New LHT Frame Rustproofing
#1
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New LHT Frame Rustproofing
I'm looking for a product and a technique for rustproofing the inside of my new LHT frame (if it ever comes in!) before I begin mounting my components. Hopefully if I do this right, this might be the last bike I'll own!
#3
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I'm using Boeshield T-9 , that is I'm spraying it into every spot I can get it into on my new steel Lemond frame. Hard to say if there is any difference between any of the products available as an anti-corrosion product, I've never seen any reviews. Ask me in 20 years if it worked.
I have noticed that you have to give this stuff some room to dry. I sprayed some into the seat tube a month ago and last week when I removed the seat post I noticed the spray was still wet, but it did dry after a night with the post off.
I'm very interested to hear from anyone who has been using an anti-corrosive product for any length of time.
I have noticed that you have to give this stuff some room to dry. I sprayed some into the seat tube a month ago and last week when I removed the seat post I noticed the spray was still wet, but it did dry after a night with the post off.
I'm very interested to hear from anyone who has been using an anti-corrosive product for any length of time.
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Originally Posted by bccycleguy
I'm using Boeshield T-9 , that is I'm spraying it into every spot I can get it into on my new steel Lemond frame. Hard to say if there is any difference between any of the products available as an anti-corrosion product, I've never seen any reviews. Ask me in 20 years if it worked.
I have noticed that you have to give this stuff some room to dry. I sprayed some into the seat tube a month ago and last week when I removed the seat post I noticed the spray was still wet, but it did dry after a night with the post off.
I'm very interested to hear from anyone who has been using an anti-corrosive product for any length of time.
I have noticed that you have to give this stuff some room to dry. I sprayed some into the seat tube a month ago and last week when I removed the seat post I noticed the spray was still wet, but it did dry after a night with the post off.
I'm very interested to hear from anyone who has been using an anti-corrosive product for any length of time.
https://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Extras/product_20894.shtml
#5
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https://www.surlybikes.com/spew9.html
I am going to buy a LHT frame as soon as the 62cm are in stock. Right now, I am planning to rustproof the inside of the frame with Boeshield. If I have any trouble finding that, I will probably use Amsoil HDMP. Boeshield, Amsoil, or Framesaver should all be more than good enough for your needs. Be sure to use it in a well venitlated area and give it time to "dry" before you start installing the components.
I am going to buy a LHT frame as soon as the 62cm are in stock. Right now, I am planning to rustproof the inside of the frame with Boeshield. If I have any trouble finding that, I will probably use Amsoil HDMP. Boeshield, Amsoil, or Framesaver should all be more than good enough for your needs. Be sure to use it in a well venitlated area and give it time to "dry" before you start installing the components.
#6
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boiled linseed oil is an inexpensive, effective bicycle frame rustproofing alternative to the products previously posted. its available in the paint section of almost any hardware/walmart. a quart costs ~4 bucks and will do many bike frames.
linseed oil stinks until it drys, and it takes several days for it to dry, so you need a garage or secure outdoors area for your frame to hang for a few days. so don't plan on doing anything with it for 3-4 days.
when rustproofing, use newspaper to plug the holes. then add lots of treatment. slosh it around everywhere to completely coat the inside of the tube. remove plugs, drain tubes. do one tube at a time, less likely to miss a tube and control the mess a little better. also have lots of newspaper on the floor, or better yet do it in the backyard.
linseed oil won't hurt your paint or powder coating. but wipe off the excess when its still liquid, because its very difficult to remove once dry.
linseed oil is also useful as a spoke lube / nipple immobilizer when building wheels. a little messy, but so is loctite / expensive dt goo / anything besides plain ole spokes and nipples, which work pretty good if you get the tension up.
leftover linseed can be used for painting...
linseed oil stinks until it drys, and it takes several days for it to dry, so you need a garage or secure outdoors area for your frame to hang for a few days. so don't plan on doing anything with it for 3-4 days.
when rustproofing, use newspaper to plug the holes. then add lots of treatment. slosh it around everywhere to completely coat the inside of the tube. remove plugs, drain tubes. do one tube at a time, less likely to miss a tube and control the mess a little better. also have lots of newspaper on the floor, or better yet do it in the backyard.
linseed oil won't hurt your paint or powder coating. but wipe off the excess when its still liquid, because its very difficult to remove once dry.
linseed oil is also useful as a spoke lube / nipple immobilizer when building wheels. a little messy, but so is loctite / expensive dt goo / anything besides plain ole spokes and nipples, which work pretty good if you get the tension up.
leftover linseed can be used for painting...