supergymnast

Hi There, I'm converting a ten speed to a single speed. I removed the multi speed cluster no problem.
The bike is an old Ross Eurotour, and the threaded hub on the rear wheel is a Shimano. I just bought a single speed freewheel and screwed it on, but there are more threads in the freewheel than the hub it screws on to. It goes on smoothly, and screws down about 3/4 of the way, but I want it to sit flush. I know it's secure, but it bothers me. I want this SS rebuild to look and be more precise than that. Does anyone know where I can get a single speed freewheel that has the same 'thread width' as my old shimano hub does?

urodacus

details, pics, actual measurements???

which hub model? which SS freewheel? how deep is the threading on the two parts?

pushing it further inboard may make it harder to get a good chainline anyway, and that 3 or 4 mm extra distance off centre might be just the ticket..

and before we help you, you'll have to convince us that you've been nice to your bike and haven't lopped off any brazed on parts from a valuable old frame.

supergymnast

I love the high ten steel frame of the old Ross. The Euro tour as I've been told by many here was the lowest end bike put out by Ross - I think they meant components because the frame is very solid. I haven't altered the frame in any way except sanding old paint off and repainting.(the enamel color will be cured in a week). I'm also rebuilding it with the original fittings, cups, bearings, one piece crank set, fork, and wheels and upright handle bars. The only braze ons are for the rear caliper brake and a kickstand bracket and seatpost clamp.. All cables were held on with plastic clips. There are NO model numbers anywhere on the Shimano hubs. I no longer have the derailers.

I see what you mean about the chainline, but I plan on respacing the axel and probably having the wheel redished anyway.

The freewheel I bought at my LBS.. it's full steel construction under the Diamond back label.. but the freewheel itself says DICTA on it.


I've been told that the only solution to is is to get a fresh wheel with a dedicated singlespeed hub.

due ruote 

I just looked at my SS and yes, the FW hangs off the threads by a bit. But once the FW is behind the dropout you hardly see it, and it certainly doesn't affect the function at all.