R.I.P. ol' Trek, ol'pal...sniff
#2
bici accumulatori
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Wait!!! It's not over yet! I got new dropouts put on my Steve Bauer road bike, cost about $120. Talk to your nearest frame builder, he might be able to help you out.
#3
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Every dog has its day.
Actually had seen the pic of your bike and liked it so much I thought I'd build up a bike just like it. My 830 is at college at the moment and so two days ago, on Ebay, for $81 bucks.....I bought a another TREK 830 Antelope...with an 8 speed hub. I think I'll put some Deore equipment on it. I have an extra set of 8 speed barcons..some 26" Schwable....maybe a moustache bar...you get the picture.
Have been suffering buyers remorse all week.
Actually had seen the pic of your bike and liked it so much I thought I'd build up a bike just like it. My 830 is at college at the moment and so two days ago, on Ebay, for $81 bucks.....I bought a another TREK 830 Antelope...with an 8 speed hub. I think I'll put some Deore equipment on it. I have an extra set of 8 speed barcons..some 26" Schwable....maybe a moustache bar...you get the picture.
Have been suffering buyers remorse all week.
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Last edited by Monoborracho; 10-09-06 at 03:46 PM.
#4
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You guys aren't making this any easier on me. I just shot an email down to Elliot Bay Bicycles in Seattle (Davidson bike fame), along with that pic, to ask about repair. If it's less than the cost of a $eattle-Blue-Tarp-Lean-To, I just might bite. So, I'll hold off on stripping the corpse just yet...
BTW: Do you believe in Providence? Never, since buying this bike in '88, have I ever once seen another exact model like it. Last night I found one on my local CL. Same color but about an inch shorter, which will do fine. Email to that one, too.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/216244187.html
BTW: Do you believe in Providence? Never, since buying this bike in '88, have I ever once seen another exact model like it. Last night I found one on my local CL. Same color but about an inch shorter, which will do fine. Email to that one, too.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/216244187.html
#6
Time for a change.
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About time the thing died- But you have all the bits attached to an old cra**y frame that are just right for a transplant- Check out a new frame and start stripping.
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Spike Milligan
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
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#7
Let's do a Century
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Very sorry for you loss..........wait.........did I hear it might just be only one foot in the grave???
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Ride your Ride!!
Ride your Ride!!
#8
just keep riding
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Upgrade to a lugged frame like a 970. You should be able to find an old good one for less than that 830 on CL. Looks like you already have all the parts you need.
#9
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You guys who are saying "ah, yer better off" are missing the point, I think: reading JCM's basenote, it sounds as tho that bike is practically a member of his family. Who would want to get rid of a beloved family member just because they got injured?
#10
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Originally Posted by Katzenjammer
You guys who are saying "ah, yer better off" are missing the point, I think: reading JCM's basenote, it sounds as tho that bike is practically a member of his family. Who would want to get rid of a beloved family member just because they got injured?
I have a beautiful Trek 520 and a new Sequoia Elite out in the shop, yet I go a-Fredding about on this old Trekwan with it's "crappy" frame - to quote that cruel and nefarious Briton over there. Elliott Bay Bicycles did not reply to my E-mail. They're probably just now recovering their wits after seeing the pic. I am utterly dejected. Let's see, I think I have an old bottle of 12 year old scotch around here somewhere...
BluesDawg: I've been watching CL diligently for a 970 frame or bike forever. They are rarer than I thought.
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Originally Posted by jcm
BluesDawg: I've been watching CL diligently for a 970 frame or bike forever. They are rarer than I thought.
As you see, it can work for your kind of Frankenbike. Here's Snidely before he went back to being a MTB, Lugnut.
Last edited by BluesDawg; 10-06-06 at 10:21 PM.
#12
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Wait, wait--I've got it!
You buy the new bike, because your old one's broken and you need it. Then you find a framebuilder to put horizontal dropouts on the Trek and make it into a singlespeed to ride in the rain and around town.
See how easy that was?
You buy the new bike, because your old one's broken and you need it. Then you find a framebuilder to put horizontal dropouts on the Trek and make it into a singlespeed to ride in the rain and around town.
See how easy that was?
#13
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Oh yeah, you asked what size. Well, the one in the pick is actually too big for me. It's a 23" with a SO of 33 inches. I bought it that way becuase I knew I would only use it for pavement with occasional shoulder or greenbelt use. I like the feel of a taller bike. A 21" or 22" with SO of 31" would do nicely as well. My 520 is a 23" with SO of 31" and it feels pretty good on the road - very good, in fact.
Are those chainstays on the 900's nice and long?
#14
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Originally Posted by Velo Dog
Wait, wait--I've got it!
You buy the new bike, because your old one's broken and you need it. Then you find a framebuilder to put horizontal dropouts on the Trek and make it into a singlespeed to ride in the rain and around town.
See how easy that was?
You buy the new bike, because your old one's broken and you need it. Then you find a framebuilder to put horizontal dropouts on the Trek and make it into a singlespeed to ride in the rain and around town.
See how easy that was?
