When and where is it appropriate to use LOCTITE?!
#1
Thread Starter
26r
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 271
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From: merica
Bikes: road, hardtail, fs, streetbeater
When and where is it appropriate to use LOCTITE?!
On a bike... where is it a good idea to use LOCTITE?
The two places I would use it are:
1. Disc brake attachment bolts
2. B-Screw on dérailleurs
Anywhere else seems unnecessary i my opinion. What do ya' say?
The two places I would use it are:
1. Disc brake attachment bolts
2. B-Screw on dérailleurs
Anywhere else seems unnecessary i my opinion. What do ya' say?
#2
Low car diet
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,407
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From: Corvallis, OR, USA
Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.
operator had a good rule in another thread: use it on the threads of bolts that are not to be tightened fully.
#3
Thread Starter
26r
Joined: May 2008
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From: merica
Bikes: road, hardtail, fs, streetbeater
#4
Low car diet
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,407
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From: Corvallis, OR, USA
Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.
#6
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Joined: May 2008
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From: ohio
Bikes: Surly long haul trucker, Surly steamroller,Huffy Catalina, Univega Alpina 501. Gravity deadeye monster, Raliegh sport , Electra loft 1
loctite is pretty general
loctite runs from keeping it from vibrating off to it ain't coming apart ever again (without heat) on small screws where you can't apply heat red loctite is permanate, blue you can usually get apart with wrenches if the bolt/screw is1/4/6mm or larger 222 purple is the handiest for keeping stuff from vibrating loose and common machine screw sizes
loctite runs from keeping it from vibrating off to it ain't coming apart ever again (without heat) on small screws where you can't apply heat red loctite is permanate, blue you can usually get apart with wrenches if the bolt/screw is1/4/6mm or larger 222 purple is the handiest for keeping stuff from vibrating loose and common machine screw sizes
#8
Yes, I was reading the original post and about to write the same. Loctite... Which Loctite exactly ? "I have a red bicycle, what size tyre should I use?"
I occasionally use 538. This will never come apart again, unless you heat it with a torch. And assuming you've *properly* cleaned the parts before applying Loctite. I.e. cleaning and degreasing properly. Without proper surface preparation you might as well not bother with the Loctite.
It also depends a bit on the materials you're trying to bond. Steel is generally excellent with 538, aluminium is fine too. Nickel or nickel-coated materials are a bit iffy with 538. When in doubt, check the manufacturer's datasheet and application notes.
The OP's question to me sounds he has a solution (flask of Loctite) but is looking for problems to solve with it.
I occasionally use 538. This will never come apart again, unless you heat it with a torch. And assuming you've *properly* cleaned the parts before applying Loctite. I.e. cleaning and degreasing properly. Without proper surface preparation you might as well not bother with the Loctite.
It also depends a bit on the materials you're trying to bond. Steel is generally excellent with 538, aluminium is fine too. Nickel or nickel-coated materials are a bit iffy with 538. When in doubt, check the manufacturer's datasheet and application notes.
The OP's question to me sounds he has a solution (flask of Loctite) but is looking for problems to solve with it.
#9
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
I usually use the blue stuff on spoke-nipples and crankarm bolts. Everything else on the bike has some locking mechanism like lock-nuts or lock-washers, so Loctite isn't really needed.
#10
Thread Starter
26r
Joined: May 2008
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From: merica
Bikes: road, hardtail, fs, streetbeater
#12
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Tampa
The blue version (242, I believe) has come in handy for me when attaching a bottle cage that kept working its way loose. Also, has anyone noticed the blue substance that coats the first 3-4 threads on new Campy crank bolts? Looks like a threadlocking compound to me.
#13
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Ballard, WA
Bikes: '98 Kona Kula, '8X Univega Sportour SS, '81 Trek 710
I don't think anything stronger than 222 (purple) is necessary for bike fasteners. It will keep things from working loose, but not stop you from loosening them on purpose.
I bought a used campy rear derailleur from eBay, and when I got it the low limit screw was stripped out. I had to drill it and EZ-out it to get it out, and when I did it was coated in blue loctite. Definitely overkill.
I bought a used campy rear derailleur from eBay, and when I got it the low limit screw was stripped out. I had to drill it and EZ-out it to get it out, and when I did it was coated in blue loctite. Definitely overkill.
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Bikes: Niner RLT 9 RDO, Niner RLT9 Alloy
I have to wonder whether a lot of the bolts you see that come with Loctite pre-applied (e.g. brake fixing bolts, crankarm bolts, disc rotor bolts) are examples of engineering by the legal dept., or if it's really needed assuming you use adequate torque.
#16
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Gaseous Cloud around Uranus
What bolts on a bike don't you tighten fully???Why have a bolt if your not going to tighten it,wouldn't a rubber band/string/duct tape work???
I don't use any on my bike,but I use plenty of it at work(automotive machinist).
I don't use any on my bike,but I use plenty of it at work(automotive machinist).
Last edited by Booger1; 08-04-08 at 12:19 PM.





