Light in the $150 range?
05-13-08, 12:05 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Light in the $150 range?
I am looking for a light in the $150 range that has 2-3 hours of constant on time, decent light projection and is relatively rugged. Any common suggestions?
05-13-08, 12:14 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 1,654
Bikes: SS Surly Crosscheck; '91 Cannondale 3.0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Cygolite Dual Cross Pro NiMH
4 settings, low setting is good for like 100 hrs. of run time, high setting (SUPER bright) is good for 4 hrs. of run time.
I think it's like $160, so a bit over, but it's well worth it.
4 settings, low setting is good for like 100 hrs. of run time, high setting (SUPER bright) is good for 4 hrs. of run time.
I think it's like $160, so a bit over, but it's well worth it.
05-13-08, 12:56 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 11,375
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
L&M Solo NiMH
13W
2.5 - 3.0 hours runtime
$120
I've been beating the snot out of one of these lights for almost 2 years, year round: Rain, snow, summer sun... No problems at all.
13W
2.5 - 3.0 hours runtime
$120
I've been beating the snot out of one of these lights for almost 2 years, year round: Rain, snow, summer sun... No problems at all.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
05-13-08, 12:58 PM
#4
GATC
I'm really happy w/ my wife's niterider minewt x2. I am thinking $150 is right about the exact price for most any LED light that will make you happy but not necessarily guide in helicopters to land on you.
I have more gripes about my ~$125 (at the time) halo light, but can't think of anything meaningful to improve on the minewt (or probably any other similar LED). I ride on city streets and completely unlit trail.
The minewt we have by the way is Li Ion which might be closer to $180 than $150 but closer to 5 hrs run time than 3.
I have more gripes about my ~$125 (at the time) halo light, but can't think of anything meaningful to improve on the minewt (or probably any other similar LED). I ride on city streets and completely unlit trail.
The minewt we have by the way is Li Ion which might be closer to $180 than $150 but closer to 5 hrs run time than 3.
05-13-08, 01:13 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 1,654
Bikes: SS Surly Crosscheck; '91 Cannondale 3.0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm really happy w/ my wife's niterider minewt x2. I am thinking $150 is right about the exact price for most any LED light that will make you happy but not necessarily guide in helicopters to land on you.
I have more gripes about my ~$125 (at the time) halo light, but can't think of anything meaningful to improve on the minewt (or probably any other similar LED). I ride on city streets and completely unlit trail.
The minewt we have by the way is Li Ion which might be closer to $180 than $150 but closer to 5 hrs run time than 3.
I have more gripes about my ~$125 (at the time) halo light, but can't think of anything meaningful to improve on the minewt (or probably any other similar LED). I ride on city streets and completely unlit trail.
The minewt we have by the way is Li Ion which might be closer to $180 than $150 but closer to 5 hrs run time than 3.
05-13-08, 01:18 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 435
Bikes: Giant OCR1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
+1
I've actually moved on to a Dinotte 200L due to it's smaller size (easier to carry around in my mess bag), but it's also about $60 more.
My Cygolite Dual Cross Pro lasted through an entire Seattle winter, including being left out in the rain for 8 hours at a time on my bicycle for a couple of months, with nary a hiccup. 4 hour runtime on high seemed accurate the couple of times I ran it down. The coverage the Cygolite provides is actually better than the Dinotte. Now the Cygolite has become my girlfriend's good headlight.
Very good light. Well worth the money.
I've actually moved on to a Dinotte 200L due to it's smaller size (easier to carry around in my mess bag), but it's also about $60 more.
My Cygolite Dual Cross Pro lasted through an entire Seattle winter, including being left out in the rain for 8 hours at a time on my bicycle for a couple of months, with nary a hiccup. 4 hour runtime on high seemed accurate the couple of times I ran it down. The coverage the Cygolite provides is actually better than the Dinotte. Now the Cygolite has become my girlfriend's good headlight.
Very good light. Well worth the money.
05-13-08, 01:22 PM
#7
GATC
Really? Maybe w/in a light type (Minewt say) but the minewt's Li battery is vanishingly small against my cygo nimh battery pushing a 15W halo and has 3-5x the life per charge. Maybe it's just the beauty of LED
05-13-08, 01:27 PM
#10
Luggite
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,906
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Only problem I've found with the Cygolite Dual Cross Pro NiMH is that on any of the less than max output settings, that whatever is doing the dimming of the bulbs emits RF signals that tell my wireless bike computer that I'm going about 50 mph
. I've learned to just leave the light on full blast at all times. Actually, the only reason I ever dimmed it near the end of the lighting season when I started out in darkness but finished in daylight. I would set it to 25% to save battery power. No need really, especially since it lasts for days and costs nothing to recharge.
. I've learned to just leave the light on full blast at all times. Actually, the only reason I ever dimmed it near the end of the lighting season when I started out in darkness but finished in daylight. I would set it to 25% to save battery power. No need really, especially since it lasts for days and costs nothing to recharge.
05-13-08, 02:04 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 1,654
Bikes: SS Surly Crosscheck; '91 Cannondale 3.0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I think I'm happy paying less for a slightly bigger battery that last longer and charges faster
05-13-08, 02:17 PM
#12
GATC
I guess it depends what you're running off the battery 'cause I sure dislike my nimh battery relative to the Li one. Maybe if I switched the lightheads I'd like it again and not like the Li one that I have co-opted.
