How many links to remove
04-17-06, 07:53 PM
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How many links to remove
I am replacing the chain and cassette on my bike. The cassette is 11-28 and I'm using a 26/36/46 triple crankset. The replacment chain is a SRAM PC-58 with 114 links. Any of the more experenced wrenches have a good, educated guess to how many links to remove? I am running a long cage 105 rear derailluier.
04-17-06, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselDan
Any of the more experenced wrenches have a good, educated guess to how many links to remove?
04-17-06, 08:56 PM
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Make the new chain the same number of links on the old chain. I ususally just take the old one off and lay it out along side the new one and you can figure out the rest.
04-17-06, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MrCjolsen
Make the new chain the same number of links on the old chain. I ususally just take the old one off and lay it out along side the new one and you can figure out the rest.
04-18-06, 04:55 AM
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From Sheldon's Web-site:
Chain Length
If you replace your chain or sprockets, you should check your chain length. New chains come longer than they need to be for the vast majority of bicycles. You will almost certainly need to shorten a new chain before installing it on your bicycle. If your large sprocket sizes are anywhere near the maximum your rear derailer can handle, the chain length can be quite critical.
If the chain is too short, it will be at risk for jamming and possibly ruining the rear derailer if you accidentally shift into the large-large combination. Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.
If the chain is too long, it will hang slack in the small-small combinations. You should never use those combinations anyway, so this is not a serious problem. If you exceed the recommended gear range for a particular rear derailer, you may have to accept droop in these gears.
The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that they could be connected (outer link meets inner link), then make the chain one complete link (one inch) longer than that. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.
Start with the shortest chain that would permit connection as in the middle position, while on the large/large gear. Then add one complete link.
For a photographic illustration: https://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
Bob
Chain Length
If you replace your chain or sprockets, you should check your chain length. New chains come longer than they need to be for the vast majority of bicycles. You will almost certainly need to shorten a new chain before installing it on your bicycle. If your large sprocket sizes are anywhere near the maximum your rear derailer can handle, the chain length can be quite critical.
If the chain is too short, it will be at risk for jamming and possibly ruining the rear derailer if you accidentally shift into the large-large combination. Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.
If the chain is too long, it will hang slack in the small-small combinations. You should never use those combinations anyway, so this is not a serious problem. If you exceed the recommended gear range for a particular rear derailer, you may have to accept droop in these gears.
The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that they could be connected (outer link meets inner link), then make the chain one complete link (one inch) longer than that. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.
Start with the shortest chain that would permit connection as in the middle position, while on the large/large gear. Then add one complete link.
For a photographic illustration: https://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
Bob
04-18-06, 05:25 AM
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Big/Big plus 2 links usually works, but if you have an existing chain matching it up is a no brainer. Remember; measure twice, cut once.
04-18-06, 05:35 AM
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Using the existing chain to measure is not really that helpful if the chain isn't currently pefectly sized.
Size the new chain correctly when you install it, and have no worries.
But, i'm sure all of this isn't of any consequence to dan, as he is a bike mechanic.
Size the new chain correctly when you install it, and have no worries.
But, i'm sure all of this isn't of any consequence to dan, as he is a bike mechanic.
04-18-06, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that they could be connected (outer link meets inner link), then make the chain one complete link (one inch) longer than that. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.
The derailluer cage length has nothing to do with it. The large / large combo determines the length. The difference between large/large and small/small determines what length cage you need.
04-18-06, 10:09 AM
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OP said he's changing the cassette, but didn't say what the old one was. Let us know what the old setup was and we can give you a good starting place for how many links up or down to go.
04-18-06, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Landgolier
OP said he's changing the cassette, but didn't say what the old one was. Let us know what the old setup was and we can give you a good starting place for how many links up or down to go.
