Headset Question
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Headset Question
I am rebuilding my Trek 7500 frame with mostly road components. It now has flat bars, a quill stem, and aluminum fork. I want to replace these with a carbon fork, road bars, and some kind of stem/headset combo. What are my options for headsets and stems if I no longer want to use a quill stem? Thanks for any advice.
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pretty much infinite as long as it's the same size steerer. Even more if you want to use adapeters.
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Well, there's the quill-type and the threadless-type, so you'll need a threadless headset and a threadless stem. There are tons of them out there, so you have plenty to choose from. They come in either 1" or 1 1/8" sizes, so be sure you get the right one.
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Thanks for the responses. I have never disassembled this bike's headset so I wasn't sure if I was stuck with the quill stem. Guess I just need to tear it apart and go for it.
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Im curious as to what other components yer gonna switch out. If you want to keep the v-brake up front you need a fork with canti bosses. Don't believe that frame will accept a road brake in back. You'll need a Travel Agent in place of the regular noodle to use road brake levers with v-brakes.
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Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
Thanks for the responses. I have never disassembled this bike's headset so I wasn't sure if I was stuck with the quill stem. Guess I just need to tear it apart and go for it.
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Originally Posted by mactheknife68
Im curious as to what other components yer gonna switch out. If you want to keep the v-brake up front you need a fork with canti bosses. Don't believe that frame will accept a road brake in back. You'll need a Travel Agent in place of the regular noodle to use road brake levers with v-brakes.
Another issue might be the front derailleur's incompatibility with Shimano STI road levers.
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#8
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Carbon forks are vaguely lighter than aluminum, but both are lots of fun, because of CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. Yippee! And when you pluck it, it goes "clunk" instead of "pink." But I suppose that this makes sense, given that you'll be surely racing criteriums on this bike.
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Originally Posted by genericbikedude
Carbon forks are vaguely lighter than aluminum, but both are lots of fun, because of CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. Yippee! And when you pluck it, it goes "clunk" instead of "pink." But I suppose that this makes sense, given that you'll be surely racing criteriums on this bike.
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#10
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Jeez,
Noodles, Cantis, Travel Agents, Crown Race, Pink and Clunk. Now I am confused.
For more background:
The crank on this bike is trashed and is the wrong length for me. The cables, shifters, brake levers, bottom bracket, and rear hub have also seen better days. I appreciate the thoughts on the brakes, I am fine with the existing brakes but want to install STI. As near as I can figure, I am going to have to use an MTB crank and bottom bracket to fit this frame. I want to get rid of the adjustable quill stem and flat bars. The existing derailers are okay but I plan on using a road cassette. I already have a new Mavic wheelset with 105 hubs.
I happen to like the feel of the carbon fork on my Lemond so will install one on this bike as well.
Thanks again for your thoughts.
Noodles, Cantis, Travel Agents, Crown Race, Pink and Clunk. Now I am confused.
For more background:
The crank on this bike is trashed and is the wrong length for me. The cables, shifters, brake levers, bottom bracket, and rear hub have also seen better days. I appreciate the thoughts on the brakes, I am fine with the existing brakes but want to install STI. As near as I can figure, I am going to have to use an MTB crank and bottom bracket to fit this frame. I want to get rid of the adjustable quill stem and flat bars. The existing derailers are okay but I plan on using a road cassette. I already have a new Mavic wheelset with 105 hubs.
I happen to like the feel of the carbon fork on my Lemond so will install one on this bike as well.
Thanks again for your thoughts.
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Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
Jeez,
Noodles, Cantis, Travel Agents, Crown Race, Pink and Clunk. Now I am confused.
Noodles, Cantis, Travel Agents, Crown Race, Pink and Clunk. Now I am confused.
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
For more background:
The crank on this bike is trashed and is the wrong length for me. The cables, shifters, brake levers, bottom bracket, and rear hub have also seen better days.
The crank on this bike is trashed and is the wrong length for me. The cables, shifters, brake levers, bottom bracket, and rear hub have also seen better days.
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
I appreciate the thoughts on the brakes, I am fine with the existing brakes but want to install STI.
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
As near as I can figure, I am going to have to use an MTB crank and bottom bracket to fit this frame.
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
I want to get rid of the adjustable quill stem and flat bars.
