns & am looking into replacing that gawd awful squeaky bouncy leaky Bar 2.1 shock on my bike. Posted up a new thread for that one so hopefully it'll get some more attention from the vets around here. Either that or I'll get flamed for not posting it in this thread, even though I know better
just a n00b with an ego
Ok, yet another "I am torn and don't know which to buy" request. Can someone give me opinions on these bikes if you have experience with them. Basically, I am wanting to enter the 29er world but would like to keep it under $1000ish. Right now I have it narrowed down to 3 brands because of what a few LBS stock and have. Here are the ones I am considering:
Trek Mamba
Trek Cobia
Giant Talon 29er 0
Giant Talon 29er 1
GT Karakoram 2.0
GT Karakoram 1.0
The Giant and GT are offered at the same LBS and the guy was honest enough to look at the specs on both and said that it appeared to him that the GT had better components for the money. The only problem with that is that they do not have any on the floor and would have to order it which means I would be stuck with it.
What does everyone think? Thanks!
Hey guys, I've got a simple question here. Should I upgrade my current bike (2011 Trek 4300) or just save up and buy a new one? I was planning on upgrading the fork and drivetrain. I was told to just buy a new bike by the guys at the bike shop, but the way I see it I could keep upgrading the parts till eventually I practically have a new bike, not to mention I love to work on stuff.
One thing I am going to upgrade anyway is the crankset since my left crank arm keeps stripping out. Any suggestions for that? I'm wanting to keep it around $200. What's a good bash guard to go with it too?
Last edited by rockr09; 04-14-12 at 05:54 AM.
I have a 2005 4500, and I absolutely love the bike, but I posted another thread recently 'Trek 4500: Upgrade Uncertainty' which might be of interest to you. Maybe not: your bike is still very new, and I would recommend waiting for something to break before you fix it, unless you are certain you need better parts (if you out on demanding trails frequently, or are reckless with the bike). It's a little too easy to sink dough into a bike
Check out jensonusa for cranks. I'm looking at a Shimano LX (M582), for about $90, but there's a sweet deal on the XT M770 for $169 (down from $359). Don't know much about bash guards...
Hey all,
First post here. I'm ready to get back into the world of mountain biking. As a teenager I biked heavily - anywhere and everywhere. I did a couple of week long bike trips (carried all gear) and usually biked to and from places in town rather than driving. In college I mostly just used my bike as a commuter for class (or when I'd be going out drinking and didn't want a DUI
I turned 24 last Monday and haven't touched a bike since college and I really miss it. I don't have my bike from before so I'm looking to jump into the world again. I was never big into buying components. My parents gifted me a really nice Giant with quality, upgraded components (no clue what the specs were) and I never swapped anything out unless it broke. I'm looking to pretty much take the same approach now after my initial purchase (no need for a $1,000+ bike)
I've done a lot of craigslist and local ad searching and someone has offered to sell me a Trek 6000 for $200. From what I can tell on bikepedia, it's a 1998. The bike looks like someone rode it twice then stuck it in their basement to collect dust (fantastic condition). What do you all think? Aesthetically, it's not the sexiest looking bike but I think that's largely due to the stock components (thin tires, not very aggressive setup, etc.). For $200 that would leave me with some room to upgrade anything. Thoughts?
That's a fair price for that bike provided it's ride ready and needs nothing. I would not buy that bike with the intention of upgrading it. Its a 14 year old bike. If you're going to put serious $$$ into upgrades, I'd put that money into a newer/better bike now. That said, if you're looking just for a bike to do some trail riding without sinking lots of money into it, I would check out the fork on the TRek. If its an elastomer fork, the elastomers may no longer be flexible. If the fork needs replacement, then it would make that bike a really bad purchase at that price. If it checks out, and if all the gears are shifting correctly, check out the wheels. Are they original or did someone change the wheels at the same time they changed the tires? I had that trick played on me so check carefully. Keep in mind, on a 14 year old bike, the hubs will probably need to be repacked. The Bottom bracket is a cartridge and won't need lubing. Check the price of tire replacement and hub lubing before you buy so you know what you're getting into. Then look at a low end bike at the bike shop and ask yourself if that's a better buy than the Trek. After that, if you still like the Trek, and it checks out, go for it.
