Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Older threaded headset, the quill stem wont pull out?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Older threaded headset, the quill stem wont pull out?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-22-05, 02:22 PM
  #1  
I couldn't car less.
Thread Starter
 
jeff williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397

Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Older threaded headset, the quill stem wont pull out?

? Peugeot PX, the headset is original, only difference I see is that instead of a hex bolt to run into the steerer\wedge it has a bolt with a nut on top instead of hex.

Well the bolts out, the stem turns in the headset but will not pull up and out.
Have I missed something? The hex bolt quill stems came out -is this possibly different.

It's soaking in wd-40, 2 guys pulling at it, I'm not so into the hammer method unless last resort.
Headset is original Peugeot stuff, not corroded.
Are there diff 'versions' of quill stem\headsets from France?

Thanks, my buddies bike so I'm less into the 'tough love' I'd do if he wasn't looking.
jeff williams is offline  
Old 10-22-05, 02:37 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Old Hammer Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,082

Bikes: Trek, Cannondale Tandem, Surly LHT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It could be wedged or corroded to such a degree that you'll have to put in a bolt, replacing the origional one, pound it down to loosen the assembly. Perhaps after the WD soaks in, you may be able to fish it out, but I bet it's the wedge binding the thing up. OHB
Old Hammer Boy is offline  
Old 10-22-05, 03:08 PM
  #3  
I couldn't car less.
Thread Starter
 
jeff williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397

Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Old Hammer Boy
It could be wedged or corroded to such a degree that you'll have to put in a bolt, replacing the origional one, pound it down to loosen the assembly. Perhaps after the WD soaks in, you may be able to fish it out, but I bet it's the wedge binding the thing up. OHB
Yes exactly, we threaded the bolt back in leaving say 2 cm exposed and smacked the wedge off inside the end of the quill.

Not a wedge, flat round bolt, the old stem bottom end flat as well.
The bottom of the quill cylinder was cut 8 slots vertical 2 inches, the nut\wedge goes inside then flanges by forcing the tube slats outward.

Different fer sure, not seen by me before.
We're good to go, thanks.
jeff williams is offline  
Old 10-22-05, 03:11 PM
  #4  
Curmudgeon
 
Wil Davis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nausea, New Hamster
Posts: 1,572

Bikes: (see https://wildavis.smugmug.com/Bikes) Bianchi Veloce (2005), Nishiki Cascade (1992), Schwinn Super Sport (1983)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I'm not sure of your location, but when I lived in the UK, I used "Plus Gas" releasing agent to help disassemble corroded exhaust systems. I used it recently to free a seized pedal (it had been assembled without grease, and the steel axle had seized to the aluminium crank arm). "Plus-Gas" dripped onto the thread and left for an hour or so worked wonderfully! Look around for an equivalent - good luck!

- Wil
Wil Davis is offline  
Old 10-22-05, 05:27 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by jeff williams
Yes exactly, we threaded the bolt back in leaving say 2 cm exposed and smacked the wedge off inside the end of the quill.

Not a wedge, flat round bolt, the old stem bottom end flat as well.
The bottom of the quill cylinder was cut 8 slots vertical 2 inches, the nut\wedge goes inside then flanges by forcing the tube slats outward.


Different fer sure, not seen by me before.
We're good to go, thanks.
That's a nasty beastie. The base of the quill takes a permanent set wedged against the inside of the steerer.Something to try is tro go in from the bottom with something that would woerk similar to a Park HS cup removal tool and try tapping or pounding from ethe bottom.
sydney is offline  
Old 10-22-05, 05:47 PM
  #6  
I couldn't car less.
Thread Starter
 
jeff williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397

Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I can see why the industry went to the angled offset wedge.
No corrosion on the stem or inside tube. Bikes nice for 70's.
jeff williams is offline  
Old 10-22-05, 07:16 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The plug type expander was still being used in 2002.
sydney is offline  
Old 10-22-05, 08:04 PM
  #8  
I couldn't car less.
Thread Starter
 
jeff williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397

Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sydney
The plug type expander was still being used in 2002.
Really, I seldom work on road bikes, old mtb's with quills yes -not seen one like that.
Is there a reason for this system? I guess it is a good strong mating.

Plug type expander eh...everyday a new bit o' knowledge.
jeff williams is offline  
Old 10-25-05, 08:29 AM
  #9  
Full Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Malden, MA.
Posts: 403

Bikes: 2009 Masi, 2014 Specialized Crossroads 1975 Schwinn Unicycle

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Try this. Remove front wheel. Flip bike over. You should be able to use a long blade screwdriver and give it a moderate wack.The wedge looks like an exploded cork? I'd soak it with WD-40, and or Liquid Wrench.
TireLever-07 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.