steadybreeze

Ok i've got myself into a real mess here...... I have a 1994 Kona Kilauea with a 1-1/8" Threaded Velocity Headset. I bought a 1" quill Cattleprod stem and 1" threaded Tange Race strut sus forks having been told i could buy a 1 1/8" to 1" THREADED Headset reducer. Since getting all the stuff together i've seen nothing of the sort only THREADLESS reducers.

So simple question How do i fit 1" threaded stuff in a 1 1/8" threaded headset/headtube ?.
Is there a headset that will fit as 1 1/8" but take a 1" threaded fork/Quill etc or do i need some kind of reducer that i can't seem to find anywhere ?

I really would appreciate any help/advice as i'm completely stuck at the moment and cant finish the bike until it's sorted.

BikEthan

https://www.chrisking.com/headsets/hds_devo.html

Read all the way to the bottom.

steadybreeze

Thanks for the reply, still not sure what its all about but if you say the solution is definitely on that site and it can be done i'll have a good look into it. Cheers mate.

steadybreeze

Still need help, i emailed 'Chris King' in the end and got this reply..........
..
"Our Devolution conversion headsets allow the use of a 1" threadless steerer tube with our 1 1/8" cups. The devolution can only be used with threadless steerer tubes. We do not produce threaded version of the Devolution. If you wanted to use our Devolution headset you would need to use a threadless steerer tube and stem. The GripNut and 2Nut headsets are our threaded headset offerings but they are not available as a Devolution. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thank you for your interest in Chris King Precision Components and have a good day"

Please someone help me !!!

BikEthan

Gah. Sorry mis-understood the copy on the site. Try this instead.

https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...t+Reducer.aspx


These will press into the frame after you remove the existing 1 1/8" headset then you press in a 1" threaded headset. There's no viable way to make an adapter to go between the existing headset and the steerer/crown of your fork since every manufacturer makes things a little differently. I'm guessing this is your only viable solution but if someone else knows of another way to do this I'm all ears. Also you won't need to buy a $100 Chris King headset you know... unless you want to.

steadybreeze

Ok i'm going to give it a go. Top man.

Freewheeler

Do you rally a Saab 96?

Retro Grouch 

Go to your LBS. Ask them to special order from QBP part #HD9901. It's a pair of "Problem Solvers" aluminum sleeves that reduce the inner diameter of the head tube to allow the use of a smaller diameter headset and steerer tube.

It'll add 2mm onto your stack height so I hope your steerer tube length isn't too close.

steadybreeze

Unobtainable in Merry Olde England i'm afraid...one dealer can get them for me if i'm prepared to wait 2-6 weeks, there's a chap on the US Ebay who will send me some to the UK but wants $42 for the shipping, i'll probably end up getting them from 'jensonusa' shipping is still $30+ but looks about the cheapest option.

Seems really crazy price considering someone charged me only $1.90 to send a NOS box of Onza Chill Pills last week.

Junkbike

Well, this reply is 8 years late but if someone comes across this thread I have a free ghetto way to do it without buying anything.
And yes, I know, order the correct reducers blah blah. This is on the fly and assuming you have the bike parts.
-Take your 1-1/18" forks/ headset/ everything off. Leave the bearing cups on.
This is where I assume you have the crown race and bearing cups for the 1" forks (if you still have the donor frame).
-Put only the bearings (unsealed if you have cups as part of your headset I assume) in the 1-1/18" Headtube headset cups.
-Now pop the bearing cups off the old frame.
-Set them inside the 1-1/8" bearings (they fit nicely because of the taper)
-Install 1" threaded forks/ headset/ handlebars as usual!

So you basically just leave the bearings in the 1-1/8" head tube and use those as the reducers. You end up with both 1-1/8" and 1" cups and bearings on top and bottom but it's stable and extra bearing-y!

Hopefully your 1" steerer is long enough. It's most likely longer. If it's threaded far down you can cut it or buy 1" headset spacers (or use a piece of pipe lol)

I'd attach pics if I knew how.

fietsbob

They made a special Rally version BITD .. used a lot more spot-welds and stiffened up the Body..

Taunus V4 and Capri V6 apparently bolted up to the same transaxle.

Heres one a more Modified V4 https://www.saabplanet.com/1970-saab-...y-car-on-sale/

fietsbob

a Machined sleeve inside the Head tube, 1" threadless headset .

BBB BHP 20 A quill type stem raiser wiggle.com | BBB BHP-20/21 Stem Extender | Oversize Stems

and it also allows you convert to a threadless stem

You can make it go into the fork until it comes to the internal butting

Or Hire a Machine Shop to add a Steel 1/16" wall sleeve over the Fork you got, so, It functions as a 1.125" threadless Fork.



A locking spacer can retain the threadless Headset adjustment to stuff a quill stem in, but its a rather pointless effort .. re sell the NOS in the bag Stem