Hoods For "Safety" Levers
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Hoods For "Safety" Levers
Junior's "College Bike" is a 1990-ish Schwinn Sprint. It's got Weinmann safety levers on it- which he loves. However, he was asking about hoods for them. I can't think of seeing safety levers with hoods- are there such things?
My thought was to just send him a set of Dia Compe hoods I've got sitting around, punch holes in or cut as applicable and rubber cement down if they flop about.
Sound about right, or are there actually hoods for them?
My thought was to just send him a set of Dia Compe hoods I've got sitting around, punch holes in or cut as applicable and rubber cement down if they flop about.
Sound about right, or are there actually hoods for them?
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Some of the Dia Compe hoods had punch outs to incorporate the safety levers.
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Some of the Dia Compe hoods had punch outs to incorporate the safety levers.
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shimano actually made a Exage series aero lever with safety levers. I wish I could find a pair that wasn't $80+
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Cane Creek hoods, available on line for under $10, plus an exacto knife. I've done it several times.
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This is somewhat off-topic, but if you converted to newer levers and added "cross levers" to the tops, they'd be more comfortable and functional.
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Getting the hoods to clear between the lever body and the safety lever is important to prevent friction between the two.
I put the washer on the protruding stud and cut around the washer instead of just around the stud. It is ncessary to have the stud pass thru the smaller hole first, so the hood lies flat on top of the larger-diameter washer while you trim around it with a sharp razor.
Some levers seem to require this more than others, I've seen some that worked okay with only the smaller hole for the stud, perhaps by deleting the washer? (wouldn't want to do that, the lever tip might slip off of the main brake lever's edge from the extra flex).
And BTW, the rubber on the CaneCreek hoods seems much thicker in places than original DiaCompe hoods.
I put the washer on the protruding stud and cut around the washer instead of just around the stud. It is ncessary to have the stud pass thru the smaller hole first, so the hood lies flat on top of the larger-diameter washer while you trim around it with a sharp razor.
Some levers seem to require this more than others, I've seen some that worked okay with only the smaller hole for the stud, perhaps by deleting the washer? (wouldn't want to do that, the lever tip might slip off of the main brake lever's edge from the extra flex).
And BTW, the rubber on the CaneCreek hoods seems much thicker in places than original DiaCompe hoods.
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The set I'm sending has the circle of the Dia Compe logo that looks like it could be a punch out.
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I suggested cross levers and he didn't like that idea.
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Getting the hoods to clear between the lever body and the safety lever is important to prevent friction between the two.
I put the washer on the protruding stud and cut around the washer instead of just around the stud. It is ncessary to have the stud pass thru the smaller hole first, so the hood lies flat on top of the larger-diameter washer while you trim around it with a sharp razor.
Some levers seem to require this more than others, I've seen some that worked okay with only the smaller hole for the stud, perhaps by deleting the washer? (wouldn't want to do that, the lever tip might slip off of the main brake lever's edge from the extra flex).
And BTW, the rubber on the CaneCreek hoods seems much thicker in places than original DiaCompe hoods.
I put the washer on the protruding stud and cut around the washer instead of just around the stud. It is ncessary to have the stud pass thru the smaller hole first, so the hood lies flat on top of the larger-diameter washer while you trim around it with a sharp razor.
Some levers seem to require this more than others, I've seen some that worked okay with only the smaller hole for the stud, perhaps by deleting the washer? (wouldn't want to do that, the lever tip might slip off of the main brake lever's edge from the extra flex).
And BTW, the rubber on the CaneCreek hoods seems much thicker in places than original DiaCompe hoods.
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The finished product is cosmetically perfect, you can't see the edges of the hole.
The washer is retained, preventing loose lever fit at the pivot, and the hood fully clears the moving safety lever.
I could take a picture if this is not clear, but showing only the completed installation. I does work flawlessly.
I also shorten (cut) the little spring in the hollow pivot shaft, the one that prevents the screw from loosening.
This allows the outer serrated washer to be deleted (it's useless) and lowers the profile of the protruding screw head a bit.
I also put LocTite on the screw threads, and lube the bushing and pivot bore in the safety lever with plastic-friendly GripShift grease.
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I mentioned putting the smaller hole over the stud, what I meant was to first put the washer over the stud, then put the hood on with the stud passing thru the original smaller hole in the hood, so the hood is aligned and lies flat when you carefully cut the bigger hole in the hood (around the washer) with a sharp, new razor blade.
The finished product is cosmetically perfect, you can't see the edges of the hole.
The washer is retained, preventing loose lever fit at the pivot, and the hood fully clears the moving safety lever.
