Repair Stand Carbon Frame
12-26-05, 10:35 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Repair Stand Carbon Frame
I have a Giant OCR Comp 3. I am looking for a repair stand. I don't want to have to remove my carbon seatpost and replace it with a metal one in order to use a clamp style repair stand.
I am considering the Part PRS-20--no clamping is necessary.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I am considering the Part PRS-20--no clamping is necessary.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
12-26-05, 11:40 AM
#2
My bike's better than me!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 2,041
Bikes: (2) Moots Vamoots, (1) Cannondale T2000 tourer, (1) Diamondback Response Comp mtb
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
I don't have any personal experience with the PRS-20, but would ask you this: what's the concern about the seatpost swap? I do it all the time.
12-26-05, 12:09 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portugal-Israel
Posts: 863
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Don't you have to remore the front wheel of the bicycle to use the stand you want? So what is better replace seat post or remove the front wheel and use a strap to sabilize the bicycle?
12-26-05, 12:17 PM
#4
Double Naught Spy
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,722
Bikes: 2010 Scott CR1 Comp, 2013 Scott Scale 960 MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Seatpost swap is probably the best way to go. If your worried about repositioning the seatpost, either measure, or mark it. I use painters masking tape which is very light on glue 3/4's around the post to mark it. Just simply pull it back off when post is replaced. I don't know what's cheaper, a generic metal seatpost, or the PRS 20 stand?
12-26-05, 12:20 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 165
Bikes: late 80s Paramount MTB with Xtracycle, late 80s Paramount MTB converted to single speed, Bianchi Nuovo Record converted to fixie, custom Tom Board lugged steel racer, 1950s Claude Butler, 1950s Dawes, custom chopper built on 50s cruiser by me
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have a stand that I have to remove the front wheel to use. Guess what? I _never_ use it. I always go back to my Park, and change the seatpost if I have to. Once you have to do some work on the bike that requires that the front wheel be installed to do it, you will find much frustration. At least I sure did.
12-26-05, 04:51 PM
#6
34x25 FTW!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 6,013
Bikes: Kona Jake, Scott CR1, Dahon SpeedPro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Don't have a carbon frame or seatpost, but if I did... I'd keep an old Al seatpost for putting on the work stand. It's not that big of deal, I would think (position is so easily marked as mentioned above).
12-26-05, 05:17 PM
#7
The Red Lantern
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 5,965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I clamp carbon seat posts all the time. I use the adjustable Park clamp and I put a clean "blue towel) in the clamp to keep from scuffing the finish.
The Park spring clamp does not clamp so tight I would worry about a carbon post either.
The Park spring clamp does not clamp so tight I would worry about a carbon post either.
__________________
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. Its free, and only takes 27 seconds!
Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
I am in the woods and I have gone crazy.
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. Its free, and only takes 27 seconds!
Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
I am in the woods and I have gone crazy.
12-26-05, 05:37 PM
#8
DEADBEEF
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Catching his breath alongside a road near Seattle, WA USA
Posts: 12,234
Bikes: 1999 K2 OzM, 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
4 Posts
On my homemade repair stand, I just wrap a towel around the post and don't torque the clamp very much. I also have an old innertube lining the inside of the clamp blocks.
If I don't really need to hold the bike that firmly, I'll just hang it by the saddle.
If I don't really need to hold the bike that firmly, I'll just hang it by the saddle.
__________________
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
12-26-05, 10:37 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 72
Bikes: Motobecane Le Champion Team, Trek 6700 Custom
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
I clamp carbon seat posts all the time. I use the adjustable Park clamp and I put a clean "blue towel) in the clamp to keep from scuffing the finish.
The Park spring clamp does not clamp so tight I would worry about a carbon post either.
The Park spring clamp does not clamp so tight I would worry about a carbon post either.
