Triple to double
#1
JOCP Senior Advisor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fort Worth/Keller Texas
Posts: 1,061
Bikes: 1979 Shcwinn Varsity, 2005 Speciazlied Transition Multi-Sport, 2005 Specailized Sirrus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Triple to double
Would it be easier/better to let a bike shop convert a bike from a triple crank to a double? It will cost me 100 for them to do it or 80 for me to buy the part and do it my self.
Elvish
Elvish
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by Elvish Legion
Would it be easier/better to let a bike shop convert a bike from a triple crank to a double? It will cost me 100 for them to do it or 80 for me to buy the part and do it my self.
Elvish
Elvish
#3
JOCP Senior Advisor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fort Worth/Keller Texas
Posts: 1,061
Bikes: 1979 Shcwinn Varsity, 2005 Speciazlied Transition Multi-Sport, 2005 Specailized Sirrus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sydney
If you have to ask,the answer should be obvious.They may try and sell you more stuff than you really have to have.
Elvish
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by Elvish Legion
I think I may just end up having them do it and feel better knowing its done right.
Elvish
Elvish
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Elvish Legion
Would it be easier/better to let a bike shop convert a bike from a triple crank to a double? It will cost me 100 for them to do it or 80 for me to buy the part and do it my self.
Elvish
Elvish
#6
JOCP Senior Advisor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fort Worth/Keller Texas
Posts: 1,061
Bikes: 1979 Shcwinn Varsity, 2005 Speciazlied Transition Multi-Sport, 2005 Specailized Sirrus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by capwater
The part? More than just cranks are needed. You'll need a new bottom bracket and while not a must have a new short cage rear derailler. They are going to do all this for $100? Even 105 level cranks are close to $80 just for parts. A BB will run 35 - 40 bucks, the derailler about 40 also.
So 100 is a good deal then?
Elvish
#7
Beamish enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Libertyville, IL
Posts: 163
Bikes: '87 Trek 560 Pro Series (Reynolds 531 goodness)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What "part" are you referring to?
It depends on what you're getting for that money. They may just remove the smallest chain ring and then adjust the limits on your front derailleur - instant double (although not exactly proper), in which case $100 would seem to be a huge ripoff. What exactly are you getting for $100?
Why do you need the double?
It depends on what you're getting for that money. They may just remove the smallest chain ring and then adjust the limits on your front derailleur - instant double (although not exactly proper), in which case $100 would seem to be a huge ripoff. What exactly are you getting for $100?
Why do you need the double?
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mid-Michigan
Posts: 69
Bikes: Colnago with Campy groupset, Gary Fischer with Shimano groupset and my beater bike, a 1989 Maruishi SC competition road bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Parts? I converted my triple to a double by removing my "granny" ring. I just make sure to keep my head out my a$$ when shifting so I don't drop the chain. I did it to lose the extra weight of a ring I don't use. Now if you want to go to a double and change your ring sizes then you'll need more parts as someone above has pointed out.
-dan
-dan
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: arlington, VA
Posts: 1,764
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
Originally Posted by kea423
Parts? I converted my triple to a double by removing my "granny" ring. I just make sure to keep my head out my a$$ when shifting so I don't drop the chain. I did it to lose the extra weight of a ring I don't use. Now if you want to go to a double and change your ring sizes then you'll need more parts as someone above has pointed out.
-dan
-dan
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kea423
Parts? I converted my triple to a double by removing my "granny" ring. I did it to lose the extra weight of a ring I don't use.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Elvish Legion
So 100 is a good deal then?
Elvish
Elvish
#12
Hopped up on goofballs
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Severna Park, MD
Posts: 107
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is this question the same as the one that you posted on the 'Road Cycling' Forum?
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/118051-crank.html
If so, why did you post it in two places and why did you present the question differently each time?
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/118051-crank.html
If so, why did you post it in two places and why did you present the question differently each time?
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by yakes_md
Is this question the same as the one that you posted on the 'Road Cycling' Forum?
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=118051
If so, why did you post it in two places and why did you present the question differently each time?
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=118051
If so, why did you post it in two places and why did you present the question differently each time?
Just ride it as is.
#14
No one carries the DogBoy
I disagree with the "if you have to ask" philosophy. If you don't know something you have to ask (or read) about how to do it. You can't know it without asking, so hey, if you want to learn how to wrench your own bike, and can see changing bottom brackets & cranks again in the future then do it yourself. If you prefer to let someone else mess with it, pay the shop.
