(didn't read the thread) I don't care what anyone says if you're 6'1 you can ride a 58. Use a 100mm stem and deal with it, lower the bars, push the saddle BACK
(didn't read the thread) I don't care what anyone says if you're 6'1 you can ride a 58. Use a 100mm stem and deal with it, lower the bars, push the saddle BACK
Deut 6:5
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"Ha ha! You fool! You fell victim to one of the classic blunders - The most famous of which is 'never get involved in a land war in Asia'".
- Vizzini during his "battle of wits" with the Man in Black
Cross- 2010 Cannondale Quick CX Ultra (dropbar conversion)
Road- 2011 Litespeed M1
MTB- 2004 Santa Cruz Blur
Frame size is fine but your other components clearly need tweaking. A professional dynamic fit would serve you VERY well. As a general suggestion for someone jumping from MTB to road geometry consider a shim adjustable stem. My guess (pure guess looking at your pic) is that a 90-100 stem would work just fine for you. Getting one that will allow shim adjustment to change the rise will allow you to gradually alter your positioning as your body adapts to road cycling.
$650 with full Ultegra, Velocity Fusion wheelset, new cables, chain, bar wrap. Amazing condition and fully tuned. To think I was *this* close to buying a Specialized Roubaix Apex for $2,200... Don't get me wrong, it's a nice bike, but the TCR feels so much better, even without a perfect fit.
specialized puts these on nearly all new road bikes. I bet a lot of them end up on ebay or laying around in garage/basements. they have a huge range of adjustment with the eccentric shim, but they're not a fix-all because the length (obviously) can't be varied. if you had 2 or 3 in different lengths then you'd be set.
Cross- 2010 Cannondale Quick CX Ultra (dropbar conversion)
Road- 2011 Litespeed M1
MTB- 2004 Santa Cruz Blur
Hi
Watch out with the saddle setback. If you push it back too much, it could have a slow but steady impact on your hamstrings eventually causing an injury.
Which LBS?I am a fitter at a LBS in Toronto.
Which fit system?
DG
http://veloviewer.com/SigImage.phpa=62d63&r=3&c=5&u=M&g=p&f=abcdefijij&z=a.gif http://farnorthracing.com
Hello all,
Just an update: No ride yesterday, no new seatpost, no pictures. Sorry.
I did schedule a fit at the local Giant dealer for Friday evening. They don't offer a "professional" fit, but rather a "6 point, practical fit" that usually takes 30-45 minutes. $40. It's a reputable shop that's very well regarded around town.
So I'm sure it will help, and be $40 well spent, especially because about mid-day yesterday (the day after my 25 mile ride with my new adjustments), I felt a little numbness in my knees that I haven't experienced before. Not pain really, just a presence of pressure I guess. Also had a little numbness in my toes during the ride. I don't know if they're related or not. The shoes aren't too small, or tight, I know that. Maybe my cleat position is off, along with not having the saddle setback just right. Hopefully the fitter will fit the cleats on the pedal as part of the fit. I'm new to road biking, but I know how important it is to nip these issues early. I want to be riding for another 50 years.
they probably have tools to meassure ypur body. Be sure to write them down. I bet once ypu get the seatpost youll be able to fine tune your fit better.. Personaly id wait till your seatpost arrives.
To give you some encouragement...fit really is a work in progress. For example, I am installing some new handlebars on my roadbike right now. I am always fiddling with my fit and have been riding for probably as long as you have been alive.An open mind and a good student with discipline to train = a good rider. Can't really be one without these ingredients. You will have to try every permutation of fit before you are convinced you have found the best combo. 5mm's on a roadbike spells the difference between being dialed versus being 'off' and not feeling right. Good riders can feel less of a change.
Reading your posts, I believe you have the right attitude to becoming a good rider. You aren't going to arrive all at once...it is a process really and takes at least a couple of years of devotion. Many don't believe that riding a road bike is a skill. Its the same people I know that learn I routinely ride 50-60 miles when taking my bike out. They can't believe I can ride that far. I tell them that riding a bike is really about technique as much as fitness...but don't think they get it and never will without putting in the effort to becoming decent cyclists. Fit is hugely important. Good luck.
Last edited by Campag4life; 05-03-12 at 09:17 AM.
Cross- 2010 Cannondale Quick CX Ultra (dropbar conversion)
Road- 2011 Litespeed M1
MTB- 2004 Santa Cruz Blur
I wonder about this. What exactly is a "6-point practical fit". And at only 30-45 minutes, I'm wondering how much of a fit they can do. My first impression is that it will be a fit that any bike shop would provide upon an initial purchase. Minor things like adjusting all the easy stuff, such as seat post height, handlebar rotation, handlebar height, etc. For that little time, I don't think they will have time to adjust your cleats on the bottom of your shoes, or raise your break levers up or down on the bars, or play with different length stems. Maybe not even the fore and aft position of the seat. It sounds like you will get a good first cut or approximation of what you will ultimately need to have for highly efficient and pain-free cycling. I hope I'm wrong, but I think this 6-point practical fit will get you on the road, but you will find that you'll need to make further adjustments as time passes.
When you get home, before changing anything, closely measure everything and write it down. That way, if and when you start moving stuff around, you will always know where to go back to. On-line fit guides will show you what you need to measure and record.
Good luck. Please post after your weekend rides to let us know how the fit worked.
Deut 6:5
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"Ha ha! You fool! You fell victim to one of the classic blunders - The most famous of which is 'never get involved in a land war in Asia'".
- Vizzini during his "battle of wits" with the Man in Black
Even experienced riders go through some fit changes as our bodies change. Also as you know...if you then start to ride with fast guys...guys that like to drop one another...then fit has to change again versus just taking the bike out for a stroll. To ride fast one pretty much naturally inclines the torso forward to enlist the glutes to create power. Conversely...just cruising along...not much need for that and can ride more upright naturally.
On detail, is not the same to be fit in a trainer than go riding n the road for 3 hours. So sure the initial fit will be changed further on time.
You might just bring it with you and let them install it - they'll undoubtedly adjust up and down and fore and aft anyway.
And how. And might even have an "early season" vs. "late season" fit and also depends on hard you are going. The fit on my road bike that really seemed great last fall, seems a little stretched to me this spring. I swapped my 105 stem for a 100 and moved the levers up the bar just a tad and it feels much better. I also noticed that the stretched out doesn't feel as stretched out when I'm going hard w/ my buddies vs. by myself (when I tend to just ride at whatever pace my body and mind are telling me).
It would be great to hear what they say and do and another photo - similar to the first one - showing the difference. But give yourself at least 2-3 rides, a couple hours in the saddle before you decide you like or dislike the new fit.
Hm, let's guess the six points:
Saddle height
Saddle set back
cleat position
stem length
stem angle
lever position?
RE: the Specialized shim-adjustable stems. Like someone said, they're readily available on the Bay and also in Specialized bike shops - very cheap on Ebay, not too expensive new either.
ANybody can explain what is that about the specialized shimmed stems?? saw them the other day in ebay but couldnt figure it out why the shim is about, id to change the angle of the stem or something?