My bike(s) accounts for roughly 6-7% of my rolling weight.

Knowing that, I've never really felt a need to worry about it that much.

I havent weighed mine, but to me it isnt the weight of the bike, but how much it can haul. I'd say that with the Xtra, Peapod, lights, GPS, grocery bags, tools, and parts, I'm well over 60lbs. My wife's Xtra is a little bit lighter since she doesnt carry the Peapod, tools or parts, but she has a heavier frame (dont tell her I said that), so if anything the weight is more balanced across the length of the bike.

We did get groceries last week and managed to pack almost $200 worth on the two bikes. I felt the weight of that trip

I have one lightish bike. It is my all aluminum hybrid bike with an ultegra crankset and sram x5 components and some lowish spoke count Alex wheels. I have no idea what it weighs but its neat to pick up and go "oh neat, that is light!".

I ride my steel bikes far more before I broke my leg even though they weigh quite a bit more.

I didn't read all of the other posts but for the most part there is no standard for weighing bikes. Some will weigh the smallest bike a post that weight and there can be a significant difference between a 48 and a 62 (and when I say significant, I mean small - say 1/2 a pound or so). The lightest bike is not always the best bike for a particular ??? (jeez I can't think of the word) . Oh, application.

2012 Specialized Roubaix Comp Compact - stock- (700 x 25 Specialized All Condition Armadillo tires ) - 18.5 lbs

2011 Genisis Trafik 5.0 Hybrid - "Fredded" to the max - (700 x 28 Bontrager All Weather Race Hard Case) - 34.5 lbs

57 cm Volagi, maybe 17.5 lbs (w/o pedals and cages)
Large/small daVinci tandem, 35 lbs or so bare

And just how many professionals are hanging around reading message boards about cycling?

Short answer, too damn much.

At the LBS that I used to go to they had a couple of scales for measuring the weight of the bikes that they sold.

But in my case I'm not so worried about weight. It doesn't really bother me that my bike weighs as much as an APC, or a half-track. Or that I'd need to take it to a truck stop to weigh it.

It gets me from point a to point b and does so at a respectable speed, at least to me it's a respectable speed. And that's all I need to know.

You know, I still haven't spotted you on the trail..

And I think mine weighs 18-19lbs? Not exactly sure. I am a clyde so the weight of my bicycle isn't my concern..

I've gotta say that I am glad to hear someone say that. As I've thought of that myself before.

As with everything there is a point of diminishing returns. If one were to get a bike super, mega, ultra-light they run the risk of it breaking into a pile of useless parts the first time that they hit the smallest bump in the road.

My business partner has a great answer for this when people ask what a certain bicycle weighs... his reply is that they weigh exactly as much as they needs to for what it is designed to do.

My racing bikes are relatively light and weigh about half as much as my more more utilitarian bicycles but all they have to carry is my 155 pound frame and minimal gear.

It wouldn't surprise me if my bike weighed somewhere around there as well.

I was out there this past Tuesday. And I think I'll be there again Saturday. Just look for the silver/aluminum colored Giant 2009 Seek 2 that's loaded down. If I'm on the trail this Saturday I'll be wearing Bicycle Outfitters "Hurricane" jersey.

Agreed, I think that weight only really matters to those who race, not to those who commute/utility ride.

stripped down/race ready/ 16.25

with: water-bottles, tool bag, computer, pump, light, almost 20

Not true, really. The bikes the pros ride in the big races don't fall apart under rough handling - have you ever looked at the cobbles they race over in Paris-Roubaix? - but are so light that they have to add weights to the frames in order to meet the UCI minimum weight requirement. The disincentive to buying the lightest possible road bike is not fragility, but cost.

Weight matters a great deal if one wants to race successfully, and it matters more for road-racers than those on the track. It does not matter for those who are cycling recreationally, except that those who are skinny will tend to speed up the hills faster than those who are fat. Marginal differences in the weight of the bike itself are secondary.

The three bikes in my sig line are 21lbs, 22lbs, 25lbs. They are all smaller framed, stripped down of non-essentials, and lightened with better components.

The PRE is my fogline bike with the aluminum frame. The Trek is the one for 20-30mi personal TT's.

Lightest to Heaviest (without repair kit or full water bottles):

- carbon road bike ~17.25 lbs
- steel fixed gear conversion ~ 23 lbs
- 1970s steel sports tourer ~26.5 lbs
- steel touring bike ~29.5 lbs
- aluminum dual suspension mtb ~ 32 lbs


Then, fully loaded:
- steel touring bike ~69 lbs

They all ride fine.

The bike shown is my steel touring bike partly loaded. The weight included bike, fenders, racks, panniers, air pump and tools. It didn’t include camping items, water, food cloths and all the rest. Out of the box it’s a heavy bike about 27 pounds with racks and day to day commuting stuff 35 pounds, as shown 45 pounds and heading off for a weekend trip about 75 pounds. The bigger problem is taking weight off the seat post.

On the at-work 50#-capacity digital fish scale, my Kona Coiler weighs 36lb, 10oz.

Rolls like 33.

Enough to make a weight weenie get the heaves...

Aaron

Sixty Fiver mentioned it and rolling resistance. In other words the weight of wheels and tyres (And Quality) can affect the ridability and speed.

My first road bike was a Giant OCR3. Bit basic and weighed in at 19.5 lbs. I coasted down a hill and got to a top speed of 30mph and had to steer round the curve halfway down. Problem was that my MTB with knobblies got to 37mph on this hill. Talked to the LBS and a set of handuilt wheels and 700x23 Michelin PR2 tyres later and I tackled the hill again. The curve was just a bit more lean and top speed was just under 40mph. On each occasion this was coasting from the top so can't put it down to extra momentum after the slope to the start.

Stock OM wheels and the tyres fitted to them are one of the Downgrades to keep prices down on most bikes. It has been said many times by others that the best upgrade you can do to a bike is get better wheels and I would add tyres to that aswell.

I now have a variety of wheels and putting the lightweight quality wheels on any of my bikes does give an improvement. As all my tyres are Michelin PR2/3 on all the wheels- tyres are just co-incidental.

My bikes and their weights:

Ti mtb weight - Don't know
Steel road racing bike weight - Don't know
Steel touring/commuting bike weight - Don't know

I figure if I could make my bikes lighter I would be able to go faster. Also, if a frog had longer legs he wouldn't bump his ass on the ground when hopping.

Most recumbents are heavier than comparable-quality safety bikes; my singles each weigh about thirty pounds. The tandem approaches fifty.

I weighed my lowly Schwinn aluminum-steel hybrid at the post office. After hours, on the scale in the lobby. Lifted the front up so it balanced on its rear wheel, and ...

29 pounds. groan