My wife took a spill while while riding today. The rear rim is ruined, but the hub appears fine (shimano durace).
1) Is it safe to reuse the hub?
2) Roughly how much would we save by buying a new rim and rebuilding it our selves vs buying a whole new wheel?
3) Can someone recommend some parts and where to buy them?
Thanks!
Oh and in case it matters....
She weighs 115
32 spoke cxp 33
Last edited by Cead_tinne; 04-14-12 at 06:03 PM.
Buy an identical rim.
Tape it to the side of the existing rim.
Loosen all the spokes.
Move spokes to new rim one at a time.
Discard old rim.
True wheel.
All you are out, is the price of the rim and a roll of rim tape.
The hub should be fine. The spokes are iffy but may be reusable if you get exactly the same rim.
I'm going to write the spokes off as dead as well. Six were broken, or ripped out of the old wheel. Sorry i should have said that or, posted a picture.
In that case, price a new complete wheel before you proceed with rebuilding that one. Often a new wheel is less than just the parts even if you already have the hub.
Basically nothing. Hard to beat some of the deals on complete wheels out there. Then sell the used hub to help offset some of the cost.Originally Posted by Cead_tinne
Sounds like a nasty crash. Can't believe I'm the first to ask whether your wife's ok... heartless mechanics, all of ya!
She's fine, a bit of road rash on the shoulder is all. She's more bummed about the bike than anything. The bad part is that is was ME that crashed into her. She turned in front of me and BAM! My bike made out a little better, i just snapped the seat post off.
Conti gatorskins? At least she's riding in style.
I'd say just buy a new one.
She was getting flats all the time with the OEM tires. She hasn't got one flat since we put the gatorskins on, although she tells me its a bit rougher ride.
That seems to be the consensus on here. I think i was just looking for reason to build a wheel, oh well. Thanks everyone!
I will build wheels if I come across a good deal at my bike coop or I want something odd like a classic 27 1/4 inch wheel with a modern freehub body.
Keep the parts and if you come across a great deal for a rim or something, go ahead and build away.
Building wheels is fun, but it's hard to save money by doing it.
RUSA #7498
I didn't start building them for fun. I started doing to so they would be built correctly, after miserable experience with a well-known *supposedly* reputable shop.
Side benefits are being able to:
- Spec *any* parts, not just the ones they sell.
- Not being forced to buy all new spokes and nipples every time you replace a damaged rim.
Here's a reason to build a wheel - rear wheels are inherently weak (particularly under heavier riders), but you can build a lot better than most off-the-shelf rear wheels. What do you weigh? What's your current rear wheel? Chances are you can make one stronger and lighter...
Keep that hub, because Shimano freehubs are the best by far (since none other deserve the name and should rightly be called cassette hubs), and get an OCR of some type (Velocity's Aerohead OCR is nice and light, prolly suitable if you're under 85kg). Also, if you're lucky, your frame has an OLD in excess of the nominal 130mm (I had a '95 Giant CFR1 that was 135mm) - you can use this to add a spacer to the left side of the hub and enjoy even less dish. A 135mm/OCR wheel would have much less tension difference than usual, and consequently be very durable for its weight.
Another good move is to use a larger size tyre on the rear (or smaller on the front, depending which way you want to go), since it takes ~60% of the load and doesn't have to slice through the air...
And while I'm talking front/rear specific, a single pivot rear brake will increase your treadly's cool factor by >75%. Not to mention improve modulation while losing weight. It took Campy (hello, SRAM? Shimano?) like fifteen years to realise something that was obvious to me from the start; I've never run a DP rear. No point.
Last edited by Kimmo; 04-15-12 at 10:11 PM.
6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul
List of bike co-ops
Why are they called wheels? Coincidence???
+1 on the Velocity OCR's; I have Synergy's on two bikes, and Aerohead on a third.
But Shimano hubs the best? I'll take White Industries and/or Phil Wood over them.
Sure, they prolly do a better front hub. That's easy, and matters stuff-all. Is Ultegra or Dura-Ace quality not enough for you?
But unless they've licensed Shimano's design, their rear hub isn't a true freehub, and is thus inherently inferior. I don't give a rat's bum if it's made of slightly nicer stuff and anodised purple and costs three times as much. All else is fail.
I go on about it at length here. With pictures even.
Last edited by Kimmo; 04-15-12 at 11:05 PM.
6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul
List of bike co-ops
Why are they called wheels? Coincidence???
Yes.
Maybe $300 for a rear wheel with a Durace hub.2) Roughly how much would we save by buying a new rim and rebuilding it our selves vs buying a whole new wheel?
Whatever rim it was originally built with. Where you buy it from depends on what sort of rim you need.3) Can someone recommend some parts and where to buy them?
Remove tension from the spokes, lubricate the nipple sockets in the new rim with anti-seize (I like an acid brush with half the bristle length chopped off), transfer spokes one at a time with anti-seize on the threads, tension, stress-relieve, true, correct dish, and undo windup.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 04-16-12 at 12:25 AM.
I spend $60-$70 after I crash a wheel or wear out the brake track (front or rear) which is hundreds of dollars less than it would cost for a new Campagnolo cup-and-cone hub, new spokes, new nipples, and $45-$90 in labor.
It's less work than fixing some one else's bad wheel build (the spokes start with uniform tension and end that way), won't go out of true because some one did a bad job, and won't collapse on a small bump because some one put insufficient tension in the wheel (that really sucks).
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 04-16-12 at 12:34 AM.
Velox is reusable.All you are out, is the price of the rim and a roll of rim tape.
Go to www.universalcycles.com here in portland. Look at your options. For your needs I'd look at Open Sports, CXP22, Velocity A23 or Aeroheads. Wheelsmith DB spokes, and brass nipples. Check out parts from www.bikehubstore.com Those Kinlin rims are super and tough to beat the price. Reuse your hub. Save about $150 in labor at LBS by DIY. You don't need Open Pros, and I believe it's generally thought the OPs ain't "all that." I have some, and I have some hanging on the wall where all the eyelets are lose from corrosion.
Thanks for the recommendation. I ended up ordering a wheel, my wife didn't wait on me to figure it out. I plan on rebuilding the wheel anyway, I'll check that shop out next week when I'm in Portland.
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