Where's the "should I go with steel or CF" thread?

[adrien]

Hi.

I went through this myself, and FWIW, chose custom steel.

Here's why and a wee bit about me. I like long, fast rides. As in 60-120 miles, averaging anywhere from 15 to 18 mph. I like hills, charity rides, and an occasional Gran Fondo. I also like a bike to have a distinct feel and personality, and have become a bit of an environmentalist.

I rode a lot of different bikes. At 41, I grew up on steel road bikes in the 80s, and have also owned aluminum, and most recently a steel production bike (Kona Kapu). I rode carbon from both trek and specialized (the latter a tarmac over 3 days and almost 200 miles). At 6'3 210, I'm not small and I am not a weight weenie.

Bottom line for me -- the carbon bikes didn't feel right. There was a cool precision to them which as a gadget fan I appreciated, but frankly didn't like. The Madone felt fine, but just that -- fine. The Tarmac felt cool, precise, and almost aloof. I got the feeling that it was very cool until the next model came out, and then it would just be last year's bike. How do owners of iPhone 3s feel right now?

I rode less steel, because I had owned it. The Kapu is a great ride, but almost a touring bike and a little flex and a little slow to turn. Some Italian steel bikes felt much more lively, and almost whippy. And I didn't notice the extra 2-3 lbs over the carbon. I also knew that custom bikes could be very highly tuned, and ended up ordering one from Ira Ryan. It is a machine with a real personality, and it is exactly what I had hoped.

[eippo1]

I checked out the Co-Motion website, and saw the prices...


And that's STEEL!

Check out Salsa or Gunnar perhaps for some other good steel w/o a huge budget.

[pallen]

I don't need exotic. I don't need top-o-the-line. I guess the bigger question is "What's a really good entry level road bike that's light enough to be competitive, but not too avant-garde that I'll feel like a poser if I get dropped after the first mile."

My Trek 660 had Ultegra, so I've always figured I'd go with something that had that groupset, but I'm sure the 105 stuff is just as effective, if not as light. (In any case, anything current would be waaaay more effective than that 23-year-old Ultegra stuff.)

You can search around here. There have been a lot of threads about reasonably priced good light steel frames. They are out there in the $2000 range. Might not be worth it to you unless you just really have a thing for steel.

[pallen]

Check out Salsa or Gunnar perhaps for some other good steel w/o a huge budget.

Yes, I've been really happy with Torelli as well. This is what I ended up with
http://www.torelli.com/frames/torell.../countach.html

[dtrain]

If you don't mind used, keep your eyes on C-List as you shop around. Here's one that posted this morning in the Portland area. It would be a pretty solid buy for someone looking for a steel framed roadie.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/bik/2993743501.html

[tiiger]

Yep, I check CL daily. Saw an aluminum (CF fork/seatstays) Trek 2.3 in my size (59/60ish) with upgraded wheels (Kysrium Elite) and Ultegra crank and derailleur. (105 stuff otherwise.) $1400, or $1150 if I wanted the stock wheels. I doubt I'll jump on it, but it's helping with the research/pricing and my expectations.



Question... they upgraded the derailleur, but went with a long cage. Why is that, ya think?

[merlinextraligh]

I'm really surprised to read that in the year 2012, people still believe that frame material has any significant bearing on ride quality.

I'm really surprised to read that in the year 2012, people still doubt that frames made of CF can be built to accomplish things that steel can't.

There's just no getting around the fact that you can dial in ride qualities, with carbon fiber (and the addition of other fibers into the frame) that cannot be replicated in steel, at least not at something approaching a similart weight.

Obvioulsy there's more to a bike's ride than the material its made from. But try to get a sub 800 gram frame with an extremely stiff front end, and bottom bracket, with a compliant vibration absorbing ride (such as a Supersix EVO,, or a Willier 7) made out of steel. It cannot be done.

Doesn't mean there isn't a place for steel bikes; it does mean that its delusional to think that frame material doesn't affect the charecteristics of a bike.

[vinfix]

Go with what feels good when you ride it and when you look at it. Until you get to be an "A" level rider in groups, or race, it doesn't matter.

I'm 49, ride fixed gear about 1/3, the rest on a modern steel frame with a straight blade fork but with 8 speed & downtube shifters. Bike is about 21#. It's comfortable on long rides (up to 100 km so far this year), on gravel/dirt w/25c tires. I recently started group rides, B & B+ level, no problem riding right along guys with carbon, titanium, modern Ultegra, DuraAce, etc. and I don't get dropped going up hills, either- I'm up front. The only differences I see on fast rides is acceleration, and it's hectic to shift as often & quickly with DT's.

That's not a universal endorsement of steel, geometry matters more. I've owned steel bikes that were uncomfortable, harsh, sluggish, or benefited greatly from a carbon fork.