imfastareyou

so I've searched around a bit here but can't really figure this one out.

I've got an old racing frame that is spaced 110mm in the rear. cool lugged frame with a little hanger for the racing # on the top tube. found it in a trash pile. so I'm going to make it into a fixie and put my cross check back together for some cross this season.

I need a rear wheel, are phils the only option for a 110mm rear hub? they're nice but $165 for a low flange rear is just too much $ for this bike. Is there a readily available, cheaper alternative?

Or is it:

1.Phils
2.Find an old hub somewhere
3. spread the frame for a 120mm hub

Thanks

dirtyphotons

think of the phil as an investment. it will live longer than the bike, and according to their warranty, you.

nolageek

go to your LBS and ge them to respace your drop outs to 120. Worked for me.

imfastareyou

the steel should be OK to spread 1cm? that really seems like the cheapest option at this point.

BTW I read your thread re the french quarter, my wife is from NO, all her family is still there, lost their house in lakeview. hang in there man. I know its pretty tough down there right now.

alaska

some hubs can be respaced from 120 to 110. i think formulas have spacers you can easily take off making it 110. your axles would still be 10mm, if that is a problem for you. it was for me.

dutret

You can space a 120 formula down to 115 or so. Do that and then spread the rest.

imfastareyou

sounds like a good plan on the formulas. thanks.

imfastareyou

alright last question, are the nashbar hubs just formulas? I think yes so I can just space those down....

thanks again

dutret

They were... Which formulas they are makes a difference in how far you can space them down and how much you can safely file off of them.

chimblysweep

suzue pro max and dura ace both come in 110.
phils space to 110 using a kit.
there's some other oddball stuff floating out there, too, but good luck.

the pro max are a good value at $265 for the pair, usually.

LóFarkas

And then there is... Quando!!!

Couldn't resist, sorry. It actually exists, though.

radarkansas

you gotta watch that BB width too. if it's 65 (like my cinelli), good luck finding a spindle for 65/120. but if the BB is 68 or 70, you're good.

chimblysweep

good point... brings up... Axle size.

many 110 keirin bikes have odd smaller-sized axles-- basically you have to file down two sides of an axle to make 'em fit. worth checking whether the axle will fit before you drop coin on a new hub.

nolageek

Or file your dropouts to fit 10mm axles. I thought long and hard about doing this, but figured that I wasn't going to be required to be NJS anytime soon, so I went ahead and had my LBS do it when they spread it to 120.

chimblysweep

all the cutting and filing and bending and stretching. it hurts to think about.

nolageek

You'd think, but it's much happier now.

abeyance

I'm suprised nobody has mentioned BMX hubs. Aren't those spaced 110. But good luck on the lockring.

Retem

get a shimano front disc brake hub and a boone cog that will bolt to the six bolt rotor mount and there you go should cost you under 120 for the cog and hub together check out fgg hugi hub conversion


later

11.4

There have been several threads on this before. You might do a search for them with all the detail on how to file your track ends, how to swap axles, etc.

Short version: You can spread your stay ends (assuming the bike is steel) just by brute force. Two strong arms will do it; use four if you need some help, but it doesn't take much.

The rear axle of a 120 mm spaced track hub is 10 mm diameter. On a 110 mm spaced hub, it's a 10 mm axle with two 1 mm flats milled on opposite sides, basically allowing it to fit in an 8 mm slot. The original idea was that the axle wouldn't spin when you were tightening track nuts, but the industry basically standardized on 10 mm round. You can use a flat file plus a chainsaw file to file out the slots on a 110 frame; the only precaution is to file on the top or the bottom of the slot on both sides; if you don't, one slot can end up higher than the other and your wheel will be canted in the frame. It takes about 20 minutes to file a frame, so it's not a big deal.

Your front hub should normally be a round 9 mm axle, but some early 110 mm hubsets had front hubs (always 100 mm spacing unless you are buying antiques) that again had flats which reduced them to 8 mm again. Same approach applies -- just file them out, and file on the same side of the dropout. Use the chainsaw file to clean up the inside end of the slot.

I don't recommend filing flats on the axles because then you've gone through the chrome plating and they'll rust. Plus you are still committed to one pair of hubs. Your frame is worth more and you have a lot more wheels available to you if you convert to 120 mm. Most keirin frame manufacturers have a standing business doing this on older frames. Believe me, in Japan nobody tries to race keirin on 110 mm hubs any longer.

The better track hubs (Dura Ace 7600, etc.) have cones, spacers, and locknuts that are all custom for 110 or 120 mm. You have to replace the entire set, not just the axle, because the difference in spacing comes from the axle hardware, not from the hub shell itself (which is identical for both width hubs). You'll never get to 110 from 120 by removing any spacers. You can go to www.biketoolsetc.com and find replacement cones, locknuts, axles, etc. A complete rear Dura Ace axle with cones, washers, locknuts, and track nuts runs about $40-45, and you can pretty much only get them in 120 mm. So trying to build up around 110 mm spacing is again difficult. Going to 120 is much easier.

Retem

a quick note that on quick release disc brake front hubs atleast most shimano it is 110mm spacing and since it is quick release you just replace the axle which is standard 10x1 and the skewer with a standard solid 10x1 axle and track nuts

LóFarkas

Front MTB wheels are usually 100mm, aren't they? I think only through axle is 110, and you don't want to go there. Still, it's a viable option with a new axle and 10 mm of spacers on either side.

Momentum

Sounds like the OP's bike is a road frame, rather than a track frame, so I think the axle should be standard width. If you found a 110 spaced keirin frame in the trash then you're very lucky

Retem

https://fixedgeargallery.com/reviews/hubreview/hugi/


please refer to this link it goes into great detail about the specs of the conversion

and another for fun

https://fixedgeargallery.com/articles/tomchow/dischub/

imfastareyou

thanks for all the replies, I think I'm going to try the MTB hub thing and if that doesn't work out then I'll go to the 120mm spread frame.

and just for an note I got this email from Tony at IRO regarding their hubs:

LóFarkas

Do report back if you do it... I'm thinking about it, too.