SQUEAKING BRAKES! How can I make the noise stop?
#1
Thread Starter
your god hates me



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,917
Likes: 3,768
Bikes: 2026 Crumpton T5, 2016 Richard Sachs, 2010 Carl Strong, 2006 Cannondale Synapse
SQUEAKING BRAKES! How can I make the noise stop?
So I just replaced all four pads on my Trek hybrid's cantilever brakes (...for the first time in eleven years, he admits sheepishly).
Recognizing the potential for my own mechanical ineptitude, I then brought the bike into the LBS to have them adjust the brakes: center them, set the spacing, tweak the cable tension, whatever the heck professional wrenches do when an idiot like me brings a bike in and says "Brakes Need Adjusting."
And they did a fine job, inasmuch as the bike stops firmly, assuredly, and decisively. Except the front brake also makes A GODAWFUL CATERWAULING SQUEAL when I use it. I'm talking serious diesel bus/garbage truck kind of brake squealing, a louder, more horrific shreiking than even war-mongering banshees would emit. It's deafening, it's embarassing, and it's relentless. Mostly happens when I'm going down hill and/or coming to a quick stop. Once it starts, no matter how gently I try modulating the brakes, it just keeps going, like a siren. People four blocks away are ducking & covering.
And the back brakes, which are the exact same pad, are perfectly silent.
Any ideas? I beg of you...my ride partners beseech you...my neighbors implore you.
Thanks.
Recognizing the potential for my own mechanical ineptitude, I then brought the bike into the LBS to have them adjust the brakes: center them, set the spacing, tweak the cable tension, whatever the heck professional wrenches do when an idiot like me brings a bike in and says "Brakes Need Adjusting."
And they did a fine job, inasmuch as the bike stops firmly, assuredly, and decisively. Except the front brake also makes A GODAWFUL CATERWAULING SQUEAL when I use it. I'm talking serious diesel bus/garbage truck kind of brake squealing, a louder, more horrific shreiking than even war-mongering banshees would emit. It's deafening, it's embarassing, and it's relentless. Mostly happens when I'm going down hill and/or coming to a quick stop. Once it starts, no matter how gently I try modulating the brakes, it just keeps going, like a siren. People four blocks away are ducking & covering.
And the back brakes, which are the exact same pad, are perfectly silent.
Any ideas? I beg of you...my ride partners beseech you...my neighbors implore you.
Thanks.
#2
Bike Junkie
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 9,625
Likes: 40
From: South of Raleigh, North of New Hill, East of Harris Lake, NC
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Specialized Roubaix, Giant OCR-C, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, Stumpjumper Comp, 88 & 92Nishiki Ariel, 87 Centurion Ironman, 92 Paramount, 84 Nishiki Medalist
Well, I'm not a mechanic, but I have run into the same problem. I've had some success with 2 different approaches. The first you've already done, replace the pads. The second is to take rubbing alcohol and wipe the edge of the rim to remove any oil or rubber build-up on the rim. Be careful, it's not a good idea to let the alcohol go directly on to the pads. This process worked very well for me on my son's old Schwinn roadie. It has the side benefit of improving your stopping power slightly.
Have you checked with Sheldon Brown's website?
Have you checked with Sheldon Brown's website?
__________________
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
#3
Numbnuts
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Bozeman, MT
Bikes: KHS 555, Trek 820 converted to cruiser/winter bike, Trek 520 singlespeed conversion.
In my experience this is caused by oil on the rims.
To get rid of it, I clean the rims thoroughly with alcohol (I've had the best success with denatured, but rubbing works OK) and then lightly clean/ resurface the pads with a file or sandpaper.
To get rid of it, I clean the rims thoroughly with alcohol (I've had the best success with denatured, but rubbing works OK) and then lightly clean/ resurface the pads with a file or sandpaper.
#4
I could be wrong but it sounds like the pads might need to be toed. The front part of the pad needs to touch the rim before the rear part of the pad. Loosen the pad a little and put a something thin like a credit card between the rear part of the pad and the rim. Center the pads and have someone apply the brakes. Tighten the pad. That's what I did to get rid of squeak and vibration.
#5
Bob Rae for PM!

