I bought two pairs of these for my bikes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found that the pad doesn't fit on the front due to the fork being so close to the brake caliper. They work perfectly and awesome on the back.

Which ones am I supposed to use on the front?

If it helps, the bikes are a Bridgestone RB-1 with stock single pivot calipers and a Mercier galaxy sc3. I changed the calipers on the Mercier from the no name dual pivots to a NOS single pivot Shimano 600 set.

Thank you

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Dura...ords=Kool+Stop

^ These fit standard shimano-style brakes.

Thank you for the quick response.

Those inserts are the same size as regular pads aren't they? I thought I read somewhere that the ones that I bought have the offset design to prevent lifting on one side to maintain full contact with the rim. Is this only an option on the back due to the fork clearance?

Can you use the salmon pads on dry conditions?

Absolutely.

Which leads me to a related question.. if only using in dry conditions, do the salmon pads still provide more stopping power? I'd assume a shorter life of the pad though.

I've never noticed a shorter life, they are great all around pads.

I agree with LC....I am using them and I love them. They are nice and quiet, great stopping power, and inexpensive. I have heard great reviews about the dual compound version as well though.

Would the Kool Stop MTB work properly if I turned them around so the long part is forward?

I realize that the force applied will be the same as the smaller pads. I'm thinking that applying it over a larger area would be more effective.

Thoughts?

*note* We don't ride in the rain unless we're out and get caught in it. Even then, if it looks like rain, we don't ride.

Do you have road brakes? If so you are going to want to go with road pads.

I would easily trade off shorter life for the ability to stop going downhill if I get caught in the rain.

correct

also correct, as I said before they are inexpesive...https://www.ebay.com/itm/KOOL-STOP-Sa...item3cb2cf5244

Alright, I'll go with the inserts suggested on the front. The MTB work great on the back. We went for a short 8 mile loop a little while ago. With the Kool Stops on the back it felt like I was being ripped backwards when I applied them.

I ended up ordering these as I found that my pads were not the insert type. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014BRW6E . Odd, the price has gone up $2 since I ordered them.

I've installed them on the front. I still need to get them adjusted perfectly. They just barely clear the fork.

From the rides that we've done, the fronts are doing a lot more than they were before. The back MTB pads require a light touch to prevent locking up the tire.

also absolutely make sure they are shimano compatible. i bought some kool-stop pads once that just said "road pads" but turns out they were for campy brakes. said so in the fine print on the back....look for the "dura type" if your pads take inserts (there will be a little screw in the insert) or just buy the disposable shimano 105 pads.

I just installed V-brake pads (what you have) on my road calipers. The way around the issue is to take all of the hardware off of the inner side of the post, save one flat washer, and put it all on the outside of the caliper. V-brakes on road calipers may be ugly, but the stopping power is insane.

Can you explain why those pads are better on road calipers or provide a link please.

More braking area on the pad and closer to the rim. It makes quick-release a little harder, but the added surface area makes quite a bit of difference. There is no link to provide you because it is all personal experience. It was borne out of stock pads grinding down my rim (or so it felt) and having spare set of V-brake pads. I did a few searches on the mighty Google and tried it. Will post a few pics when the sun is up.

Here you go. This could be cleaner with more uniform washers. On yesterday's lunch ride, the route we took had a couple of downhills where 50 mph was easy to achieve. I am not comfortable over 40, and while proper and good road pads would be nice (I have Kool Stop Salmon road pads on one bike), I get a better feel with the larger pads.

I may never go back.

Doesn't that eliminate all ability to adjust toe-in?

OP- you are correct to go with the dura style pads with replaceable inserts, as you have with the front. The mtb pads may work in a pinch but it's a kludge. For what it's worth, there is no point in a rear brake that locks up. You will not stop faster but you can easily ruin a tire.

I was never able to toe-in on my FSA calipers. The washers pictured are curved to allow for adjustment. svtmike is right though - too much on the back and it is Skid City. I just like the feel of these better. Like the electronic shifting crowd raves about how easy it is to go from little to big, this is the same feeling in braking.

EDIT: I think it has more to do with the caliper angle. Having never been able to adjust toe-in on my other calipers, pads have always sat as they should, pretty flat with a little toe-in.

The washers and spacers are installed incorrectly.

If you move the smaller alloy washer and one steel washer inside the caliper you will see where the curved surfaces mate up. This will give you the toe in.

Also, it will allow you to open the calipers more which gives better modulation.

Try it and decide for yourself.

I tried that, Sir Robert, but the road caliper paired with the extensive hardware collection makes install impossible (pads too close together). I tried leaving off some hardware, but then the nut would not thread on far enough.All of the hardware is needed, it is the side of the caliper arm that matters. If the post were threaded all the way to the shoe, this would not be an issue :-\

I am truly an idiot. All I have to do to make this work is back off on cable tension/reset cable tension.

Carry on. Sorry for the hijack.