Removed Front Cable Hanger, what do I do with the extra space on my headset?

[stbtra]

I removed a front cable hangar on my touring frame to install a fork mounted tricross hanger. Now I have a bunch of extra space, do I put spacers, saw it?

note: I realize that my threaded stem is not installed yet.

[ultraman6970]

You can do either way, I would put spacers in the middle and then tight again. Done.

[HillRider]

Get a suitable spacer or a stack of washers and install it or them between the top race and the locknut so the locknut threads down almost flush with the top of the steerer.

[echo]

You can do either way, I would put spacers in the middle and then tight again. Done.

+1 Add some spacers, be happy.

[SweetLou]

Get a suitable spacer or a stack of washers and install it or them between the top race and the locknut so the locknut threads down almost flush with the top of the steerer.

I just want to emphasize the almost flush. There needs to be a gap between the steerer tube and the locknut.

[HillRider]

I just want to emphasize the almost flush. There needs to be a gap between the steerer tube and the locknut.

Well, he certainly doesn't have one now. Actually for a threaded headset, the gap isn't essential the way it is for threadless. The headset's preload doesn't depend on the stem.

[IthaDan]

Huh, obviously the locknut doesn't have a flange on it to cap the steerer. Just thinking out loud here, but why couldn't he ride it like it is for the time being and find a spacer at his leisure?

edit:

Well, he certainly doesn't have one now. Actually for a threaded headset, the gap isn't essential the way it is for threadless. The headset's preload doesn't depend on the stem.

I presume that comment was for headsets with a flange on the locknut to keep it from bottoming out on the top of the steerer before the headset is properly preloaded.

[mikeybikes]

Huh. I always thought the locknut on a threaded headset had a ridge that prevented it from being threaded past the top of the steerer... guess not all of them.

[Smithie]

+1 to all. As long as that lock nut is on plenty of thread and holds well, just get some spacers at your leisure, no need to break out the saw.

[IthaDan]

Only issue I can see is that the washer works as a, well, washer. As it is now, the locknut and top cup are in direct contact and will turn together as one unit a lot easier than if you had a keyed washer in there. No huge rush to resolve, but keep an eye on it, it'll loosen easier how you have it now than before.

[HillRider]

Huh, obviously the locknut doesn't have a flange on it to cap the steerer. Just thinking out loud here, but why couldn't he ride it like it is for the time being and find a spacer at his leisure?

edit:
I presume that comment was for headsets with a flange on the locknut to keep it from bottoming out on the top of the steerer before the headset is properly preloaded.

Right, I've seen both designs but most recent ones have either no flange or just an O-ring or flexible plastic ring as a "seal" to keep water from running down the steerer. I forgot about the flanged version.

If it has a flange sufficient to keep the locknut from threading on indefinitely, you are right that the spacers under the locknut must be thick enough to assure there is a small (1-2 mm) gap under the flange when the the headset adjusted properly and locknut is tight.