As others have said, you need to know what is included in the $100. The work involved is (assuming you don't change the rear derailleur):
Remove pedals, Remove current cranks, remove bottom bracket, install new bottom bracket, install new cranks, install pedals, adjust derailleur limit screws, adjust derailleur cable tension.
If you are also changing the rear derailleur: Break the chain, remove derailleur, Install new derailleur, thread chain, reconnect the chain, adjust limit screws, adjust tension, adjust B-angle screw. (assuming your derailleur hanger is not damaged)
This should take an experienced wrench about 30 min (45-60 with rear), so a "fair" labor charge is somewhere around $30 - $40 ($60-$80). These may actually be a bit high. A full build at my local LBS only costs $100, but I'm not sure if that is only if you buy the frame/components through the shop.
If you do it yourself, you will need the proper tools. If you don't have them already, it will be comparible in cost for you to do it yourself vs having the shop do it. For example, you will need the following tools:
Bottom bracket tool (of the type to match the bottom bracket currently on the bike & the one you are installing. They may be different). ~$15 ($30 if you need 2 types)
Ratchet or crescent wrench to utilize the BB tool (Assume you have one)
Pedal wrench: ~$10-$15
8mm crank-bolt hex wrench. (you need a longer handle to get the torque right). ~$5
Grease (for the threads of the pedal & BB (depending on the type, you need anti-seize compound for a ti BB). Item on hand or you need to buy a tub. ~$5-$10???
Screwdriver (to set limit screws). Item on hand
5mm hex wrench (to adjust the derailleur cable at the front derailleur) ~$1-$2
Good maintenence manual (Zinn or similar) ~$15
Maybe (probably) a torque wrench: ~$50 ??? Just a guess.
So the decision should not be based on cost, since they will be similar. It should be "do you want to do it yourself to learn more about my bike?" or "do I just want it done and I'll probably never do this again." If the former, by all means do it yourself. If the latter, have the shop do it.
As others have said, you need to know what is included in the $100. The work involved is (assuming you don't change the rear derailleur):
Remove pedals, Remove current cranks, remove bottom bracket, install new bottom bracket, install new cranks, install pedals, adjust derailleur limit screws, adjust derailleur cable tension.
If you are also changing the rear derailleur: Break the chain, remove derailleur, Install new derailleur, thread chain, reconnect the chain, adjust limit screws, adjust tension, adjust B-angle screw. (assuming your derailleur hanger is not damaged)
This should take an experienced wrench about 30 min (45-60 with rear), so a "fair" labor charge is somewhere around $30 - $40 ($60-$80). These may actually be a bit high. A full build at my local LBS only costs $100, but I'm not sure if that is only if you buy the frame/components through the shop.
If you do it yourself, you will need the proper tools. If you don't have them already, it will be comparible in cost for you to do it yourself vs having the shop do it. For example, you will need the following tools:
Bottom bracket tool (of the type to match the bottom bracket currently on the bike & the one you are installing. They may be different). ~$15 ($30 if you need 2 types)
Ratchet or crescent wrench to utilize the BB tool (Assume you have one)
Pedal wrench: ~$10-$15
8mm crank-bolt hex wrench. (you need a longer handle to get the torque right). ~$5
Grease (for the threads of the pedal & BB (depending on the type, you need anti-seize compound for a ti BB). Item on hand or you need to buy a tub. ~$5-$10???
Screwdriver (to set limit screws). Item on hand
5mm hex wrench (to adjust the derailleur cable at the front derailleur) ~$1-$2
Good maintenence manual (Zinn or similar) ~$15
Maybe (probably) a torque wrench: ~$50 ??? Just a guess.
So the decision should not be based on cost, since they will be similar. It should be "do you want to do it yourself to learn more about my bike?" or "do I just want it done and I'll probably never do this again." If the former, by all means do it yourself. If the latter, have the shop do it.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by DogBoy
I disagree with the "if you have to ask" philosophy. If you don't know something you have to ask (or read) about how to do it. You can't know it without asking, so hey, if you want to learn how to wrench your own bike, and can see changing bottom brackets & cranks again in the future then do it yourself. If you prefer to let someone else mess with it, pay the shop.
As others have said, you need to know what is included in the $100. The work involved is (assuming you don't change the rear derailleur):
Remove pedals, Remove current cranks, remove bottom bracket, install new bottom bracket, install new cranks, install pedals, adjust derailleur limit screws, adjust derailleur cable tension.
If you are also changing the rear derailleur: Break the chain, remove derailleur, Install new derailleur, thread chain, reconnect the chain, adjust limit screws, adjust tension, adjust B-angle screw. (assuming your derailleur hanger is not damaged)
This should take an experienced wrench about 30 min (45-60 with rear), so a "fair" labor charge is somewhere around $30 - $40 ($60-$80). These may actually be a bit high. A full build at my local LBS only costs $100, but I'm not sure if that is only if you buy the frame/components through the shop.