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
Stopped by to take a closer look at the bike last night and ended up getting it. Saying the person rode it twice is probably and overstatement as well. It essentially right off the rack and might have been ridden to the end of a driveway and carried back
The suspension seems ok to me, but I've been off a bike so long I couldn't honestly tell you how stiff it needs to feel. Is age alone something that can deteriorate the life a suspension?
Gears all seem to shift but the derailers are in need of a good tuning. I tried myself but I'm only good at minor tweaks. I'll call a bike friend over for some assistance... Going off what I see on bikepedia, the wheels don't look original. It has on there right now a set of bontrager corvair wheels. They don't need to be trued but I had the guy keep the road/hybrid tires because I didn't have any use for them and he knocked off a few bucks (he keeps a scrap pike of parts so he can piece together bikes for resale). As for the hubs, maybe I'll look into a little DIY project since I've never repacked them before.If it checks out, and if all the gears are shifting correctly, check out the wheels. Are they original or did someone change the wheels at the same time they changed the tires? I had that trick played on me so check carefully. Keep in mind, on a 14 year old bike, the hubs will probably need to be repacked.
I also snagged a brand new San Marco Ponza saddle and a Cannondale C2 carbon seatpost that he had laying around. I removed those stupid cages from the pedals because I hate them but the pedals are still plastic so I may order some metal ones off amazon or something. But a new set of tires and a tune-up and I'll be on the trails again!
(more pics to come...)
EDIT: I adjusted the derailleurs. It was easy as cake once I pulled my head out of my butt and figured out to adjust the H/L screwed before connecting the cables
Last edited by cartisdm; 04-30-12 at 06:57 AM.
Hey guys. Posted this yesterday before realizing I should have asked it here.
So, my question is, would switching from a RS Dart 3 to a RS recon silver be worth it? Are they essentially the same fork?
Going to build up my single speed in the next 2 or 3 weeks and I want to know what to do about the fork before I begin.
I plan on keeping this bike for a good long time and riding the snot out of it. Probably trail riding and winter training/riding on Prairie Path.
Don't know if I would ever be racing but who knows? I guess I want to make sure that even though I'm on a tight budget, I'll be getting/using something decent and worthwhile.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Gavo
I'm trying to find an adequate SS 29er to get into mountain biking for cheap. RIght now I am looking at a 2009 GT Peace 9r on Craigslist that is listed to be in 'excellent condition' at $425, and the Dawes BullsEye from bikesdirect for $400. I was thinking about putting in an offer for $350 or so for the GT Peace if I check it out and everything looks good, but I may be prepared to pay more as I really want to get on the trails. Is the $425 asking price a fair deal? Any help would be awesome, thanks.
You might want to look at this. Nice bike at a good price.
http://www.airbornebicycles.com/prod...dian-29er.aspx
I'm hoping someone can give me some feedback on this Niner Air9.
I'm looking for my first mountain bike, I've riden a Trek 4300 a Niner SIR9 and a Niner Air9 Carbon. Obviously the niners were nicer than the Trek, they had great geometry and felt very nice on bumpier stuff. I wanted something between the SIR9 and AIR9 carbon... mostly for the lighter weight. I'm only about 5'7 155lbs so having a lightweight bike is nice because I feel like I can move it around easier. I'll mostly be riding trails in Georgia.
Is this build kit ok? Seems like the frame and fork are good. The components seam a bit lower grade... but I suppose I could upgrade some of them down the line. I really don't like shifting a ton through gears and would kind of like something like just a 10speed. Something like the Specialized Stumpjumper EVO http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...6&menuItemId=0.
Here's the NinerAIR9 I'm asking about.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Cross-Count...Bike-11?cs=Raw
I seem to recall a thread not too long ago about a guy who had an Airborne Zeppelin with some crooked welds in the suspension linkage. I'd be wary of them.
just a n00b with an ego
The weld was not crooked. The part was bent during shipping.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC_0354-1.jpg
Gotcha, thanks for the correction.
just a n00b with an ego
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