Any advice re touching up clearcoat on C&V carbon

[RFC]

I decided to rebuild the 1989 Look KG96. And since I have it stripped to the frame, I thought I would take a more methodical shot at touching the places where the clearcoat has bubbled or worn off.

In the past, I have used clear fingernail polish with mixed results. Sometimes it's ok, sometimes it becomes cloudy and chips off.

I would very much appreciate your advice about both substance and process.

Thanks,

RFC

[jyl]

I am interested too. My old carbon bike has some gouges on the stays, they almost want to be filled with something clear.

[Campagnerdo]

I too have a vintage carbon frame that has some peeled clear coat, exposing the weave. I plan to use a 2 part catalyzed clear used for automotive finishes. I am going to touch up the small areas instead of spray the whole thing.

[jrecoi]

May I suggest posting this in Framebuilders? I'm pretty sure there are some CF builders there that can help you out on finishes.

[RFC]

May I suggest posting this in Framebuilders? I'm pretty sure there are some CF builders there that can help you out on finishes.

Good idea. I will try that.

[puchfinnland]

2 component marine varnish. I use hempel or blakes brand- not sure avail in the states, gets really hard.

epoxy is no good- no UV protection.

Im a boatbuilder and this is common on carbon spars that cant hid from the elements

[RobbieTunes]

I've carefully sanded with 2000 grit and then shot craft shop clear, worked well.

[RFC]

I've carefully sanded with 2000 grit and then shot craft shop clear, worked well.

As always, thanks, Robbie.

Can you give me a little more detail about your process.

Did you sand and spray the entire frame or just the spots that needed it?

Light coats? How many?

Cheers

[RobbieTunes]

My carbon bikes are tube-only, so I mask at the lugs, sand the trouble spots to remove the scales, scuff up the rest of the tube, wipe down with mineral spirits, let dry, then shoot the tube with the clear. I always rub it down a bit with compound to make it smoother, then wax.

I've done the same with CF seatposts that have conspicuous lettering I prefer not to see. My CF Trek has zero defects (Thanks, Force) so there were no problems there, but the Ironman took some work on the DT between the bottle cage "inserts."

On a one-piece Kestrel Talon I had, I blocked off sections that had been scuffed in storage, did the same. When it dried, I feathered the edges with some rubbing compound and a foam wax applicator, then wiped carefully with some mineral spirits and let it dry, then waxed. You have to look for the "line" to find it.

The other alternative is simply mask the area, and shoot it, then you'll have a more defined line between the repair and the masked-off area, but sometimes that's less conspicuous.