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Bikes: Cannondale T700, Trek 620 ('84)
Take the bike back to whoever installed the new brakes. I agree with SBW - it is likely that your pads need to be toed. It is easy to do if you have a 10mm wrench and a 5mm allen key, but they should take care of it for you. Squeaky breaks can often lead to bigger problems.
#6
kipuka explorer

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,297
Likes: 2
From: Hilo Town, East Hawai'i
Bikes: 1994 Trek 820, 2004 Fuji Absolute, 2005 Jamis Nova, 1977 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36
Originally Posted by Bob Ross
And they did a fine job, inasmuch as the bike stops firmly, assuredly, and decisively. Except the front brake also makes A GODAWFUL CATERWAULING SQUEAL when I use it. I'm talking serious diesel bus/garbage truck kind of brake squealing, a louder, more horrific shreiking than even war-mongering banshees would emit. It's deafening, it's embarassing, and it's relentless. Mostly happens when I'm going down hill and/or coming to a quick stop. Once it starts, no matter how gently I try modulating the brakes, it just keeps going, like a siren. People four blocks away are ducking & covering.
__________________
--
-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
Friends don't let friends use brifters.
--
-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
Friends don't let friends use brifters.
#7
I'm made of earth!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 0
From: Frankfurt, Germany
Bikes: KTM Macina 5 e-bike, Babboe Curve-E cargobike, Raleigh Aspen touring/off-road hybrid.
Originally Posted by bkrownd
This problem has plagued mankind for millenia. Finding the right answer is like a long spiritual journey (through hell), exploring all the possibilities of pad angles, rim surfacing, brake boosters, and different pad compounds. The answer will be different for every bike.
)
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,820
Likes: 133
In addition to taking it back to whoever you paid to do the job right, and checking the toe, take the tire off the wheel, aggressively sand the section of the rim that the brake shoes contact with 320 grit, clean with brakecleaner. Then sand the pads with 60 grit or a file.
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#9
Dances With Cars
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,527
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada
Bikes: TBL Onyx Pro(ss converted), Pake SS (starting to look kinda pimped)
Toeing it sounds like to me. Allen key and it can be adjusted by hand lickity split when you're riding so you KNOW it's gone. Had the same thing happen when I changed pads out recently.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 0
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Bianchi San Remo - set up as a utility bike, Peter Mooney Road bike, Peter Mooney commute bike,Dahon Folder,Schwinn Paramount Tandem
My commuter bike has cantis (Avid 6s), and like yours, the fronts squeal loudly. I have adjusted every which way - toeing, moving up/down etc. Sometimes the squeal will stop for a few miles, then it comes back.
I have learned to consider this a feature - when approaching a runner or another cyclist who I am passing, rather than calling out 'on your left' or some such thing, I just apply front brake gently, and they get out of my way. My wife knows when I am coming home since she hears me from a block away. If they ever do stop squealing I will have to learn to adapt.
I have learned to consider this a feature - when approaching a runner or another cyclist who I am passing, rather than calling out 'on your left' or some such thing, I just apply front brake gently, and they get out of my way. My wife knows when I am coming home since she hears me from a block away. If they ever do stop squealing I will have to learn to adapt.
#11
The stock pads on my hybrid ended up very loud after a while. I'm talking bugle blast loud. People literally trying to jump out of their skin if I braked near them. Put on some new pads, problem solved to this day.
#13
Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind
I could be wrong but it sounds like the pads might need to be toed. The front part of the pad needs to touch the rim before the rear part of the pad. Loosen the pad a little and put a something thin like a credit card between the rear part of the pad and the rim. Center the pads and have someone apply the brakes. Tighten the pad. That's what I did to get rid of squeak and vibration.
__________________
#14
Sturmey Archer Hub


