Painting my frame..
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Painting my frame..
So i decided to paint my bike's 33 year-old frame. i have been going at it with sandpaper for the last 2 days and have cleared the majority of the larger tubes, but i just can't get at the corners/lugs well with this method. So i need another way to strip the paint off.
I have heard that paint stripper would work well - is this true? The problem is the headset/fork and bottom bracket are all still on the bike and i would have to be careful not to get the stripper in those parts, yes? I just need some method to remove the paint from all the corners, etc without damaging the frame.
I'm sure i'll have more questions later about the actual painting process..
Thanks
I have heard that paint stripper would work well - is this true? The problem is the headset/fork and bottom bracket are all still on the bike and i would have to be careful not to get the stripper in those parts, yes? I just need some method to remove the paint from all the corners, etc without damaging the frame.
I'm sure i'll have more questions later about the actual painting process..
Thanks
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Originally Posted by mr.goggles
I have heard that paint stripper would work well - is this true? The problem is the headset/fork and bottom bracket are all still on the bike and i would have to be careful not to get the stripper in those parts, yes? I just need some method to remove the paint from all the corners, etc without damaging the frame.
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Originally Posted by sydney
Stripper works super keen. Why not do it right and take out the BB and HS cups?
Remove everything from the frame before you proceed. Paint stripper works fine, I've used that method for years.
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i guess the reason i havn't done the BB/HS is because i've never done that before and am not sure if i have the tools/ability to do so. i've done all the other stripping and regular maintainance work on all my bikes.. is removing bb/hs much more difficult?
#6
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For getting into lugjoints and braze-ons, it is nice to have a brass brisle brush in a Dremel tool. If it is a steel frame, then you can get away with a more effective steel brush. For a lot of steel frames, I go one bigger and use a 4 inch rotary brush in an angle grinder. Average strip time, 30 mins.
I have used a frame size sandblaster before on frames, and for the most part I like the brush better. The thing with a sandblaster is it can very easily cause sand to get inside the tubes where it is a challenge to remove.
Chem stripper is good if you have a particularly stubborn finish or no access to any of the afore mentioned tools. You will still need a small brass brush for working it into said areas. Be totaly certain to neutralize and remove all of your remover before adding primers, as it can cause metal corrosion if left in place for extended periods(the process should only take one session).
I have used a frame size sandblaster before on frames, and for the most part I like the brush better. The thing with a sandblaster is it can very easily cause sand to get inside the tubes where it is a challenge to remove.
Chem stripper is good if you have a particularly stubborn finish or no access to any of the afore mentioned tools. You will still need a small brass brush for working it into said areas. Be totaly certain to neutralize and remove all of your remover before adding primers, as it can cause metal corrosion if left in place for extended periods(the process should only take one session).
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Originally Posted by mr.goggles
i guess the reason i havn't done the BB/HS is because i've never done that before and am not sure if i have the tools/ability to do so. i've done all the other stripping and regular maintainance work on all my bikes.. is removing bb/hs much more difficult?
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I recommend the stripper if you really need to remove all the old paint. But unless your old paint is actually peeling off or bubbling, you don't actually have to remove it! Just sand it to give it some 'bite', and then lay your primer and top coats right on top. If your original paint is actually bubbling up or peeling off, it may be worth removing it all with a chemical stripper (I like BIX Heavy Duty brand, from Home Despot). Physical removal is for people with way to much time on their hands.
peace,
sam
peace,
sam
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I, too, have repainted my road bike (more than once!). I did remove the BB and HS. It made it easier to work with. Everything off.
Also, I agree with phidauex about not removing all paint. The last time I painted my roadie I just "scuffed" it up with some scotchbrite. The old paint was good and not peeling.
Be sure to put something in the threaded holes before you primer. You will have a tough time with the threads if you get paint in them (sorry, this seems like a no brainer but I got excited the first time I painted and had to dig paint out of the threads).
I also used a small file to smooth out some rough spots. It turned out pretty good!
Good luck!
Also, I agree with phidauex about not removing all paint. The last time I painted my roadie I just "scuffed" it up with some scotchbrite. The old paint was good and not peeling.
Be sure to put something in the threaded holes before you primer. You will have a tough time with the threads if you get paint in them (sorry, this seems like a no brainer but I got excited the first time I painted and had to dig paint out of the threads).
I also used a small file to smooth out some rough spots. It turned out pretty good!
Good luck!
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I just finished giving my frame a paint job. You can see it and get some info here: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/121275-check-out-my-davidson.html
I just removed the existing decals carefully with a sharp razor, and then used 400 grit sandpaper to smooth the edges. I also sanded each chip and gouge until smooth, making sure any bare metal was shiny and bright, while lightly sanding the rest of the frame to roughen a little for the primer coat to attach to. This left a majority of the original paint to maximize chip resistance. End result was great.
-Jeff
I just removed the existing decals carefully with a sharp razor, and then used 400 grit sandpaper to smooth the edges. I also sanded each chip and gouge until smooth, making sure any bare metal was shiny and bright, while lightly sanding the rest of the frame to roughen a little for the primer coat to attach to. This left a majority of the original paint to maximize chip resistance. End result was great.
-Jeff