questions for breaking-in a new brooks saddle
i have 2 new brooks leather saddles what is the best way to break-in a new leather saddle ? what is the best stuff to use ? would you use just profide ? has any one ever used glove oil ? or any other kind of oil to break-in a leather saddle ? if you have all ready used profide can you still us glove oil or any other oil to help the break-in ?
+1 on Proofide & ride. I'm a heavy guy and could ride mine right out of the box comfortably.
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi
"However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
Another vote for proofide and ride. I've found if my Brooks is adjusted right as far as angle and fore aft position, it will be comfortable from the get go and just gets better with time.
ok the 2 new brooks saddles i have for break-in are a honey brooks b17 standard and the other is a nos black brooks b5n. i have noticed right out of the box with nothing on the leather, it was some what plyable to the point that when i was sitting on ether saddle while getting them both set up right i could fill the leather sink under my seat bones when i put my hand under the saddle while sitting on it. so should i use oil or profide for the break-in? and how long should it take to break-in ? i am 5'7'' 150 lbs 33w and 29 l i ride a green 1973 raleigh super course 10 speed thx pi what i have herd oil is instant break-in and profide is ?
It's leather.. it should be firm but have give. I really am trying to steer you away from treating them with anything but proofide, and the actual directions for the initial treatment should have come with the saddles. IIRC you use a small amount on the top, spread it around pretty well, same with the bottom, but you have to make sure you get every bit of it, since your doing the initial weatherproofing.. if you find your saddle has too much give, perhaps tension it a bit with the nose?Originally Posted by drew5889
thanks for the advice i just coated both saddles with profide on the top and the bottom. is the saddle on your bike a honey b17 standard and is it broken-in ? if you want to see the b5n it is on this form under questions for brooks narrow saddles there are 3 pictures question now with the profide how long it take to break-in ? thx ps for got to ask where i keep my bike it is not heated should i bring my leather saddle in the house ??
Last edited by drew5889; 01-23-12 at 05:30 PM. Reason: to ad to text
even tho i decided to try profide from what i have read and heard i still fill that glove oil would be better faster for breaking a leather saddle then profide
I have a B 17S I just finished breaking in, and yes it is honey. I do like it a lot, as for heat and the saddle hopefully someone else can chime in my road bikes are quite pampered and live in a room devoted to them in my home...
ok then let me ask you 2 things. 1. on your saddle if you used just profide how long did it take to break-in with seat bone indents ? 2. if you say glove or any oil is bad for leather saddles then you show me pictures of brooks saddles that were broken-in with glove or some other oils that you say will rune them thx
I don't recall signing up to do your research for you guy, so if you're still gonna insist on oiling your saddle I've already done what I can for you, as for break in it took less then 100 miles for my saddle to get comfortable.
as i thought you can't or won't back up your clam with any proof that glove or other oils is harmful not good or bad for a leather saddle break-in
Drew, these things are very durable. Perhaps you'll shorten the life of one by a few years by using some other treatment, perhaps it will last just as long as if you only used proofhide. Just slap the treatment of your choice on and ride it. Many people find them comfy right out of the box. Have you put it on your bike and ridden it yet?
2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '88 Trek 900, '92 Trek T100, 2000 Rans Tailwind
http://www.ehow.com/facts_6178176_ne...-leather_.html if after reading that you can't understand why I think it's a terrible idea for a new saddle then go right ahead. I'm not trying to be mean when I ask this, so please don't take it as such why did you ask if your plan was to do that anyways no matter what responses you got... you could have just as easily done the research yourself then ignored it...
I ride on an original 1972 Schwinn black saddle that creaks when I peddle.
Enjoy your out-of-the-box comfortable, expensive Brooks saddle. Your arse will get used to it if it's too hard.
If you don't like it after that, I'll take one off your hands.
edit: I totally spelt 'pedal' incorrectly. I'm going to leave it the way it is, however, for the sense of... intrigue.
Last edited by uRabbit; 01-26-12 at 05:50 PM.
1971 Schwinn Varsity 10-speed [First, now Parts Bike]
1974 Schwinn Suburban 10-speed [Wifey's]
1983 Schwinn Super Le Tour 12-Speed [sold April 10th, 2012]
1974 Schwinn Suburban 5-speed [Mine]
1981 Sekai 2400 [Go-Fast]
I am about to get one of those squisy supposedly supportive saddles from REI that has good reviews. My problem is I once owned a nice broken in Brooks B68. At least I think that was the model. Anyway it was a little wider than the aged B67 I have at present and which refuses to break in. Of course I have only ridden on my Raleigh Sports (1973) for about 300 miles total if that and most of it has been downtown. Anyway it has laces around it that I have never fiddled with. Perhaps that is th problem. I have experimented with tons of adjustments and done the recommended Proofhide treatment all to no avail. It sure looks nice on the old beater though! Hate to give up, butt - - - - -!
Dude, you asked for advice. It was given. You either take it or you don't. If I were you, I would do what Brooks says to do, which BTW is what most giving advice here have told you. Who would know better? You or Brooks?
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Jesus Christ and the American GI. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
Put your flame suits on
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