If you do it yourself, you will need the proper tools. If you don't have them already, it will be comparible in cost for you to do it yourself vs having the shop do it. For example, you will need the following tools:
Bottom bracket tool (of the type to match the bottom bracket currently on the bike & the one you are installing. They may be different). ~$15 ($30 if you need 2 types)
Ratchet or crescent wrench to utilize the BB tool (Assume you have one)
Pedal wrench: ~$10-$15
8mm crank-bolt hex wrench. (you need a longer handle to get the torque right). ~$5
Grease (for the threads of the pedal & BB (depending on the type, you need anti-seize compound for a ti BB). Item on hand or you need to buy a tub. ~$5-$10???
Screwdriver (to set limit screws). Item on hand
5mm hex wrench (to adjust the derailleur cable at the front derailleur) ~$1-$2
Good maintenence manual (Zinn or similar) ~$15
Maybe (probably) a torque wrench: ~$50 ??? Just a guess.
So the decision should not be based on cost, since they will be similar. It should be "do you want to do it yourself to learn more about my bike?" or "do I just want it done and I'll probably never do this again." If the former, by all means do it yourself. If the latter, have the shop do it.
As others have said, you need to know what is included in the $100. The work involved is (assuming you don't change the rear derailleur):
Remove pedals, Remove current cranks, remove bottom bracket, install new bottom bracket, install new cranks, install pedals, adjust derailleur limit screws, adjust derailleur cable tension.
If you are also changing the rear derailleur: Break the chain, remove derailleur, Install new derailleur, thread chain, reconnect the chain, adjust limit screws, adjust tension, adjust B-angle screw. (assuming your derailleur hanger is not damaged)
This should take an experienced wrench about 30 min (45-60 with rear), so a "fair" labor charge is somewhere around $30 - $40 ($60-$80). These may actually be a bit high. A full build at my local LBS only costs $100, but I'm not sure if that is only if you buy the frame/components through the shop.
If you do it yourself, you will need the proper tools. If you don't have them already, it will be comparible in cost for you to do it yourself vs having the shop do it. For example, you will need the following tools:
Bottom bracket tool (of the type to match the bottom bracket currently on the bike & the one you are installing. They may be different). ~$15 ($30 if you need 2 types)
Ratchet or crescent wrench to utilize the BB tool (Assume you have one)
Pedal wrench: ~$10-$15
8mm crank-bolt hex wrench. (you need a longer handle to get the torque right). ~$5
Grease (for the threads of the pedal & BB (depending on the type, you need anti-seize compound for a ti BB). Item on hand or you need to buy a tub. ~$5-$10???
Screwdriver (to set limit screws). Item on hand
5mm hex wrench (to adjust the derailleur cable at the front derailleur) ~$1-$2
Good maintenence manual (Zinn or similar) ~$15
Maybe (probably) a torque wrench: ~$50 ??? Just a guess.
So the decision should not be based on cost, since they will be similar. It should be "do you want to do it yourself to learn more about my bike?" or "do I just want it done and I'll probably never do this again." If the former, by all means do it yourself. If the latter, have the shop do it.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Happy Valley
Posts: 813
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by capwater
All this discussion for a Bianchi Brava with a 8 speed Sora? If you want a bling factor a double on that bike ain't gonna cut it. It isn't even worth taking off the granny......
Just ride it as is.
Just ride it as is.
It's his bike. He should do whatever the hell he wants to with it! I don't like the immediate assumption you made that he's doing this to impress others.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by juicemouse
As if his bike isn't "worth it" or something? Please...
It's his bike. He should do whatever the hell he wants to with it! I don't like the immediate assumption you made that he's doing this to impress others.
It's his bike. He should do whatever the hell he wants to with it! I don't like the immediate assumption you made that he's doing this to impress others.
He came asking opinions, we have provided them. If he was hellbent on replacing parts, he would have done it already. Still don't think the $100 covers anywhere near everything for the conversion.
Cheers!
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by capwater
If it ain't about bling why not do the cheapest "triple to double" conversion out there .... just don't shift into the granny chainring?
He came asking opinions, we have provided them. If he was hellbent on replacing parts, he would have done it already. Still don't think the $100 covers anywhere near everything for the conversion.
Cheers!
He came asking opinions, we have provided them. If he was hellbent on replacing parts, he would have done it already. Still don't think the $100 covers anywhere near everything for the conversion.
Cheers!