I just put a surly cog on my hub that came stock on the Kilo TT but the lockring tightens against the step before getting to the cog which causes the cog to slip, any suggestions to fix this?

The cog has to go with the lip facing the inside of the hub. If the cog is still not sitting close enough to the lockring threads they make spacers you can add between the hub and cog lip but it will mess with chainline. You can get different sized lockrings (I've had trouble with EAI cogs being too wide for generic Formula lockrings) but that will not help in this case.

I just ran into this problem as well. I got a Surly 17t cog and new lockring for my Kilo TT, but the lockring will not tighten against the cog.

I'm going to go to the LBS and try to find a spacer or a lockring with a lip.

Odd, as I'm running a surly 17t and a dura ace lockring and mine are snug against eachother.

Yeah, I've heard that Mercier stock hubs have a tendency to strip incredibly easily. To be honest, I think you'd be much better off getting a new pair of hubs. There are tons of great track hubs out there and you can generally find a good price. I suggest Campagnolo, Dura Ace, Phil Wood, Mavic, etc.

get a new hub

Yeah that's a cheap fix! Get a set of hubs that cost more than the bike they're going on.

What lockring did you use and what kilo wheel are you talking about, the regular kilo or the pro?

i'm pretty sure surly made a special lockring because of this. Read the paper that came with your surly cog and it'll explain it.

i'm pretty sure it said that with my surly 18t.

The most straightforward solution is just getting a new bike. I suggest pista concept, njs, etc.

ditto. TT pro with the 17t 1/8" surly cog and dura ace lockring here.

I would not suggest the spacer idea, I tried that to no avail. I eventually stripped the hub and have since upgraded to a better hub, surly cog, no problem.

So I took my bike down to the LBS. The guy wanted to check everything out before selling me the spacer to make sure I wasn't doing anything stupid. He tightened down the cog w/ a chainwhip and then the lockring, he had the hozan tool.

Sure enough, the cog could be loosened a bit with the lockring tight. He seemed to think that the original cog was on tight enough to compress the aluminum that it tightens against, making extra room. He put on a thin spacer, and tightened up everything real well. The cog could not be loosened with the lockring tight. He told me to take it home and sprint a bit, coast to a stop, then tighten the lockring some more (I have the park tool).

I did just that, then took it out to try to skid. First try the lockring popped off, stripping that section of the hub. The cog gently unscrewed.

Thinking back, I (maybe the LBS guy too) probably tightened the lockring way too tight. When I was tightening it, it was on very tight, but I could make it budge a little more, it kept budging a little more with a few more pushes, but didn't feel like it was getting tighter. I only budged it 3 or 4 times. Also, with the spacer, there were less threads for the lockring to engage on.

I guess I'm SOL. Anyone buy wheels from www.bicyclewheels.com?