I could take a picture if this is not clear, but showing only the completed installation. I does work flawlessly.
I also shorten (cut) the little spring in the hollow pivot shaft, the one that prevents the screw from loosening.
This allows the outer serrated washer to be deleted (it's useless) and lowers the profile of the protruding screw head a bit.
I also put LocTite on the screw threads, and lube the bushing and pivot bore in the safety lever with plastic-friendly GripShift grease.
The finished product is cosmetically perfect, you can't see the edges of the hole.
The washer is retained, preventing loose lever fit at the pivot, and the hood fully clears the moving safety lever.
I could take a picture if this is not clear, but showing only the completed installation. I does work flawlessly.
I also shorten (cut) the little spring in the hollow pivot shaft, the one that prevents the screw from loosening.
This allows the outer serrated washer to be deleted (it's useless) and lowers the profile of the protruding screw head a bit.
I also put LocTite on the screw threads, and lube the bushing and pivot bore in the safety lever with plastic-friendly GripShift grease.
Right now, I have a strip of cork tape under the hood too, per the normal way of wrapping bars. This is making the rubber bulge a little around the studs and the safety levers will brake but won't spring back to it's resting (unbraking) state.
Will cutting a larger hole for the washer, so that it can rest directly on the metal body, solve this problem?
Thanks for replying to this old thread!
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I think cutting a hole will work but can you send a few pics?
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Definitely, cutting a bigger hole around the washer is theway to go, so that the moving parts are constrained by all metal.
You just want to get the rubber out of the picture as far as getting the pivot to have a slop-free and flex-free hinge.
The tape under the hood could be an issue if there is still rubbing. If it's just the wrap-around piece then perhaps it could be shortened on the inboard sides of the lever body, just enough so that the lever clears the hood.
There's nothing "suicidal" about the safety levers on my bike, except that the front brake can easily put the rider over the bars with a hard squeeze of the lever. The pivoting action is smooth and solid with a free return action, and the tip of the safety lever doesn't even come close to threatening to slip off the top edge of the main lever under any circumstance.
On some bikes with safety levers, I will trim away a couple of millimeters from the lever body's front edge, which allows room for the safety lever's tip to restore full lever travel lost to the safety lever. There were even production levers with a notch cut at the front of the body to allow the levers to swing away from the bars to the full distance that existed before safety levers were fitted.
You just want to get the rubber out of the picture as far as getting the pivot to have a slop-free and flex-free hinge.
The tape under the hood could be an issue if there is still rubbing. If it's just the wrap-around piece then perhaps it could be shortened on the inboard sides of the lever body, just enough so that the lever clears the hood.
There's nothing "suicidal" about the safety levers on my bike, except that the front brake can easily put the rider over the bars with a hard squeeze of the lever. The pivoting action is smooth and solid with a free return action, and the tip of the safety lever doesn't even come close to threatening to slip off the top edge of the main lever under any circumstance.
On some bikes with safety levers, I will trim away a couple of millimeters from the lever body's front edge, which allows room for the safety lever's tip to restore full lever travel lost to the safety lever. There were even production levers with a notch cut at the front of the body to allow the levers to swing away from the bars to the full distance that existed before safety levers were fitted.
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Here are the pics. I've already put the cork tape on, so major changes could be challenging (for the handiwork-challenged such as myself). I think just cutting the rubber could be okay. Should I go ahead and cut the rubber in the size of the washer, along with cork tape if it's in that area? It's sounding like yes but I'd feel more reassured after folks have a look at the pictures, since there's no going back after cutting the rubber.
The levers were working perfectly fine before the hoods and wrap, so I don't feel unsafe or anything... and I personally really like the way the safety levers look.
Comments and tips appreciated!
Last edited by bounce; 05-14-12 at 09:54 PM.
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Yes, you've got clearance all the way around the post, so the hood should stay exactly where it is after you trim around the washer.
That's the key, having the hood clear the washer but without any noticeable gaps.
A sharp single-edge razor with a 45-degree point is recommended, in other words a box cutter blade.
And like I said, if you shorten the spring inside the post by 2 coils, then the screw can thread in a little further so you can delete the star washer.
That's an interesting treatment to the padded tape.
That's the key, having the hood clear the washer but without any noticeable gaps.
A sharp single-edge razor with a 45-degree point is recommended, in other words a box cutter blade.
And like I said, if you shorten the spring inside the post by 2 coils, then the screw can thread in a little further so you can delete the star washer.
That's an interesting treatment to the padded tape.