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,687
Likes: 2,015
From: New England
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Originally Posted by Bikes-N-Drums
The stock pads on my hybrid ended up very loud after a while. I'm talking bugle blast loud. People literally trying to jump out of their skin if I braked near them. Put on some new pads, problem solved to this day.
Two of my old Raleighs were the same way. New pads solved both. They were calipers though.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979): HERE
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979): HERE
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
I had the same problem on my new Cross Check. The front (never the back) Shimano BR-R550 cantilever brakes squealed dreadfully on any firm stop, wet or dry. I cleaned the rims to surgical specifications, cleaned and sanded the pads, changed to Kool Stop Salmon pads, toed them in, toed them out, set them flat, tried different wheels, nothing worked. In despiration I even exchanged the cantilevers brakes for Avid SD7s and matching V-brake levers and had exactly the same problems.
What FINALLY cured the problem was to change the MTB-style front brake pads and holders for road bike equavalents. I installed Kool Stop Dura-type pad holders and Salmon pads and the squeal is finally gone. All I can figure is that the shorter holders and pads are more rigid and, thefore more vibration resistant. Braking did not suffer one bit from this change.
What FINALLY cured the problem was to change the MTB-style front brake pads and holders for road bike equavalents. I installed Kool Stop Dura-type pad holders and Salmon pads and the squeal is finally gone. All I can figure is that the shorter holders and pads are more rigid and, thefore more vibration resistant. Braking did not suffer one bit from this change.
#17
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I was dealing with this issue last week after installing a new pair of brakes and pads, turns out the factory pads that came with my Avid Shorty 4's are crap. I'm including pictures so you can compare, as you can see the first picture (the factory for the 4's) have 3 sections, the middle being quite long and which I believe was causing the issues by not providing enough flex, and trust me, I did everything humanly possible before switching them out. The second picture is of the Avid ultimate pads which have 4 sections providing I believe more flexibility which I believe is what fixed this issue because once I installed the new pads replacing the factory pads I was good to go. Not sure if this is your issue but worth considering.

#18
In addition to taking it back to whoever you paid to do the job right, and checking the toe, take the tire off the wheel, aggressively sand the section of the rim that the brake shoes contact with 320 grit, clean with brakecleaner. Then sand the pads with 60 grit or a file.
It does however beg the question, is making sure the brakes don't squeal part of a brake job? Supposing the LBS did everything right, are they still to be blamed because the brakes squeal? Anyway, assuming the OP would rather try and fix the problem himself, I first say check for toe in. If that looks right, I just today had to deal with brake squeal from some V Brakes; suddenly started about 100mi on some new Kool Stop pads. Cleaning the rim brake surface didn't work, but the it did look uneven and glazed. Took some 220 grit sandpaper to it (sorry no 320, but it seems it got the job done in 1/3 less time) until the surface looked clean and even. I did a test ride and the squealing is gone. BTW, I have numerous bikes with cantilevers, V brakes, calipers (single and double pivot) and disc brakes (hydro and mechanical). Occasionally one will start to squeal for one reason or another. If I ever had a bike where I couldn't quiet the squeal, I would get rid of it and that is something I rarely ever do..
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,741
Likes: 17
From: Gaseous Cloud around Uranus
The pads are too hard.....or the pivot is worn/loose...or both.
If the pads don't breakdown while braking it will glaze the rim and pad,causing chatter.
If the pivot is worn/loose,no amount of breakdown will silence them because the arm can't control the toe-in while braking,causing the lead-in edge of the pad to dig into the rim,making it chatter. You can try giving it more toe-in than normal,than when the pad seats fully,it will preload the arm more when braking.
The front makes noise,the rear doesn't......which one do you normally use most...the front.I'm guessing the pivot is worn.
If the pads don't breakdown while braking it will glaze the rim and pad,causing chatter.
If the pivot is worn/loose,no amount of breakdown will silence them because the arm can't control the toe-in while braking,causing the lead-in edge of the pad to dig into the rim,making it chatter. You can try giving it more toe-in than normal,than when the pad seats fully,it will preload the arm more when braking.
The front makes noise,the rear doesn't......which one do you normally use most...the front.I'm guessing the pivot is worn.
Last edited by Booger1; 12-11-12 at 02:06 PM.







