Now, this is totally disregarding cost, and is probably not all that practical. Just what I imagine would be badass, with some stuff that may not exist. I wouldn't want to run my nice custom bike as a commuter.

*Columbus Zona Steel w/ carbon fork
*Fully housed cables w/ internal routing
*Similar geometry to my Crux, just optimized for myself
*1x10 SRAM Rival/Force groupset (brifters would be v-brake compatible haha)
*BB30 Bottom Bracket
*Paul Motolite Brakes
*3 Zipp 303 Tubular Wheelsets w/ Michelin Mud for wet stuff, Challengo Grifo XS for dry stuff, and Specialized Tracer for the pit wheels (these are pretty good all-around tires, imho)

I kinda wish CX had done with their rules what Keirin did. The market would still be friendly to steel and lugs if it weren't driven by amateur riders wanting to emulate the AL/Carbon/TI/whateva pro setups.

Lugged frameset with lugged, threaded straight-blade fork. Horizontal TT. 55cm c-t, 54cm c-c. I hate that so many framebuilders reverse these two measurements and you get stretched out over the frame as a result.

Some kind of quill stem whose front entry clamp that accepts a 31.6 bar so I can use my Shamano compact. Best bar ever because of the reach. Salsa Poco is #2 but they don't come in silver.

Campagnolo 8-speed Ergo with extra parts to replace everything. Everything else seems to be a pain to match unless you buy it all new and then you'll just have to replace it in a couple of years. Might be better to just have friction Bar-cons and learn to use them, so upgrading every five or six years doesn't have to happen. New Campy cantis as well.

Wheeles and tires- TBD.

Is Airbourne back in business? I had an Airbourne years ago and it had every braze on you can imagine and disk or canti lever mounts. I really wish I never sold that bike it was awesome, except for one reason, it was a compact frame.

If I could have a custom bike it would be a Richard Sachs, full Campy... Dream on.

All Ti frame and fork because there is no corrosion issue ..
and resilient for crashing, running off the course, etc.
.. double-shielded sealed bearings, that keep water,
even from pressure washers, out.

TM, Sibex went out of biz, by now.. Ya all didn't buy enough..

I know you prefaced your post with the disclaimer of impracticality, but I am compelled to point out few things

My Circle A is ZOna with an alpha q Cx10 fork (no longer made) ... me likey

internal routing not so good for CX because of the frequency of maintenance

gore ride on is best choice for a semi sealed system (still gotta replace though, about 1/4 the interval of standard systems)

BB30 while stiff sucks for CX, bearings foul rapidly from all the bike washing (unless you enjoy removing BB30 bearing cleaning and re-greasing twice a month or your pro and have a mechanic to worry about it for you) GXP is better from a the standpoint of maintenance and the weight and stiffness gain of the BB30 is not mind blowing enough to justify it IMO.

Muds are not made in tubular

They are, if you are well-connected enough. [FWIW the Mud is a great all-rounder tread but not, ironically, for mud. Rhino or Limus for that.]

The Foundry Augur looks like just about what I'd want in a disc race bike, except I'd prefer standard BB shell.

There are a few carbon tubular 29er rims out there, I'm guessing they'd work pretty dang well for cross. So if we're talking money no option, get me a pair of those Enve jobbers on Chris King hubs, please.

Have you looked at the Uncle John frame from Planet X and building it up? The Planet X standard build doesn't fit your list but I just built my own custom build that is probably close.

1. aluminum Planet X Uncle John frame (mine is a medium, they size quite big)
2. carbon fork (I built mine with a shop4cross carbon disc fork, others are available, eg Kinesis)
3. internal cable routing fully housed - doesn't do this
4. disc brakes (frame has disc tabs and canti bosses, I built mine up with a Hope Tech V-Twin hydraulic disc converter but BB5 or 7 would be a cheaper option)
5. decent group set such as 105 or apex (mine is running a 105 groupset except for shifters which I intend to update at some point)
6. and of course a sub 2k price probably just about if you shop around for parts.

Shout if you want to know more.

if there were a carbon framed cross bike with disc brakes, thats the only bike I would ever need. I would thin the herd down to one.

https://foundrycycles.com/bikes/auger

Foundry is a QBP brand, meaning you can get one through almost any bike shop. The Auger is available in two different builds, and as a frameset too AFAIK.

thanks for the link. those are some slick bikes. who knows I may end up with one.

That Auger disc model has me jonesing to replace my Fantom Cross Outlaw.

Ok in response to these comments not every bike shop can get these brands you have to have a contract to be a dealer of that brand which means having to sell or buy a certain quantity of that brand. I work at a coop and we get qbp and I cant order either of those brands as I have been wanting a ridley xfire or xnight really bad. Salsa is the same way as well. Now surly and all city can be bought by any shop without contract. Now with that said the you would be better at looking at ebay or going with a Chinese frame unless you want to spend 1.5-2k on the frameset alone.

My bike
carbon/Ti frame with rack mounts
NO internal cable routing( if you havent done it personally you wont realize how much of a headache it can be if a liner isnt installed at factory)
sram drivetrain{in progress with rival shifters, red crank, and rival derailurs**
AC\Alpha 340 wheelset(32 spoke 3 cross with revolution){in progress of being built**

Basically my current bike that is built on a surly CC but with a carbon or ti frame.
I would even like to keep a 8cm drop for saddle to bars which i have on my 46cm CC(love its geometery just too heavy)

1. Bigger legs
2. Bigger lungs
3. Smaller belly
4. Better technical skills

- Not picky on material. Light though.
- Disc only since that's how things are going.
- Track ends or sliders. Would be SS all or most of the time.
- Looow BB.
- Lots of nice wheels.
- I dunno?

Honestly for a race bike none of those things is super critical to me and I'd be willing to flex on most points. The specialized Crux disc with an EBB would check most boxes. Too bad I dislike the company.

yeah that's not fair, and for the record he'll glue what ever the hell tread you want, you don't really need to be well connected either anybody can send him a tread.

Steel
Couplers (I travel for work)
Disks
Room for 45C tires
Force/XO 2x10
Velocity blunt sl to dt 240s

I have everything except the frame and Waterford is currently building that for me.... Loosely based on the salsa Vaya I'm on right now. Can't wait!

Gunnar Fastlane 56cm (True Temper OX Platinum air hardening steel frame built by Waterford Precision Cycles on January, 2012), Gunnar black with matching unicrown fork
Chris King NoThreadset headset, silver
Shimano 105 5700 grouppo in black, with exception of the shifters, which are in silver.
Ritchey Classic handlebar, stem in 110mm, and seat post, all in silver
Mavic A319 wheels (silver) 32h, hand built with DT double butted spokes, XT hubs, and brass nipples by River City Bikes, Portland, Or
Avid BB7 disk brakes
Continental Top Contact tires in 700x32c
SKS P45 Fenders in black with leather mud flaps
Cateye computer
Jandd Mountaineering rear rack, black
Stainless Steel water bottle cage
Brooks B-17 Special saddle in honey
Brooks bar tape in honey, with gel inserts