05-13-08, 02:38 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: "New" EU.
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Plus Li-Ion has near zero self-discharge, which may be important if night rides are infrequent AND unplanned.
But, yes, NiMH are better in the cold.
05-13-08, 02:42 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 1,654
Bikes: SS Surly Crosscheck; '91 Cannondale 3.0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Apples to oranges. Lithium battery is builkier than NiMH at the same weight, but they do store more power per mass unit. So, if Li-Ion was retrofitted on primary NiMH design this might be true, but LiIons would e better if design was with LiIons in mind from the beginning.
Plus Li-Ion has near zero self-discharge, which may be important if night rides are infrequent AND unplanned.
But, yes, NiMH are better in the cold.
Plus Li-Ion has near zero self-discharge, which may be important if night rides are infrequent AND unplanned.
But, yes, NiMH are better in the cold.
Thass right, the zero discharge is a big advantage for many. I ride same hours every day, and use my light on the way in only, for about an hour one way on full or 3/4 full, so I typically charge it on Sunday night and am good for the week. I'm not as worried about the unplanned or discharge.
I think if you're building a light yourself then Li-Ion is the way to go, at least from what I've been told, but for the off the shelf lights if weight isn't a big deal then the NiMH seem to be cheaper and have better performance towards general commuting.
05-13-08, 03:01 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 435
Bikes: Giant OCR1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Only problem I've found with the Cygolite Dual Cross Pro NiMH is that on any of the less than max output settings, that whatever is doing the dimming of the bulbs emits RF signals that tell my wireless bike computer that I'm going about 50 mph. I've learned to just leave the light on full blast at all times. Actually, the only reason I ever dimmed it near the end of the lighting season when I started out in darkness but finished in daylight. I would set it to 25% to save battery power. No need really, especially since it lasts for days and costs nothing to recharge.
. I've learned to just leave the light on full blast at all times. Actually, the only reason I ever dimmed it near the end of the lighting season when I started out in darkness but finished in daylight. I would set it to 25% to save battery power. No need really, especially since it lasts for days and costs nothing to recharge.Then I got the Cygolite.
Now I have the Dinotte.
They have have ALL messed with my wireless computer. The Dinotte less than the others, but I still get max speeds in the 60 mph+ range after a night ride.
Luckily part of the display on my wireless computer just died and I'm replacing it with a cheapo wired one.
05-13-08, 05:37 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Windsor, CO
Posts: 315
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
05-13-08, 06:13 PM
#17
Infamous Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 24,360
Bikes: Surly Big Dummy, Fuji World, 80ish Bianchi
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
Until you get below 40F
__________________
"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
05-13-08, 06:18 PM
#18
Infamous Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 24,360
Bikes: Surly Big Dummy, Fuji World, 80ish Bianchi
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
__________________
"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
05-13-08, 07:13 PM
#19
Mr. cost-benefit analysis
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Agua Dulce, CA
Posts: 437
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck Single Speed, Novara 9 speed commuter/runabout
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you're at all handy, and really need to maximize your bike lighting dollars... spend your money on a good rechargeable battery and smart charger here https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2462 Then build yourself a 12 volt, 20 watt halogen headlight out of inexpensive items available at any Home Depot for about $20 more. You'd be surprised at how easy it is. And it's fun if you're a DIY'er.
For about a hundred bucks I get 2.25 hours of 20 watt light - brighter actually, since I'm over-volting it a bit, but halogens tolerate it just fine. That kind of performance would probably have cost me double that, especially with a NiMH battery and smart charger, had I bought a comparable unit from Nite Rider or CygoLite.
So if you're at all interested, there are several tutorials in the electronics section of this here bike forums. And Batteryspace also has all the sockets and connectors you need pretty cheap.
DanO
For about a hundred bucks I get 2.25 hours of 20 watt light - brighter actually, since I'm over-volting it a bit, but halogens tolerate it just fine. That kind of performance would probably have cost me double that, especially with a NiMH battery and smart charger, had I bought a comparable unit from Nite Rider or CygoLite.
So if you're at all interested, there are several tutorials in the electronics section of this here bike forums. And Batteryspace also has all the sockets and connectors you need pretty cheap.
DanO
05-13-08, 07:16 PM
#20
Mr. cost-benefit analysis
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Agua Dulce, CA
Posts: 437
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck Single Speed, Novara 9 speed commuter/runabout
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
05-13-08, 07:24 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 1,654
Bikes: SS Surly Crosscheck; '91 Cannondale 3.0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Li-Ion does tolerate extreme temps better, so apologies about that.
What I was thinking was that NiMH self-discharge slows down with cold temps...but, there's still the problem of warming it up to get it to pump the proper juice for light if it's left in the cold.
Li-Ion is probably overall better, all things considered, but it just isn't as affordable. I'll probably upgrade when I have nothing else to upgrade
What I was thinking was that NiMH self-discharge slows down with cold temps...but, there's still the problem of warming it up to get it to pump the proper juice for light if it's left in the cold.
Li-Ion is probably overall better, all things considered, but it just isn't as affordable. I'll probably upgrade when I have nothing else to upgrade
