I haven't actually tested it out on the road or anything just yet but it seems to work just fine on this old mountain bike.
Yes, I'm asking a question too. I'm considering a similar rig for my touring bike, only instead of clamping to the rear rack I'd like to clamp to the frame near the head tube, so that I can continue to attach panniers to both sides of my rear rack should the need ever arise. It's a steel-framed 2008 Fuji Touring. Assuming I wrap some electrical tape around the frame or something to avoid scratching it, would this clamping damage the frame in any way?
Last edited by dsevil; 02-03-09 at 08:52 PM.
Reason: thread title change
I hang my U-Lock off the head tube, by using an old frame pump holder attached using hose clamps.
I just cut up an old inner tube and wrapped it around the spot the clamps attach.
I'm slightly skeptical of those hooks you're using, mainly because they're metal being clamped to other metal and I'd worry about them slipping or working out of position over time. Maybe if the top two hooks were a continous piece of steel bent in a loop instead of separate hooks....
I'd at least use 2 worm drive hose clamps instead of one for each.
you can mount the lock on the stem with some velcro twofish lockblocks, but let me tell you this, if you put the U-lock high up on the front end, it will be hard to walk the bike. you also want the weight centred as much as possible.
if it's a touring bike, you can get a front rack to put the lock on there.
That is an excellent idea! I use those same J-hook rope cleats on my 4gal bucket panniers, and I agree with the statement above: You should use a second clamp and maybe a section of inner tube between the metal hook and the metal rack to prevent slippage. Outside of that, terrific design.
If you were to turn all the hooks so they face the other way (in other words, so they are inside the shank) you could then lock the lock to them (open lock, slide up from bottom, lock lock in same position as shown)...then you should have no risk of it shaking out of the hooks.
I have Topeak Explorer rack. My Kryptonite Evolution Mini fits INSIDE the rack, suspended by the rack's own beams. I use a ball bungee to secure it tightly so it doesn't bounce out.
Finally tried out the rig on my mountain bike. Very little rattling unless I hit a bump or something. I will definitely need to use an old piece of inner tube though and do the double-clamp thing, as one of the hooks is already slipping.
I also just built my front-of-the-frame version of this rig on my touring bike. Tried it out for a bit last night.
My knee doesn't hit it or anything, but it does come close. (This is one of those things where your results may vary.)
My only complaint with it so far is that it makes it difficult to remove a water bottle from the cage mounted on the downtube, but that's only from one side.
Make sure the bottom of your U-lock won't hit the fender or tire when you steer.
@barturtle: As far as I can tell, the design of my rig is so that there is no risk of the lock shaking out of the hooks whatsoever. You have to lift it pretty much all the way up to get it out of there. Unless the hooks along the top somehow move an inch or so further apart all by themselves.
i can slip mine down between a rail and plate on my rack, handy place at times for short trips, but all i hear is *rattle rattle rattle* , gets to be annoying. What i usually do is slip my lock between my pants and belt on my left (in back), stays put, doesn't rattle or hit anything, and actually doesn't feel uncomfortable. Handy for locking up quickly, keeps the bike looking classy. If i'm going on a really long ride i'll just throw it in my pannier
I'm considering a similar rig for my touring bike, only instead of clamping to the rear rack I'd like to clamp to the frame near the head tube, so that I can continue to attach panniers to both sides of my rear rack should the need ever arise. It's a steel-framed 2008 Fuji Touring. Assuming I wrap some electrical tape around the frame or something to avoid scratching it, would this clamping damage the frame in any way?
If I was going touring, I would use a LOT lighter and smaller lock. Of course, it depends where you're going to be, and where you'll be leaving your bike, but when I'm touring I'm generally not in urban areas very much, and so such a lock would be overkill and I would deem it to be unnecessary baggage. A cheap cable lock is often all that I take with me on tour. Plus, touring bikes are not thief magnets like mountain bikes seem to be.
@thorsteno and others: The OEM mounts are crap, in my opinion. Mainly, they're hard to slip the lock in/out of. They seem sturdy, but I remember reading anecdotal evidence of reliability problems a few times on the Internet (they may not be using the mounts properly though).
i can slip mine down between a rail and plate on my rack, handy place at times for short trips, but all i hear is *rattle rattle rattle* , gets to be annoying. What i usually do is slip my lock between my pants and belt on my left (in back), stays put, doesn't rattle or hit anything, and actually doesn't feel uncomfortable. Handy for locking up quickly, keeps the bike looking classy. If i'm going on a really long ride i'll just throw it in my pannier
Same deal for me. I've wrapped a velcro cable tie around the U, and when it's on the rear rack I secure it to the frame. No more rattling. The cable tie dies after six months or thereabouts, but there only pennies apiece, so I keep spares on hand.
When was the last time a bicyclist fell asleep at the wheel and killed a family of four? It's the motorists that are the problem.
It cost 1.50, and it took me about 20 seconds to make
it's fully secure with absolutely no rattle.
I can remove it and install with very little effort
It doesn't interfere with panniers
It also holds many other things!
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I'm considering a similar rig for my touring bike, only instead of clamping to the rear rack I'd like to clamp to the frame near the head tube, so that I can continue to attach panniers to both sides of my rear rack should the need ever arise. It's a steel-framed 2008 Fuji Touring. Assuming I wrap some electrical tape around the frame or something to avoid scratching it, would this clamping damage the frame in any way?
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Originally Posted by dsevil