#15
just keep riding
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Originally Posted by jcm
Nice bike there. Just curious as I am not up on all the various Trek model numbers; I though they stopped making lugged frames in the late 80's, like my dead 830. Also, do the 900's have a zillion hardoints like mine? It actually has more than my 520. You can hang your laundry on it and still have places for things like, oh, I don't kmow, panniers and such. Excush the spelling, but I've had a couple in emeory of an old pals' passing... gettin mighty melancholic here...
Oh yeah, you asked what size. Well, the one in the pick is actually too big for me. It's a 23" with a SO of 33 inches. I bought it that way becuase I knew I would only use it for pavement with occasional shoulder or greenbelt use. I like the feel of a taller bike. A 21" or 22" with SO of 31" would do nicely as well. My 520 is a 23" with SO of 31" and it feels pretty good on the road - very good, in fact.
Are those chainstays on the 900's nice and long?
Oh yeah, you asked what size. Well, the one in the pick is actually too big for me. It's a 23" with a SO of 33 inches. I bought it that way becuase I knew I would only use it for pavement with occasional shoulder or greenbelt use. I like the feel of a taller bike. A 21" or 22" with SO of 31" would do nicely as well. My 520 is a 23" with SO of 31" and it feels pretty good on the road - very good, in fact.
Are those chainstays on the 900's nice and long?
If by hardpoints you mean brazed on eylets, my 970 has 2 per side on the rear dropouts and rack mounts at the top of the seat stays. No eyelets on the front fork. I had to use clamps to mount the front fender.
The fork is a fat tubed straight fork that is great for singletrack riding, but I would rather have a curved and tapered fork with eyelets for road use.
I think you are quoting road and MTB dimensions interchangeably, which is a bit confusing. My 970 is 19.5" C-T with a 22.5" C-C top tube and 30.5 standover with fat knobbies mounted. I'm 6' with 34.5" pubic bone height and it fits me on the large side of my fiit range, which is how I like it. For reference, my road bike size is 58cm or 23".
The chainstays are 17".
#16
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
I believe the lugged 900's were made into the early 90s
If by hardpoints you mean brazed on eylets, my 970 has 2 per side on the rear dropouts and rack mounts at the top of the seat stays. No eyelets on the front fork. I had to use clamps to mount the front fender.
The fork is a fat tubed straight fork that is great for singletrack riding, but I would rather have a curved and tapered fork with eyelets for road use.
I think you are quoting road and MTB dimensions interchangeably, which is a bit confusing. My 970 is 19.5" C-T with a 22.5" C-C top tube and 30.5 standover with fat knobbies mounted. I'm 6' with 34.5" pubic bone height and it fits me on the large side of my fiit range, which is how I like it. For reference, my road bike size is 58cm or 23".
The chainstays are 17".
If by hardpoints you mean brazed on eylets, my 970 has 2 per side on the rear dropouts and rack mounts at the top of the seat stays. No eyelets on the front fork. I had to use clamps to mount the front fender.
The fork is a fat tubed straight fork that is great for singletrack riding, but I would rather have a curved and tapered fork with eyelets for road use.
I think you are quoting road and MTB dimensions interchangeably, which is a bit confusing. My 970 is 19.5" C-T with a 22.5" C-C top tube and 30.5 standover with fat knobbies mounted. I'm 6' with 34.5" pubic bone height and it fits me on the large side of my fiit range, which is how I like it. For reference, my road bike size is 58cm or 23".
The chainstays are 17".
The good news is: the guy with the identical 830 has responded to my email. He says it's a 20" but he probably means 20.5" A little short from what I had, but it's technically the correct size for me. He has three clean but worthless bike (including the 830) for $130. Maybe I can get it for next to nothing. Perhaps providence shall prevail after all...
I know what you mean about the fork style. The tapered, curved ones on the 830 are surprisingly comfortable for long distances.
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Saw it and replied. So, are you going to buy it?
#19
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
Saw it and replied. So, are you going to buy it?
#20
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Cool. Friction works with anything. What kind of friction shifters do you have?
#21
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
Cool. Friction works with anything. What kind of friction shifters do you have?
#22
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Again, friction is compatible with everything. Compatibility of shifters was not an issue before indexing came along. 7 speed is no problem. I have 7 speed freewheel on my Bridgestone. I have used friction thumb shifters with 8 speed on my MTB with no problems. Go for it.
#23
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
Again, friction is compatible with everything. Compatibility of shifters was not an issue before indexing came along. 7 speed is no problem. I have 7 speed freewheel on my Bridgestone. I have used friction thumb shifters with 8 speed on my MTB with no problems. Go for it.
I'm going to head out back to the shop to write down the components. Would you mind if I asked about their relative quality? You see, I just ride the bikes I have. The only thing I've ever messed with have been comfort issues, like H-bars, tires and saddles, etc. Maybe move this to the Mechanics Forum? Or PM?
#24
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Ask away. I'll answer as best I can. If I don't know, I'll say so.
#25
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
Ask away. I'll answer as best I can. If I don't know, I'll say so.