Ask Scrod

[hamfoh]

s300?

[Scrodzilla]

I need a new crankset/bb. I'm looking for low maintenance but with pretty high durability, cuz at 6'5"/210lbs. I'm not a small guy. I'd like crankarms that are around 172.5 cuz that's what I have and they're comfortable. Pretty sure I have a 62mm shell. Here's the kicker, seeing as I'm gonna be buying the tools to do the swap myself, I'm not gonna have a ton of cash to throw around, so no om-nom-noms and no 75s, even though I really want the 75s. This will be the first non-factory part on the bike, so it's kind of a big deal that I get something decent. Currently rockin FSA Vero. Aesthetics aren't super important, but given the option I want black.

Lay it on me, brah.

FSA Veros (the older ones) aren't too bad of a crank. Why do yours need to be replaced and how much are you looking to spend?

You most likely have a 68mm shell.

[jimmytango]

I kind of assumed that coming on a Lager they would be average and that's it, but you know more about this **** than I do. I measured this morning, and it is 68mm. Mine creak (threads need greased), flex a lot (I'm a big dude with strong legs), and vibrate. Like, through the pedals on smooth road I can feel vibrations. Also, sometimes when I go to skid or even just pedal hard it clicks really loud and feels like it skips a link. I threw on a new cog, chain, and chainring to eliminate them as causes, but it still does it once every 20 miles or so. Therefore, I've reasoned out that I need a new bb and/or crankset. I was gonna say I could spend up to $100, but I am unemployed as of today, so I'm not sure.

Also, Beatles or Rolling Stones?

[carleton]

Most Excellent Marquis de Scrod,

I'm in search of some strong deep and relatively narrow bullhorn bars for racing. Are the Euro Asia Imports steel Nitto RB-021s my only option? I have them in size 40, but would like some 38s.

What bars are these?:


I found them while snooping around on hamfoh's blog: http://mybikes.tumblr.com/post/9510207825

[andrizzle]

... hamfoh's blog: http://mybikes.tumblr.com/post/9510207825

wow. what a great blog. where have i been

[FKMTB07]

Most Excellent Marquis de Scrod,

I'm in search of some strong deep and relatively narrow bullhorn bars for racing. Are the Euro Asia Imports steel Nitto RB-021s my only option? I have them in size 40, but would like some 38s.

What bars are these?:


I found them while snooping around on hamfoh's blog: http://mybikes.tumblr.com/post/9510207825

Relative track racing newb here, but what races are you using bullhorns for? Mounting aero-bars for pursuits? I wasn't aware anything but drops were legal for mass-start events. Now I'm curious.

Also, I think the RB-021s are made in 38cm in the alloy version, but not being heat treated, I think they might be too flexy for you. I guess since you've got that much less leverage with a narrower bar, maybe the flex issues wouldn't be as bad with the alloy version? Who knows?

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2657

May look goofy (but who really cares if you're faster in a race) but flat bullhorns like the RB-018's in a 38cm (heat treated alloy) and a -25 degree stem might be okay.

[carleton]

Relative track racing newb here, but what races are you using bullhorns for? Mounting aero-bars for pursuits? I wasn't aware anything but drops were legal for mass-start events. Now I'm curious.

Also, I think the RB-021s are made in 38cm in the alloy version, but not being heat treated, I think they might be too flexy for you. I guess since you've got that much less leverage with a narrower bar, maybe the flex issues wouldn't be as bad with the alloy version? Who knows?

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2657

May look goofy (but who really cares if you're faster in a race) but flat bullhorns like the RB-018's in a 38cm (heat treated alloy) and a -25 degree stem might be okay.

Any standing time trial (500M, 1K, 2K, 3K, 4K) can be ridden with drop bars, aero bars, or bullhorn bars. For example:



The flat bullhorns are an option, too. Especially if I'm not adding arm rests.

[prooftheory]

That is the first time I've seen an adjustable stem position that I liked.

[Scrodzilla]

Also, Beatles or Rolling Stones?

Neither. **** both of those wildly overrated bands.

carleton - I have no idea what bars those are.

I've got a set of 40cm (measured outside to outside) Deda CronoNERO Lowriders - wrapped in pink LizardSkins, no less - that I've been thinking of selling. They're not steel but they're deep, stiff as hell and have aero tops. They're a 31.8 clamp though.

[redpear]

Scrod,

I've got a big question about handlebars. In the past I know you've loved different handlebars, particularly risers and now compact drops.

Regarding risers, I've heard a few things:

1. Rearward sweep is good until you chop them down to shoulder width. Then they are not comfortable.
I have only one pair of risers chopped to shoulder width and they don't have a tremendous amount of sweep. To me, it feels like a bit more sweep would actually feel a bit more ergonomic.

