Second (more upright) handlebar position for Jamis Coda Sport?
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Second (more upright) handlebar position for Jamis Coda Sport?
My Jamis Coda Sport has a fairly aggressive flat-bar rider position -- which is exactly what I need 90 percent of the time. Sometimes, however, I'd like a second hand position -- NOT a more "aero" position (I'm already aero enough), but an upright "comfort bike" position so I can flex by back, straighten out my neck, and take in a better view for a minute or two before going back to my regular position.
Is there some kind of handlebar or bar-end arrangement that would give me both the Coda's default aggressive position and a more upright position? Maybe bar ends that sweep straight back (or back and slightly downward), or a handlebar like this Nitto, only flipped toward me?.... https://www.amazon.com/Nitto-B263AA-b.../dp/B005M9CND6
Is there some kind of handlebar or bar-end arrangement that would give me both the Coda's default aggressive position and a more upright position? Maybe bar ends that sweep straight back (or back and slightly downward), or a handlebar like this Nitto, only flipped toward me?.... https://www.amazon.com/Nitto-B263AA-b.../dp/B005M9CND6
Last edited by ganchan; 09-22-15 at 08:10 PM.
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Have you looked at trekking bars? If not, the ol drop bar does all that albeit at a higher cost.
You can also google "alt bars" for other options.
I wouldnt recommend an adjustable stem for on-the-fly adjustments. Changing angles on that stem requires practically disassembling the entire front end
You can also google "alt bars" for other options.
I wouldnt recommend an adjustable stem for on-the-fly adjustments. Changing angles on that stem requires practically disassembling the entire front end
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Yeah, a North Road or similar has the classic look that would go well with this bike. But from my current rider position, leaning into the bar as I am, it's hard to visualize what the different bar shape would do to my position -- and I think the default position might be a little more upright than ideal. Anyone here tried this style of bar on Jamis Coda Sport?
What about mustache bars? Are the inner sections of the bar comfortable to ride in for extended periods?
Regarding the trekking bar, I'm not sure how that style would give me a more upright option. Would I maybe raise the stem, so that the aero position on the trekking bars equals my current flat-bar level? I'm not real familiar with this bar's various possibilities....
What about mustache bars? Are the inner sections of the bar comfortable to ride in for extended periods?
Regarding the trekking bar, I'm not sure how that style would give me a more upright option. Would I maybe raise the stem, so that the aero position on the trekking bars equals my current flat-bar level? I'm not real familiar with this bar's various possibilities....
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I would use a shorter and/or more upright stem with the stock bars, then install a set of bar ends to get close to the original stretched out position.
FWIW, this is what makes drop bars so great - they give multiple hand positions without modifications - set them up so riding on the brake hoods or in the drops is comfortable most of the time, then use the bar tops as an upright position. If you use my above idea of shorter stem and bar ends, the bar ends can duplicate riding on the brake hoods - the most commonly used drop bar position.
Also, when I really want to sit up and relax for a few minutes, I ride no hands and stretch my back and neck out.
FWIW, this is what makes drop bars so great - they give multiple hand positions without modifications - set them up so riding on the brake hoods or in the drops is comfortable most of the time, then use the bar tops as an upright position. If you use my above idea of shorter stem and bar ends, the bar ends can duplicate riding on the brake hoods - the most commonly used drop bar position.
Also, when I really want to sit up and relax for a few minutes, I ride no hands and stretch my back and neck out.
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A shorter reach effectively raises your position.
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Its seven bolts at least. Eight if you loosen the preload
This stem requires removing the faceplate in order to seperate it enough to change the angle. Plus, the handlebar angle changes when your stem angle changes. However, loosening it is not enough to change the angle.
I dont remember if the top cap can stay or not, but at this point your front end is practically undone.
I have one, and I wouldnt recommend it for on-the-fly adjustments. Maybe yours is different
This stem requires removing the faceplate in order to seperate it enough to change the angle. Plus, the handlebar angle changes when your stem angle changes. However, loosening it is not enough to change the angle.
I dont remember if the top cap can stay or not, but at this point your front end is practically undone.
I have one, and I wouldnt recommend it for on-the-fly adjustments. Maybe yours is different
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I had a similar stem to the one Doctor Morbius mentioned - actually on a Coda Sport - and it required exactly three screws to adjust the stem: the angle bolt on the side of the stem and two of the bolts in the front plate of the stem to allow you to slightly rotate the handlebar within the stem so your brake levers and shifters retain their position relative to the bar.
This was the more upright position:
This was the more upright position:
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Its seven bolts at least. Eight if you loosen the preload
This stem requires removing the faceplate in order to seperate it enough to change the angle. Plus, the handlebar angle changes when your stem angle changes. However, loosening it is not enough to change the angle.
I dont remember if the top cap can stay or not, but at this point your front end is practically undone.
I have one, and I wouldnt recommend it for on-the-fly adjustments. Maybe yours is different
This stem requires removing the faceplate in order to seperate it enough to change the angle. Plus, the handlebar angle changes when your stem angle changes. However, loosening it is not enough to change the angle.
I dont remember if the top cap can stay or not, but at this point your front end is practically undone.
I have one, and I wouldnt recommend it for on-the-fly adjustments. Maybe yours is different
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I would use a shorter and/or more upright stem with the stock bars, then install a set of bar ends to get close to the original stretched out position.
FWIW, this is what makes drop bars so great - they give multiple hand positions without modifications - set them up so riding on the brake hoods or in the drops is comfortable most of the time, then use the bar tops as an upright position. If you use my above idea of shorter stem and bar ends, the bar ends can duplicate riding on the brake hoods - the most commonly used drop bar position.
