Guy Yinon

Hi All,
This might (?) be a stupid question but since its my first painting project (to be done by pros, not me !)
I would really like to know if the R20 frame needs special care prior to the process like:
- Removing the folding mechanism (handle and the rest)
- Removing both of the BB cups ?
- Any other ideas ?
Thanks

somnatash

Yes, I would think "removing all" would be best. That includes to remove not only the BB but also all spindles of the folding mechanism so that all parts are separated. But I have not done it with a R20.

stevegor

Guy,

I've had a few frames sandblasted and powdercoated and these are my thoughts...

1: The R20 frame was not the most tidy when it comes to weld finish so there might be a bit of weld splatter you need to file back before coating.
2: Before coating, re-install the BB cups, (but don't tighten them too much), because the PC will get into the threads and it's a pain to get it out, this stops that happening and your BB cups will be the same colour as your frame. With the fork, use a heavy paper type masking tape to cover the threading on the steerer and also, if possible, around the bearing race just above the fork crown. This will save you frustration and time when reassembling your R20. If you're lucky your PC shop will do all that for you, mine does, but it pays to ask first.
3: Remove all QR bolts and clamps so the frame will get a total cover, I had mine PCd seperately. Also with my R20 frame I added some bosses for pannier racks so again before PC I put some bolts in them. BTW, remember if you're needing bosses or cable mounts, do that BEFORE you get the job done.
4: Your PC shop should carry a range of matching spray pack paint cans for touching up any scratches you might get in the future, it comes in handy to keep up the nice finish.
5: If you are modding your R20 and need to cold set the rear triangle to accept a wider hub, do that before PC as well.

Good luck and please post some pics when it's done,
Stevegor.

LittlePixel

Yes - remove everything that you can so you don't get paint on the components and do get paint on the bike. A pro place will mask the threads in the bottom-bracket so they don't get clogged.

The 'Folding mechanism' consists of a nut under the hinge and the L-shaped bolt on top, both of which come apart easily with an imperial sized or adjustable spanner.

Removing the kick-stand will be the hardest thing - perhaps you might need to leave this to the pros (if they can do it). One can construct a homebrew tool to get this off (it's the same assembly as on the legendary Raleigh Chopper... see here] or I've just discovered you can actually buy a reproduction specialist tool for the job. [see here] but I don't quite know how you'll get it back together if you do this with the former. On my twenty I ground off the whole assembly. There are better, lighter stands available these days anyway. Grinding is a breeze with an angle grinder (took about a minute) but a little longer with a dremel (about 2 hours and several cutting disks )