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
The existing derailers are okay but I plan on using a road cassette.
and here: https://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
I already have a new Mavic wheelset with 105 hubs.
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
I happen to like the feel of the carbon fork on my Lemond so will install one on this bike as well.
Originally Posted by lighthorse@eart
Thanks again for your thoughts.
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#12
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Juicemouse,
I am on the receive mode now and will try to follow through on your suggestions. I did check out the spacing on the frame before I bought the wheels and they work fine (they have about 1000 miles on them).
Your first comment is appropriate. I also keep looking at new bikes rather than buying all of the stuff for this one.
I am sure that I will have a lot more questions as this progresses.
I am on the receive mode now and will try to follow through on your suggestions. I did check out the spacing on the frame before I bought the wheels and they work fine (they have about 1000 miles on them).
Your first comment is appropriate. I also keep looking at new bikes rather than buying all of the stuff for this one.
I am sure that I will have a lot more questions as this progresses.
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I did part of the conversion you describe on an Al frame rigid early '90s Trek MTB.
I kept the stock threaded fork and headset and fitted drop bars, a new quill stem and an 8-speed STI rear shifter. I had to use a barcon for the front shifting to allow for the MTB derailleur /Road shifter incompatibility noted above.
I also converted the stock rear hub from 7-speed to 8-speed and respaced the wheel to compensate for the wider freehub body. I kept the original 26" wheels.
What made this practical was that I had a parts box full of unused items so the only purchases I had to make were a set of low cost 25.4 mm drop bars, a cheap 1-1/8" quill stem and 1.25" slick tires.
If I had to buy all of the replacement parts, I never would have considered the project.
I kept the stock threaded fork and headset and fitted drop bars, a new quill stem and an 8-speed STI rear shifter. I had to use a barcon for the front shifting to allow for the MTB derailleur /Road shifter incompatibility noted above.
I also converted the stock rear hub from 7-speed to 8-speed and respaced the wheel to compensate for the wider freehub body. I kept the original 26" wheels.
What made this practical was that I had a parts box full of unused items so the only purchases I had to make were a set of low cost 25.4 mm drop bars, a cheap 1-1/8" quill stem and 1.25" slick tires.
If I had to buy all of the replacement parts, I never would have considered the project.
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Originally Posted by HillRider
I did part of the conversion you describe on an Al frame rigid early '90s Trek MTB.
I kept the stock threaded fork and headset and fitted drop bars, a new quill stem and an 8-speed STI rear shifter. I had to use a barcon for the front shifting to allow for the MTB derailleur /Road shifter incompatibility noted above.
I also converted the stock rear hub from 7-speed to 8-speed and respaced the wheel to compensate for the wider freehub body. I kept the original 26" wheels.
What made this practical was that I had a parts box full of unused items so the only purchases I had to make were a set of low cost 25.4 mm drop bars, a cheap 1-1/8" quill stem and 1.25" slick tires.
If I had to buy all of the replacement parts, I never would have considered the project.
I kept the stock threaded fork and headset and fitted drop bars, a new quill stem and an 8-speed STI rear shifter. I had to use a barcon for the front shifting to allow for the MTB derailleur /Road shifter incompatibility noted above.
I also converted the stock rear hub from 7-speed to 8-speed and respaced the wheel to compensate for the wider freehub body. I kept the original 26" wheels.
What made this practical was that I had a parts box full of unused items so the only purchases I had to make were a set of low cost 25.4 mm drop bars, a cheap 1-1/8" quill stem and 1.25" slick tires.
If I had to buy all of the replacement parts, I never would have considered the project.
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Originally Posted by juicemouse
Same here. These types of projects are probably not the most sensible way to get a set of wheels under your butt. I do stuff like this because I like building up something from scratch, something that is perfectly tailored to the way I use it, something like no one else's bike. I enjoy the process almost as much as I like riding it.
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Originally Posted by HillRider
I did it for two reasons. First I enjoy the process too and it was fun doing the conversion. Second, I never rode the bike in real off-road conditions and don't like flat bars for road riding so this was a way to convert it to something useful. I also fitted the bike with fenders and a rack and it became a rain/beater/errand bike so it gets some use.
Great way to learn about bikes, too.
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In memory of Jim Price (aka. sydney) ...
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