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Automotive Slime vs. Cycling Slime

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Old 08-01-08, 04:30 AM
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meb
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Automotive Slime vs. Cycling Slime

I'm finding its getting harder to find bicycle Slime. The automotive shops have plenty. Is there any difference in the composition of the Slime intended for automobile tires or is it just a different size container for the larger volume?

If there is a difference, what are the differences in attributes and composition of the automoitve Slime vs. cycling Slime?
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Old 08-01-08, 05:57 AM
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It's the same stuff. Buy the auto parts store variety and use it, you'll be just fine.

I bought a couple of bottles last year from either Performance or Nashbar, don't know if it's still in their online catalogs.
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Old 08-01-08, 09:44 PM
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Be careful! The stuff for tubless car tires is not the same as the stuff for tubes. Make sure you get the stuff for tubes, and you'll be fine.
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Old 08-02-08, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by waldowales
Be careful! The stuff for tubless car tires is not the same as the stuff for tubes. Make sure you get the stuff for tubes, and you'll be fine.
What is the difference between the tubless Slime vs. Slime for tubes for bikes?

Is the automotive tubless Slime different than the bike tubless Slime?

Is the tubeless Slime for cars different than tube Slime for cars?

I had my suspicions there might be propylene glycol to fiber ratio differences for a low pressure high volume automotive tire vs a low volume high pressure bicycle tire.

Is there a ratio difference also for tube vs. tubless? -or another ingredient in the tubless?
or Both?
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Old 08-02-08, 08:22 AM
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Are we talking about tire repair? Or self-sealing tube stuff?
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Old 08-03-08, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by awc380
Are we talking about tire repair? Or self-sealing tube stuff?
Self sealing tubes.


Why-is the tubeless stuff intended for repair like Fix a Flat?
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Old 08-03-08, 08:18 AM
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Forget the slime tubes seriously. All it does is make a mess when you change the flat.
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Old 08-08-08, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by operator
Forget the slime tubes seriously. All it does is make a mess when you change the flat.
Propylene glychol is so water soluble it's trivial to rinse off. I had two flats tonight on non-slimed tubes in addition to one 9 days ago. Changing a tube is multitudes more trouble than cleaning Slime-particularly since most of the time it stays in the tube leaves no mess.

Or did you use the tubless and are you saying the trouble you had was due to tubless not comprising a propylene glychol base as raised by waldowales red flag?
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Old 08-19-08, 04:34 AM
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Since noone could tell about the merrits/compatibility/optimization of the automotive tubeless Slime in bike tires, I got some and put some in three tires so far. Went with an intermediate 24 oz bottle rather than getting a gallon given the experimental nature of the cross application.

If it fails or if I get a major self repair puncture-I'll report back.
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Old 04-21-20, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by meb
Since noone could tell about the merrits/compatibility/optimization of the automotive tubeless Slime in bike tires, I got some and put some in three tires so far. Went with an intermediate 24 oz bottle rather than getting a gallon given the experimental nature of the cross application.

If it fails or if I get a major self repair puncture-I'll report back.
Hi there!
It's been a while since your last post, so sorry to revive the thread again but i'm really interested in your opinion on the matter
My local bike store is setting up tubeless tires for all the biker customers using the automotive slime
I'm a bit reserved in buying that stuff from them thinking that they are selling the automotive version just because it's cheaper for them to get it in gallons from the supplier, knowing that the cycling stuff may not be available in such large volumes, nor cheaper

So...please let me know what's your take on this
Appreciate it, thanks !
Chris
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Old 12-17-20, 11:14 PM
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The automotive Slime is better at punctures than the bicycle Slime-if that is your question. The automotive Slime is designed with larger pieces of solid for blocking bigger holes.



But I think you were looking at comparing the automotive Slime to the tubeless bike compounds- that white colored stuff used at sealing the tire to the rim- and I don’t a strong opinion since I don’t run tubeless bike tires.
My guess is Slime is poorer for sealing tires to the rim since it has propylene glycol and solid matter both of which are designed to block puncture holes by filling rather than “glue” the rim and tire to one another.

Last edited by meb; 12-18-20 at 11:34 PM. Reason: misidentifed type of glycol
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Old 12-18-20, 01:53 AM
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But I think you were looking at comparing the automotive Slime to the tubeless bike compounds- that white colored stuff used at sealing the tire to the rim- and I don’t a strong opinion since I don’t run tubeless bike tires.
My guess is Slime is poorer for sealing tires to the rim since it has ethylene glycol and solid matter both of which are designed to block puncture holes by filling rather than “glue” the rim and tire to one another.
Yep, comparing the two, that's exactly what I was thinking about. BTW I went on and replaced the 7months old white sticky stuff I had in there(was hard that's for sure) and poured it the green stuff . no punctures yet, or none I felt/saw, all I can say is that a tubeless ready tire (maxxis ardent) stays so well on the proper rim that it doesn't actually need any goo inside. but the difference I saw is that slime slowly was sipping through the actual tire rubber and all over the outside surface I get tiny tiny green dots. the bike tubeless bike white compound was not doing this because of its sticky composition. we'll have to see how it goes on...
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Old 12-18-20, 03:25 AM
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If you get a large puncture, you are going to have to patch it anyway. So I use the most economical sealant. Last time I bought it, it was the sealant sold primarily for cars, but can be used in any tires. I have this in a fat bike.

I did see a Youtube video comparing the different brands. It seems some brands seal slightly larger holes. But I would not buy a brand that was significantly more expensive.
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