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Yes, you've got clearance all the way around the post, so the hood should stay exactly where it is after you trim around the washer.
That's the key, having the hood clear the washer but without any noticeable gaps.
A sharp single-edge razor with a 45-degree point is recommended, in other words a box cutter blade.
And like I said, if you shorten the spring inside the post by 2 coils, then the screw can thread in a little further so you can delete the star washer.
That's an interesting treatment to the padded tape.
That's the key, having the hood clear the washer but without any noticeable gaps.
A sharp single-edge razor with a 45-degree point is recommended, in other words a box cutter blade.
And like I said, if you shorten the spring inside the post by 2 coils, then the screw can thread in a little further so you can delete the star washer.
That's an interesting treatment to the padded tape.
I used six coats of amber shellac on yellow cork tape:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-tape-tutorial
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I have a 1973 World Voyager with safety levers, and man, they are awesome. If you have a nice pair with well tuned brakes, they are perfectly functional. CHEAP turkey levers suck - but I am a fan of a good set.
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Yes, you've got clearance all the way around the post, so the hood should stay exactly where it is after you trim around the washer.
That's the key, having the hood clear the washer but without any noticeable gaps.
A sharp single-edge razor with a 45-degree point is recommended, in other words a box cutter blade.
And like I said, if you shorten the spring inside the post by 2 coils, then the screw can thread in a little further so you can delete the star washer.
That's an interesting treatment to the padded tape.
That's the key, having the hood clear the washer but without any noticeable gaps.
A sharp single-edge razor with a 45-degree point is recommended, in other words a box cutter blade.
And like I said, if you shorten the spring inside the post by 2 coils, then the screw can thread in a little further so you can delete the star washer.
That's an interesting treatment to the padded tape.
Safety levers clear the rubber. I could probably slim them down some more but at this point they're functional and aesthetically pleasing.
Agreed. I have cross levers on a 2010 road bike. They serve their purpose but turkey wings have their place too
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Glad to hear the job went well on what looks like a nicely-detailed bike (let's see a full photo please).
No joke, I've used turkey levers for cyclocross racing and mountain-bike riding (at modest speeds!!!) over steep, technical terrain.
The way that these levers serve to allow one to descend with their hands on the top portion of the bars simulates a 15cm-shorter stem, which is the number one criterion for safe descending. This allows the rider to hang waaay back and still have brakes.
My turkey-levered touring bike (btw, with randyjawa's Shimano hoods, but in black):
No joke, I've used turkey levers for cyclocross racing and mountain-bike riding (at modest speeds!!!) over steep, technical terrain.
The way that these levers serve to allow one to descend with their hands on the top portion of the bars simulates a 15cm-shorter stem, which is the number one criterion for safe descending. This allows the rider to hang waaay back and still have brakes.
My turkey-levered touring bike (btw, with randyjawa's Shimano hoods, but in black):
Last edited by dddd; 05-17-12 at 02:03 PM.
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Glad to hear the job went well on what looks like a nicely-detailed bike (let's see a full photo please).
No joke, I've used turkey levers for cyclocross racing and mountain-bike riding (at modest speeds!!!) over steep, technical terrain.
The way that these levers serve to allow one to descend with their hands on the top portion of the bars simulates a 15cm-shorter stem, which is the number one criterion for safe descending. This allows the rider to hang waaay back and still have brakes.
My turkey-levered touring bike (btw, with randyjawa's Shimano hoods, but in black):
No joke, I've used turkey levers for cyclocross racing and mountain-bike riding (at modest speeds!!!) over steep, technical terrain.
The way that these levers serve to allow one to descend with their hands on the top portion of the bars simulates a 15cm-shorter stem, which is the number one criterion for safe descending. This allows the rider to hang waaay back and still have brakes.
My turkey-levered touring bike (btw, with randyjawa's Shimano hoods, but in black):
love the color of your miyata. And that pattern on the top tube! Did you leave the foam grips on?
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Thanks.
I had to use that Cinelli "logo" finishing tape for something, and it sure covers scratches well.
I believe those grips are all of 20-something years old. I've put several thousand more miles on them and the bike came with almost 3k miles already on the Huret meter.
only 5-10 years ago, these touring bikes were flooding into the thrift shops, generally for 20-40 dollars.
I had to use that Cinelli "logo" finishing tape for something, and it sure covers scratches well.
I believe those grips are all of 20-something years old. I've put several thousand more miles on them and the bike came with almost 3k miles already on the Huret meter.
only 5-10 years ago, these touring bikes were flooding into the thrift shops, generally for 20-40 dollars.