jrthorne

Hi, I've just changed the gear cable inner and outer to my campag rear derailier. The shift from the small cog to the big is perfect but when I go to change the other way big to small it releases the cable right the way round in one go!!! Don't where to go with this , not a problem I anticipated! Anyone know what's happening?
Thanks

ultraman6970

Im getting this part lose in the translation : "way round in one go!!!" I imagine you say that jumps all the way down from the biggest to the smallest cog?? If thats the case maybe the carrier is broken. what shifter model are we talking about here?

jrthorne

Yes, we're talking mirage qs 10 speed from about 2007,

ultraman6970

I was you I would just go and get a new lever, the reason is that no idea if you will find parts to fix that lever, no idea if the guts in the low end are like the record either.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Campagnolo-...ape-Shifter-07

THis is the link for the parts... but w/o opening the lever is hard to tell if the guts of the stuff you have are the same as the picture, and personally I never even had one of those mirage in my hands ever, maybe somebody knows. Either way you have to open the lever anyways to see the problem because sometihng is busted, the carrier, the springs or something else.

https://branfordbike.com/articles/cam...-2008-pg71.htm

Hope you are good taking appart things, worse case scenario if the guts are different is that you might need a new lever and those arent super expensive if you compare it with the high end stuff.

Good luck.

HillRider

First are you describing the front or rear shifting? If the rear shifter shifts all the way across the cassette from the largest to the smallest cog in one push of the mouse ear, then yes, something is seriously wrong. If the front shift goes from the big chainring to the smaller one in one click, that's normal as by 2007 Mirage and everything below Chorus made the front downshift in one click just like Shimano.

hueyhoolihan

if the OP had a functional shifter and RD before the cable change. the problem most likely has to do with the cable change. of course, the OP could have broken the shifter or RD during the installation.

Kimmo

I have a pair of QS 10s Centaur Ergos here I scored off a customer's bike because the right shifter does pretty much the same thing.

It'll shift to the big cog no problem, but going the other way I get three clicks and then on the fourth it lets go all the way...

Doesn't bode well, I don't rate my chances of fixing it; just got them for parts.

But you never know, I might be able to pull a rabbit out. Watch this space, I'll post an update when I get around to having a look at it.

catonec 

You replaced all the housing?

1) Did you use brake housing or deraileur housing? there is a difference.
2) Did you use the metal housing end caps on both ends of each section?
3) Is the cable routing internal? its possible the rear deraileur cable twisted around another cable in the down tube?
4) have you checked that all the housings are fully seated in the gussetts?
5) Did the inner wire get damaged and it has a broken barb sticking up somewhere in a housing?

The problem is most likely NOT your shifter or deraileur. Its what was last changed the cable and housing.

Kimmo

Nope - despite the coincidence, there's no way you could mess up a cable change to cause this particular fault.

And since I have a QS shifter here that's died in an identical failure mode, IMO we're definitely looking at just a coincidence here.

Besides, the OP might well have been suffering the fault beforehand and changed the cable in the hope of sorting it, but neglected to make that clear.

Kimmo

Okay, the good news is twofold - despite this being due to wear, it's fixable. And these are the simplest brifters I've worked on; easier than original Ergos, and easier even than DoubleTap.

So simple in fact, that dis/assembly instructions should be unnecessary - if you're competent enough to perform this repair, figuring out dis/assembly should be a piece of piss.

Although removing the hood can be trying - off the front, and twisting helps a lot. Watch out for the mouse ear hole, it's a weak spot. Quite a bit of force required, but not crazy heaps. Or you can just fold it out of the way.

So, here's your trouble. This pic shows the inside of the mouse ear, and where it's worn (I already cleaned away the debris for the pic).



The missing point is meant to engage those teeth and hold the barrel while the other internal bit of the mouse ear lifts the main indexing pawl. In my shifter it still works on the bigger teeth but they get too small to still work as the cable is released.

In this pic I've restored the point by dremelling towards the lower edge of what remains of the point. (See that spring? You will lose it for sure if you don't use extreme caution removing the mouse ear. BTW, you need to punch its pivot pin out from the front; a jeweller's screwdriver works.)



However, now the main pawl is lifted too early, before the point can engage the plastic ratchet and the problem persists. The solution is to reprofile the portion of the mouse ear that lifts the main pawl, requiring the mouse ear to be pushed a little further to release the cable.



Here you can see I didn't use enough patience and overcooked it. However, all is not lost; I merely needed to allow the button to be depressed a tad further. Best to employ a great deal of trial and error and remove only a little at a time from the main pawl cam instead, refitting and testing it.

Anyway, now the shifter works again. And I only modified a single part, which could probably sourced without too much trouble from a crash-damaged unit when it wears out again. The plastic ratchet is also worn, but only slightly.

To avoid this wear, I'd advise anyone with these QS shifters to always use a definite push on the button employing all its travel rather than a quick flick. Oddly enough it's a light press on the button that stresses the mechanism.

catonec 

cool right on Im glad you were able to fix your issue.
The things I suggested are far less complicated and easily checked.
Im not saying your wrong I just think he should verify his work before assuming an undisturbed component has completely failed.

ultraman6970

Neve expected that the low end was full plastic. From look at it you can tell the thing is simpler than the other models, interesting

HillRider

The things you suggested would explain erratic shifting and failure to shift reliably but not the sudden release that shifted across most of the cassette.

Kimmo

Easy enough to check; my money's on the shifter behaving the same without a cable attached.

Kimmo

This is Centaur, which isn't very low end at all; probably equivalent to 105. My guess is this fibre-reinforced plastic (it's pretty tough) is common to all the QuickShift Ergos. There are two other kinds IIRC... PowerShift and UltraShift?

It's just the intermediate ratchet that temporarily holds the barrel during a shift, and only in the direction of release. The main ratchet and pawl (behind the plastic one) are metal.