Also, when I really want to sit up and relax for a few minutes, I ride no hands and stretch my back and neck out.
FWIW, this is what makes drop bars so great - they give multiple hand positions without modifications - set them up so riding on the brake hoods or in the drops is comfortable most of the time, then use the bar tops as an upright position. If you use my above idea of shorter stem and bar ends, the bar ends can duplicate riding on the brake hoods - the most commonly used drop bar position.
Also, when I really want to sit up and relax for a few minutes, I ride no hands and stretch my back and neck out.
Unfortunately, switching from flat bars to drops is a bit expensive and cumbersome, and so you might want to look into bar ends, swept back bars, riser bars, or trekking bars.
Another possibility is the Jones H bar, which offers a wide, swept back position, a neutral position, and an aero position. Another variation of this is the Velo Orange Casey Crazy bar.
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Its been a while since I regreased that headset so I tore it apart.
Here is why you need to disassemble the entire stem on the model you first posted: the detents are the entire length of the bore. It makes for a strong connection but assembly / reassembly is a chore, especially since the large screw acts as a third cinch bolt. It turns out that you don't need to remove the faceplate completely, but the preload cap needs to be loosened and readjusted. So its six bolts on this particular stem
The stem I have is identical to the first picture you posted.
In any case, I still wouldn't recommend an adjustable stem for OP. Do you guys really dismount, adjust the stem, and ride on? A proper handlebar set to the right height seems like a better option.
Adjustable stems are great for finding your ideal position on a new bike, but on-the-fly adjustments seem too much of a hassle - even if it is "only" 3 bolts.
Here is why you need to disassemble the entire stem on the model you first posted: the detents are the entire length of the bore. It makes for a strong connection but assembly / reassembly is a chore, especially since the large screw acts as a third cinch bolt. It turns out that you don't need to remove the faceplate completely, but the preload cap needs to be loosened and readjusted. So its six bolts on this particular stem
The stem I have is identical to the first picture you posted.
In any case, I still wouldn't recommend an adjustable stem for OP. Do you guys really dismount, adjust the stem, and ride on? A proper handlebar set to the right height seems like a better option.
Adjustable stems are great for finding your ideal position on a new bike, but on-the-fly adjustments seem too much of a hassle - even if it is "only" 3 bolts.
Last edited by DorkDisk; 04-14-20 at 06:51 PM.
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Oddly enough, on yesterday's ride I felt more upright than I had previously. Maybe it's a matter of perspective, or of getting used to the new posture after coming from a comfort bike.
Last edited by ganchan; 09-24-15 at 11:11 AM.
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Of those two, the Velo is definitely closer to my budget range, though trekking bars would be closer still. Never been a big fan of bike tape in general, but maybe I can get some rubberized "grip gloves" that would make it a non-issue....
Oddly enough, on yesterday's ride I felt more upright than I had previously. Maybe it's a matter of perspective, or of getting used to the new posture after coming from a comfort bike.
Oddly enough, on yesterday's ride I felt more upright than I had previously. Maybe it's a matter of perspective, or of getting used to the new posture after coming from a comfort bike.
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I had an earlier version of those - I can't remember who made them but they looked pretty much identical. They were the least comfortable handlebar I have ever used. I gave them to my buddy who uses them on his café bike, but acknowledges that they are hella uncomfortable and he wouldn't use them if the café was more than one km away.
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I had an earlier version of those - I can't remember who made them but they looked pretty much identical. They were the least comfortable handlebar I have ever used. I gave them to my buddy who uses them on his café bike, but acknowledges that they are hella uncomfortable and he wouldn't use them if the café was more than one km away.
So far in my researches, Albatross bars are leading the field in terms of wrist comfort. but I was riding my flat bar today, and honestly, I'm not quite sure how much room for sweep-back I've got. I like the idea of a more natural wrist position in the longterm, because I'm a writer and I want to protect the ol' carpal tunnels and such. So far, though, the flat bar isn't causing any significant discomfort. The ergonomic grips on it also let me rest on my palms, which might not be good in the long run but at least takes my thumbs out of the equation. (I have arthritis in the top joint of both thumbs.) I wonder if a North Road-style bar would create any extra thumb pressure.... I'd better talk to my LBS....
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That'a a pity. I like the minimal rise on them....
So far in my researches, Albatross bars are leading the field in terms of wrist comfort. but I was riding my flat bar today, and honestly, I'm not quite sure how much room for sweep-back I've got. I like the idea of a more natural wrist position in the longterm, because I'm a writer and I want to protect the ol' carpal tunnels and such. So far, though, the flat bar isn't causing any significant discomfort. The ergonomic grips on it also let me rest on my palms, which might not be good in the long run but at least takes my thumbs out of the equation. (I have arthritis in the top joint of both thumbs.) I wonder if a North Road-style bar would create any extra thumb pressure.... I'd better talk to my LBS....
So far in my researches, Albatross bars are leading the field in terms of wrist comfort. but I was riding my flat bar today, and honestly, I'm not quite sure how much room for sweep-back I've got. I like the idea of a more natural wrist position in the longterm, because I'm a writer and I want to protect the ol' carpal tunnels and such. So far, though, the flat bar isn't causing any significant discomfort. The ergonomic grips on it also let me rest on my palms, which might not be good in the long run but at least takes my thumbs out of the equation. (I have arthritis in the top joint of both thumbs.) I wonder if a North Road-style bar would create any extra thumb pressure.... I'd better talk to my LBS....
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