locking my solid axle wheels
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locking my solid axle wheels
So i just bought a new set of wheels on Formula hubs, and apparently they can't be rethreaded with quick-release axles because of their construction... this sucks because i wanted to put my locking skewers on the wheels so i wouldn't have to haul around an extra lock/cable for the front wheel... anyone have any tips/tricks/solutions for how one might secure a bolt-on wheel to a bike to make it unsavory to the thieves that might like to steal my shiny new wheels?
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i've heard of two strategies
1. use two different sized nuts so the potential thief has to
have two wrenches (or one adjustable)
2. use BMX pegs so said thief has to have a deep socket
extension
that's all I've got
1. use two different sized nuts so the potential thief has to
have two wrenches (or one adjustable)
2. use BMX pegs so said thief has to have a deep socket
extension
that's all I've got
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Eh, I wouldn't trust QRs on a fixie. I've heard baaaad things. Just carry around a little cable lock - they're light and reasonably theft proof (just the fact that it's there).
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You could always try to find a fork lock of some sort. (I know they make more modern ones, but that's all I could find.)
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Originally Posted by el twe
Eh, I wouldn't trust QRs on a fixie. I've heard baaaad things.
I have been running QR on my fixie since its inception, and haven't had a single problem.
No slippage. EVER.
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If you were careless and didn't tighten down enough, I could see why a QR in back would be bad, but having a QR up front is more convenient to me. I think I'd feel a little nervous with a QR in back on a track bike, but if you actually make sure it's tightened down well, I guess there's no real reason why it wouldn't be OK.
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Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
If you were careless and didn't tighten down enough, I could see why a QR in back would be bad, but having a QR up front is more convenient to me. I think I'd feel a little nervous with a QR in back on a track bike, but if you actually make sure it's tightened down well, I guess there's no real reason why it wouldn't be OK.
There's no rearon to fear a QR. Adding the word "track" doesn't change anything, either.
Serated Steel QRs, paired with quality steel dropouts, and steel hub locknut faces don't slip. Period. Add aluminum into this equation, all bets are off.
Last edited by BostonFixed; 09-20-05 at 03:50 PM.
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Originally Posted by BostonFixed
Oh yea? What things have you heard about QRs on a fixie? Source?
I have been running QR on my fixie since its inception, and haven't had a single problem.
No slippage. EVER.
I have been running QR on my fixie since its inception, and haven't had a single problem.
No slippage. EVER.
EDIT: Sorry, I thought cusack meant a rear wheel. Front should be no problem. That's what I'll be doing...
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Wow, my question quickly derailed into a debate over skewers v bolts... for the record... my old set-up consisted of a bolt-on rear with a quick-release front hub secured with a locking skewer... a friend of mine rides a singlespeed geared at around 52-16 and used to pull off his rear wheel going up hills... he recently switched to locking skewers and hasn't had the problem... regardless, it looks like i will be resigned to carrying around an extra cable... thanks for the tips! (oh and i am not trying to snark about the change of topic... i realized there probably wasn't a lot of info for what i was asking)
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Originally Posted by BostonFixed
What would happen if you were careless with your bolt on hubs, and didn't tighten them enough?
There's no rearon to fear a QR. Adding the word "track" doesn't change anything, either.
Seratted Steel QRs, paired with quality steel dropouts, and seratted steel hub locknut faces don't slip. Period. Add aluminum into this equation, all bets are off.
There's no rearon to fear a QR. Adding the word "track" doesn't change anything, either.
Seratted Steel QRs, paired with quality steel dropouts, and seratted steel hub locknut faces don't slip. Period. Add aluminum into this equation, all bets are off.
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Originally Posted by el twe
I thought I'd heard some horror stories here, and Sheldon advises against it (under normal circumstances)...
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/qr for the skinny on good vs bad skewers.
Sheldon "Quick Release" Brown
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Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
No I don't! Skewers rule, but only if they're good skewers. There are so many junky exposed-cam skewers out there that they've given them all a bad name, but good skewers properly secured hold well in most cases.
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/qr for the skinny on good vs bad skewers.
Sheldon "Quick Release" Brown
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/qr for the skinny on good vs bad skewers.
Sheldon "Quick Release" Brown
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Originally Posted by cusack
Wow, my question quickly derailed into a debate over skewers v bolts... for the record... my old set-up consisted of a bolt-on rear with a quick-release front hub secured with a locking skewer... a friend of mine rides a singlespeed geared at around 52-16 and used to pull off his rear wheel going up hills... he recently switched to locking skewers and hasn't had the problem... regardless, it looks like i will be resigned to carrying around an extra cable... thanks for the tips! (oh and i am not trying to snark about the change of topic... i realized there probably wasn't a lot of info for what i was asking)
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Originally Posted by honduraz10
just get some phil hex key track nuts and glue some bearings in there. it'll be fairly safe...
Sheldon "Phils Are The Best" Brown
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If you get Phils, you can run the locking skewers with the QR adaptor conversion kit that Phil sells.
Read this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/63312-locking-skewers-track-bike.html
Unaesthetic did this:
Read this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/63312-locking-skewers-track-bike.html
Unaesthetic did this:
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Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Unlike most track hubs, Phils use bolts, not nuts. The Phil bolts don't work with any other hub.
Sheldon "Phils Are The Best" Brown
Sheldon "Phils Are The Best" Brown
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Originally Posted by cusack
So i just bought a new set of wheels on Formula hubs, and apparently they can't be rethreaded with quick-release axles because of their construction...
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that pitlock site is fairly terrible... but i got this far into it...
https://216.239.39.104/translate_c?hl...%26rls%3Den-us
from what i can tell, that would be perfect... (if these Formula hubs have the same size axles as are listed compatible) but of course they don't sell them in the US... i think i will contact them and become the first US distributor... i am gonna make a million dollars! thanks all...
https://216.239.39.104/translate_c?hl...%26rls%3Den-us
from what i can tell, that would be perfect... (if these Formula hubs have the same size axles as are listed compatible) but of course they don't sell them in the US... i think i will contact them and become the first US distributor... i am gonna make a million dollars! thanks all...
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Originally Posted by 0x4C
Anyone know specifically why a quick-release axle can't be used with this hub? Or more generally, is there a rule of thumb that determines QR/bolt-on axle interchangeability?
they are sealed cartridge hubs... i guess if you take them apart, they won't go back together...
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i'm not for using qr on a fix, but if you had chain tugs, then there should be no issue. in fact a chain tug on the drive side should hinder any type of slippage.
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Why not just slightly loosen the front wheel, remove it and lock it up against the rear wheel thru the frame?
Al
Al
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Originally Posted by 0x4C
Anyone know specifically why a quick-release axle can't be used with this hub? Or more generally, is there a rule of thumb that determines QR/bolt-on axle interchangeability?
The axle needs a smooth surface of the correct diameter for the cartridge bearing to sit on. Many also have a step to prevent the bearing from being pushed too far onto the axle.
Since different hubs use different size bearings and position them differently in the hub shell axles are not interchangeable between different hubs.
There is nothing stopping the manufacturer or a third party from producing a qr axle for a particular hub but I expect this doesn't happen because demand for qr fixed hubs is very low. Looks like phil may be the only fixed hubs where this is an option.
Last edited by d_D; 09-21-05 at 12:39 PM.
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Originally Posted by travsi
i'm not for using qr on a fix, but if you had chain tugs, then there should be no issue. in fact a chain tug on the drive side should hinder any type of slippage.
el twe- see what ****ty infomation causes?
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Originally Posted by cusack
they are sealed cartridge hubs... i guess if you take them apart, they won't go back together...