Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Damaged Crank, Replace only one arm?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Damaged Crank, Replace only one arm?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-01-07, 05:26 PM
  #1  
Ride the Road
Thread Starter
 
Daily Commute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 4,059

Bikes: Surly Cross-Check; hard tail MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Damaged Crank, Replace only one arm?

One of my cranks is damaged. It was creaking, and two days in a row, I tightened the bolt after my commute home, and two days in a row, it was loose the next day. Today, I tightened it 2/3 of a turn.

The LBS sold me a crank puller to take a look at it (I prefer to buy the tool instead of the labor, especially since advice comes with MSRP). The mechanic said that if the problem was the crank arm, I could just replace the one arm. Well, I pulled the crank, and it's worn on all four sides of the opening.

I notice that online places only sell crank sets. If the LBS can match come close or match the original crank, is there any problem with buying only one crank arm?

I ride a lightly-loaded Surly Cross Check for commuting every day.
Daily Commute is offline  
Old 08-01-07, 05:49 PM
  #2  
Batteries not included.
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: podunk, FL
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
As long as you find a matching arm, there's nothing inherently wrong with just replacing the one arm. The only problem is, it's usually quite difficult to find a matching arm, or at least at such a price as to be worth it versus replacing the whole crankset.
the royal 'we' is offline  
Old 08-01-07, 06:17 PM
  #3  
Extra Medium Member
 
redtires's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Erie, Co
Posts: 1,880

Bikes: Fezzari Empire; State 6061 Allroad gravel; Scott Spark; Specialized Status 140

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked 26 Times in 17 Posts
Originally Posted by the royal 'we'
As long as you find a matching arm, there's nothing inherently wrong with just replacing the one arm. The only problem is, it's usually quite difficult to find a matching arm, or at least at such a price as to be worth it versus replacing the whole crankset.
When you say "matching arm" are you referring to the length and Q-factor? Other than that, you can use whatever crank-arm you want as long as it fits the type bottom bracket you use.
redtires is offline  
Old 08-01-07, 07:11 PM
  #4  
Ride the Road
Thread Starter
 
Daily Commute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 4,059

Bikes: Surly Cross-Check; hard tail MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by redtires
When you say "matching arm" are you referring to the length and Q-factor? Other than that, you can use whatever crank-arm you want as long as it fits the type bottom bracket you use.
As long as I had the right size and generally the same weight, would I even notice on a loaded steel commuting bike?
Daily Commute is offline  
Old 08-01-07, 07:37 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 364 Posts
Originally Posted by the royal 'we'
As long as you find a matching arm, there's nothing inherently wrong with just replacing the one arm. The only problem is, it's usually quite difficult to find a matching arm, or at least at such a price as to be worth it versus replacing the whole crankset.
Replacement left crankarms are a common repair part. For a bread and butter crank you should be able to get one that's a reasonably close visual match for $20.00.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 08-02-07, 03:12 AM
  #6  
Ride the Road
Thread Starter
 
Daily Commute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 4,059

Bikes: Surly Cross-Check; hard tail MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Replacement left crankarms are a common repair part. For a bread and butter crank you should be able to get one that's a reasonably close visual match for $20.00.
Thanks. I'll stop by the LBS after work for a crank arm.
Daily Commute is offline  
Old 08-02-07, 03:39 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 54
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The thing is, replacing a crank arm - if it's of a different make, probably won't match. I tried it last month, at least for square taper arms different - makers put the hole at a different angle. So it's impossible to get them parallel to each other. It's hard to explain without pictures.
Adamjc86 is offline  
Old 08-02-07, 06:45 AM
  #8  
JRA...
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: philly
Posts: 839

Bikes: trek 520 & 736, DeRosa Professional, Fuji Professional, Raleigh International 3-speed, Saronni (any info people?), Humber 3-speed, Raleigh Sports, Carlton Grand Prix coming soon!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Adamjc86
The thing is, replacing a crank arm - if it's of a different make, probably won't match. I tried it last month, at least for square taper arms different - makers put the hole at a different angle. So it's impossible to get them parallel to each other. It's hard to explain without pictures.
in theory all cranks are forged and machined so that the pedal spindle is perpendicular to the centerline of the bike. there's inevitably some deviation, but unless you get a bad one that got past quality control, it's probably nothing the average joe can notice.

what you will find is that the q factor on a basic replacement arm may vary greatly from that of the original.
dafydd is offline  
Old 08-02-07, 10:00 AM
  #9  
Listen to me
 
powers2b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lexus Texas
Posts: 2,788
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Unless the crankarm is cracked you can salvage it.
Typically the crank arm bottoms out on the flared portion of the spindle (where it goes from square to round). If this is the case you can rework the crank to remove some material from the crank arm in this area. The two options would be to add a generous chamfer on all four sides of the spindle hole (flat file or dremmel) or to remove material (1/8") from the inside face of the crank (grinder or hacksaw).
The intend is to allow the worn crank arm to slide further up the taper to a point where it is making good contact with the taper.

I have done both methods on seperate bikes and have had no more loose crank issues on either.
powers2b is offline  
Old 08-02-07, 04:20 PM
  #10  
Ride the Road
Thread Starter
 
Daily Commute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 4,059

Bikes: Surly Cross-Check; hard tail MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts
I like DIY bike repairs, but reworking the crank arm seemed like more than I wanted to do. So I bought the $15 arm. The LBS offered to use their pedal wrench to loosen my pedal (so I could use my cone wrenches to complete the job at home), but they couldn't get it loose. They even took the pedal off and put it in a vise.

So I'm buying new pedals. Fortunately, I was looking at getting new ones anyway. The advantage of paying MSRP for the crank arm, crank puller and pedals is that I get exactly what I need and some free labor. Not bad. (Oops, I forgot to have them see if they could get my left pedal off!)
Daily Commute is offline  
Old 08-03-07, 07:20 AM
  #11  
Your mom
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I think if you're crank arm's damaged, your BB spindle probably is as well. I'd replace it all, especially since BB's are only ~$25. But yes, you can replace just one arm, you just have to find one.
tellyho is offline  
Old 08-03-07, 09:46 AM
  #12  
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 7,522

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 486 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Originally Posted by tellyho
I think if you're crank arm's damaged, your BB spindle probably is as well. I'd replace it all, especially since BB's are only ~$25. But yes, you can replace just one arm, you just have to find one.
Unless it's a steel arm, which would occur cheaper bikes, the aluminum arm will wear long before the steel crank spindle. I replaced many, many left crank arms in my life and have not seen a problem with them not mating and staying on the used spindle.
cny-bikeman is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.