Bike Build Up
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Bike Build Up
Is there a particular order, or best practice, for building a bike up? I have a frame set (with headset and fork already installed) and will be installing the all the other components and was wondering what the order of components be installed?
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Originally Posted by EagleEye
Is there a particular order, or best practice, for building a bike up? I have a frame set (with headset and fork already installed) and will be installing the all the other components and was wondering what the order of components be installed?
There is no specific order. Why would there be?
Dont leave the bike while your building it, you will forget what you did or what you didnt do (like tighten a pedal or something).
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Originally Posted by KleinMp99
There is no specific order. Why would there be?
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BB, crank, wheels(after you mount the cassette), brake calibers, stem, handlebar, shifters/brake levers, front d, rear d, cables, seatpost, pedals.
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The proper order to building up a bike is when you get enough money to buy the next part- buy it and put it on - its slow and agonizing, but eventually it gets done.
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Make a list of what needs doing. As you finish each process, check it off. But don't start something you can't finish.
My order:
1- Frame Prep - Honing seat tubes, and if needed - re-facing headtube, chasing/ Facing BB. Now days, the quality of the frames is much better and I do not have to do this as often as I used to. But on some builds, I do it anyway.
2- Wheel builds - if needed, Spoke tension and trueness check at least. And then installing Cassette/FW and disk if applicable
3 - Fork installation - includes Hd set and steerer cutting and installing the stem and handlebars. Grips do not go on until the bike has been test ridden once at the least.
4 - BB and crank installation
5 - I check the Hanger alignment with the trued R/wheel before attaching the rear derailleur. And I will also check the chainline at this time.
6 - Now I slap on all the components. I don't worry to much about where they are as long as they are close. I deal with final alignment as I get to that part of the build.
7 - Cable housing cutting and routing
8 - I start at the rear of the bike and work my way to the front.
My order:
1- Frame Prep - Honing seat tubes, and if needed - re-facing headtube, chasing/ Facing BB. Now days, the quality of the frames is much better and I do not have to do this as often as I used to. But on some builds, I do it anyway.
2- Wheel builds - if needed, Spoke tension and trueness check at least. And then installing Cassette/FW and disk if applicable
3 - Fork installation - includes Hd set and steerer cutting and installing the stem and handlebars. Grips do not go on until the bike has been test ridden once at the least.
4 - BB and crank installation
5 - I check the Hanger alignment with the trued R/wheel before attaching the rear derailleur. And I will also check the chainline at this time.
6 - Now I slap on all the components. I don't worry to much about where they are as long as they are close. I deal with final alignment as I get to that part of the build.
7 - Cable housing cutting and routing
8 - I start at the rear of the bike and work my way to the front.
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Feltup and Crum have a good order. After the BB and crankset are installed, install the stem andhandle bars as they provide mount points for either Aero brakes or STI shifters. If running DT shifters install those next and route all cables, just let the cables hang in place or tape them. Be sure to install your cable guide under the BB hanger if you didn't do it already. Mount front and rear derailluers but don't connect cables. Adjust the front derailluer per the instructions. This is limited to the alignment of the outer cage plate to the line of the biggest chainring (parrallel), the vertical space between the lower edge of the outer cage plate and the tips of the large chainring teeth (apprx 1-1.5 mm), and the low gear (smallest chainring) resting position for the front derailluer (low limit adjustment). It's much easier to make these adjustments before connecting your shift cable. Now adjust the lower and upper limit of the rear derailluer per the instructions. Do this without the shift cable connected.
From here forward there's a lot of different assembly aoders you could follow without it making much difference. Personnaly, I'd mount the cassette and rear wheel next. Install the chain. Attach the rear derailluer cable. Adjust the derailluer tension screw, its the one that rests against the back edge of your dropouts, right to the left of where your derailluer screws into the dropout. The adjustment is in the derailluer instructions.
Attach front derailluer cable. Follow instructions to fine tune your rear derailluer shifting. Be sure and double check that your upper limit screw prevents the derailluer from shifting the chain beyond the largest rear cog and check the lower limit to make sure the derailluer won't allow the chain past the smallest rear cog. At this point simply use the cable barrell adjuster (at the rear derailluer) to get your shifts the way you want them.
The front derailluer, with the cable attached but in its slackest position, should be resting on the lower limit stop. Try shifting to the next larger chainring (be sure that you do this with the crankset turning). If it doesn't complete the shift, then tighten the derailluer cable.
The instructions from Shimano are decent and should get you through the procedure.
I'd install the front wheel next and begin connecting brake cables and making brake adjustments.
Then stuff like bottle cages, computer, seat poot and seat.
From here forward there's a lot of different assembly aoders you could follow without it making much difference. Personnaly, I'd mount the cassette and rear wheel next. Install the chain. Attach the rear derailluer cable. Adjust the derailluer tension screw, its the one that rests against the back edge of your dropouts, right to the left of where your derailluer screws into the dropout. The adjustment is in the derailluer instructions.
Attach front derailluer cable. Follow instructions to fine tune your rear derailluer shifting. Be sure and double check that your upper limit screw prevents the derailluer from shifting the chain beyond the largest rear cog and check the lower limit to make sure the derailluer won't allow the chain past the smallest rear cog. At this point simply use the cable barrell adjuster (at the rear derailluer) to get your shifts the way you want them.
The front derailluer, with the cable attached but in its slackest position, should be resting on the lower limit stop. Try shifting to the next larger chainring (be sure that you do this with the crankset turning). If it doesn't complete the shift, then tighten the derailluer cable.
The instructions from Shimano are decent and should get you through the procedure.
I'd install the front wheel next and begin connecting brake cables and making brake adjustments.
Then stuff like bottle cages, computer, seat poot and seat.
#9
hello
I like to install all integral hard parts first...B/B, headset, fork, crankset... then all the petty peripheral items come last, such as levers, derailleurs, shifters, bars, brakes, cables....etc..