2. Upward sweep is also good.
I have no experience with this.

What kind of risers do you like in terms of upward sweep, rearward sweep, and rise?

[calbob76]

carleton try profile airwings? although i think they only come in 40 wide and don't go into the 30's.

or it would be sweet to find some old mavic pursuit bars

[jimmytango]

Neither. **** both of those wildly overrated bands.

Pretty close to my sentiments, though I do prefer the Stones. Respectable answer.

[Jaytron]

Scrod,

I have a (probably stupid) question regarding my Kilo TT.

I googled and figured out how to measure stem length (I think I currently have a 90mm) and I want a longer stem, 110mm or 120mm. I have no idea how to figure out the sizing for the bars or if that even matters? I know that I'll need a 1" stem for the steerer tube, but that's about it.

[jimmytango]

I'll just say it before Adriano pipes in, 130mm or nothing.

[Scrodzilla]

Scrod,

I've got a big question about handlebars. In the past I know you've loved different handlebars, particularly risers and now compact drops.

Regarding risers, I've heard a few things:

1. Rearward sweep is good until you chop them down to shoulder width. Then they are not comfortable.
I have only one pair of risers chopped to shoulder width and they don't have a tremendous amount of sweep. To me, it feels like a bit more sweep would actually feel a bit more ergonomic.

2. Upward sweep is also good.
I have no experience with this.

What kind of risers do you like in terms of upward sweep, rearward sweep, and rise?

Back sweep is definitely a good thing regardless of how wide your bars are. My Nittos have a pretty good amount. Angie has a set of Leader risers on her 722 that have a little less sweep that she loves but they feel a little uncomfortable to me. Dimension makes an inexpensive riser bar in various heights that have 15° sweep that feel really nice (be careful if you're buying them online though because Dimension also makes a 24° sweep model). As for rise, I happen to like around 2.5".

Regarding upsweep, I would think that would put your arms in a very unnatural position and have bad effects on your wrists and elbows after a while. If anything, slight down sweep would be more ergonomic - but I don't think I've ever seen any risers that sweep downward.

[Scrodzilla]

Scrod,

I have a (probably stupid) question regarding my Kilo TT.

I googled and figured out how to measure stem length (I think I currently have a 90mm) and I want a longer stem, 110mm or 120mm. I have no idea how to figure out the sizing for the bars or if that even matters? I know that I'll need a 1" stem for the steerer tube, but that's about it.

You're not going to find a good 1" stem so yeah, you'll need a 1 1/8" stem with a shim. No biggie. If you're still using the stock bars, they're 26mm.

[Jaytron]

You're not going to find a good 1" stem so yeah, you'll need a 1 1/8" stem with a shim. No biggie. If you're still using the stock bars, they're 26mm.

Thanks Scrod! A shim doesn't make it any less "safe" does it? One more question, what degree stem do I need to have it flat when flipped? If it's not too much, how is that calculated in relation to the head tube angle of 73°?

[Scrodzilla]

It's perfectly fine to use a shim. You'll want a +/-17° stem to have it parallel to the top tube. Keep in mind this will also slightly increase the reach.

[Jaytron]

It's perfectly fine to use a shim. You'll want a +/-17° stem to have it parallel to the top tube. Keep in mind this will also slightly increase the reach.

I have the stem flipped now it seems pretty flat (or close to it).

How is the number 17° calculated? Just 90-73=17?

[carleton]

It's perfectly fine to use a shim. You'll want a +/-17° stem to have it parallel to the top tube. Keep in mind this will also slightly increase the reach.

+1

I've used shims on the track during my most [boston accent] wickid haaad [/accent] standing starts and they don't budge. It's a safe solution.

[Scrodzilla]

How is the number 17° calculated? Just 90-73=17?

Ju got it mang.

[Jaytron]

+1

I've used shims on the track during my most [boston accent] wickid haaad [/accent] standing starts and they don't budge. It's a safe solution.

Ju got it mang.

Thanks both of you!

Fact: I've learned more about bikes in the few months I've been riding SS, than I knew from months of being a roadie, thanks to you guys and everyone else in this section of BF. Thanks everyone

[jimmytango]

Yeah, people here are great if you make it through the subtle hazing.

[homebrewk]

Dear Scrod,

After taking off some of the stickers on my Shimano RS10 rims on the Cannondale there is some sticky stuff left. You can't really see it but I want it to go bye-bye. I could just Google it but it is a rim so I don't want to **** it up. I figured you would know the correct (and safe) way to do it.

[Scrodzilla]

Spray some WD40 on it and let it sit for a few minutes to soften the adhesive. Spray a little more on a rag and it should rub off fairly easily.