Basically, there is plenty of room in the front fork and in the rear between the seat stays and rear brake bridge, however, there is very little room between the chainstays and behind the seat tube. Although the rear dropouts are about 1.5" long, only about 1" is usable, since the tire hits the seat tube if you move the wheel in more than an inch. I changed the gearing from 40x17 to 38x16 (same 64 gear inches) just so I could move the wheel back to provide clearance for removal without having to deflate the tire. At the position I've got it now there is room for a 28mm size tire and you might be able to squeeze a 32mm in there, but it would be a real tight fit. The tires I have now are 23mm wide tubulars.

Since other people may be watching this thread, I've posted additional photos of other changes/improvements that I've made. Gone are the ugly old Universal brakes levers with their rotting hoods and old hard cotton bar tape, and in their place are a pair of Dia Compe Aero Grand Comp levers with comfy ergo hoods and some sweet Arundel GeckoGrip soft bar tape. Since the levers are spring loaded, I didn't have to remove the lever handle on the dead grip. Also, note the cool Paul Comp dropout adjuster screws with their large machined knobs to permit tool-free adjustment. Finally, I came to the realization that the 27.2mm seatpost was the wrong size, even though that's what the specs said, and replaced it with a perfect fitting Kalloy 27.4mm silver machined 2-bolt seatpost. I also lowered the stem 5mm.

So far I've put about 400 miles on it and am very pleased with how it rides and performs. Come winter, I expect to change my clipless pedals from Look road to Shimano MTB SPD so I can use my MT51 shoes which are warm and walkable.

^^Yes some of us are watching the thread! Thank you for the in depth details. I'm really leaning towards buying one of these frames.

Hello everyone.

Sorry to bump up an old thread with my first post to the board.

I've been seriously considering the Visp frame for my first non-second hand build (been tinkering with old steel frames 'til now) as the tubing really appeals to me and the geometry suits me much better than the Leader's. Not to mention the price.

What is troubling me is the headset. Is it integrated or semi-integrated?

Never assembled a threadless headset. I'm not really worried about being able to do that, but the idea that breaking the headset would make the whole frame useless, disturbs me a bit.

Hi NOKTB,

The headset is not integrated, it is an internal (semi-integrated) design, made up of separate cup pieces that you press-fit into the head tube and a base plate on the fork crown. The bearings are separate sealed units. If it ever fails, you can remove the pieces and replace it. I was able to install the headtube cup pieces myself using a plastic mallet, but had to take the fork to my LBS to get the fork crown base plate piece installed with a proper driver tool. The headset that came with my frame was a Cane Creek VP-A41AC. The only difference between assembly of a threadless vs threaded headset is that instead of a threaded nut on top of the steerer tube, you have a cap that fits over the stem and a star bolt that fits inside the steerer tube to tighten and adjust the headset.

The new VISP has a different fork than mine with less rake and a more conventional rounded and curved shape. Also the top tube is shorter. So it should be quicker steering and have some toe/tire overlap. I have been pleased with mine. If you have any further questions, PM me.

Tejano

In theory this is a problem, but in practice, it's virtually impossible and rarely happens. Even Chris King has abandoned their anti-integrated headset stance after ten years.

Thanks a lot guys. I think I'll eventually end up getting one.

With a 54 cm frame having a 571mm F/C, I reckon I'll have about 1 cm toe-overlap riding with clips and straps, but as this is going to be built for track rather than as a hipster vehicle, that doesn't really concern me much. I just want to hang it on the wall and maybe take it to the track once or twice next summer.

If I decided to ride it on the streets, I'd probably get a cheapo crabon fork for the front with a bit more rake.

i ordered one. Figure with a good wheelset, and other quality parts, it shoudl be relatively light. not like fuji track pro light, but whatever

so i got it in, put together, and i have to say im impressed. Quality isnt perfect, some paint isnt great but everything fits well, and all that jazz. YOu can tuck a 23 into the seattube barely, a 20 woudl fit better, but yeah.
ill post up some pics later

Pictures please?

this weekend. ive been workign 12 horu shifts, so i get off when its dark

here is minez

Wow, you sure got that tire in tight! Looks like it came out real nice. It would help if you could photograph it outside in natural light against a solid white background.

its been poiring rain for like 5 days, so this was the best i could get
doesnt rub at all. if i throwa 20 on it i could push it in a bit more.

The setup looks like you're going to ride it on the road. Let us know how that new fork handles the bumps.

Haven't got one yet, but am ever so tempted as I'm getting my tax returns soon.

its fine man. ive been riding it alot. fork is fine. im gonna go to carbon only becuase of the weight

Soo, I eventually ordered one of these. Still waiting for it to arrive, but already thinking about replacing the fork

That leads me to asking dumb questions again. Can I use a fork designed for normal headsets, like this all-city steel fork with the Visp's internal headset?

Maybe. The headset accepts a 1-1/8" threadless fork, but the fork crown race might not fit. Even so, that fork will not match the steerer tube outer diameter and will at best look goofy.

This looks like a decent build... love them hubs.

Did any of the owners have problems like the frame not being true this or that way?

I am asking, as I just got mine and the rear dropouts are far from being parallel. Spacing is ranges between 115...118mm. I've never seen anything alike on a new frame, not even on an old trashy one.

Did anyone ever successfully* manage to contact that ebay seller mycycoole?

* like... getting an answer and stuff...

I never bought the frame, but I managed to successfully contact the seller on a few occasions through ebay's messaging system.

I did not have any problems with mine other than the seatpost size (it was 27.4mm instead of 27.2mm spec'd). Alignment and spacing were excellent. I never tried to contact the seller. Did you use PayPal? If the seller does not respond, you can file a claim.

its all awesome parts. just the frame is the only mediocre item

That is a function of the chain length, rear cog, and chainring. To fix this, either cut a new chain with one more link than your current one, or use smaller chain ring, or smaller rear cog. The new chain is the cheapest solution.

its a function of thats how i wanted it
and with a 20 series tire, it could be even closer.

i like the fitment on my bike, like hte fitment on my car.

flushhhhh

so i emailed the seller on ebay and ask for frame weight only w/o the fork

700Cx490 frame net weight is 1988 grams 700CX57CM freight net weight is 2200grams. Thank you!

those who have a visp or w/e can you confirm this?