Amani576

As I say whenever I post on another forum, I'm a regular of the C&V forum, so, first post here.
But, I'd like to add a derailleur hanger and rear rack mounts on the rear drop-outs of my 74' Raleigh Grand Prix. I'd also like to add bottle cage bolts to it, but, don't know how practical that would be when I could just as easily use O-clamps or some other method.
Anyways...
I'd like to know if there are any locations around the Central NC area that you all know of that could do this kind of brazing (or welding if need be).
I'd like to turn this into my "get places within 50 miles bike", and later on get a touring bike for LONG trips (or just have any other braze-ons done to make this one).
Any input would be great.
GR

cranky old road 

You might try Jack Kane in Jacksonville. His shop is called The Bicycle Shop.

You might find that this will cost more than the bike is worth. In the past I've had a rack attached with clamps on the seat stays.

unterhausen

Unless you really want to repaint, clamps are the way to go. My bikes could really use some paint, so I may do this myself.

Amani576

I know I could do P-Clamps, but, for a rack I'm not quite sure I'd want to do that, but, if I have to, I guess it's not that bad of an idea. I could at least get quoted on how much it costs.
Well, thanks. If you know of any more that are closer, that'd be great.
GR

flipflop

Dale at Cycles De Oro in Greensboro used to build frames.

Bet he'd know who to go to...

unterhausen

I guess my point is, however much the brazing costs, you are talking a minimum of $100 for a cheap powder coat. Paint costs more, maybe $2-400. Obviously, rattlecan is less, but that would suggest the whole enterprise isn't that serious, in which case clamps are most appropriate, especially since they work fine.

acorn_user

There's Ellis Cycles I think. There is another builder who also does motorbike stuff, but I can't remember the name... have you checked the Henry James website for leads?

seeker333

Yep. New dropouts with rack eyelets+couple bottle mounts (either brazed or rivnut)+labor+pc or paint job will cost the better part of what a new Surly LHT frameset will set you back.

NM that you can't actually find a motivated, qualified bike frame builder/repairer. Heck, just the shipping 2 ways would cost 50 bucks. Sure, there's a lot of "welders" out there, but they usually have no bike repair experience and will most likely screw it up, either now, or later when it breaks.

Sadly, it's generally not worthwhile to modify a frame unless its a fancy, expensive frame, and/or your in-town buddy repairs frames. Most frames are simply disposable due to economic realities.

You can do it yourself less expensively with a benzomatic torch and silver braze. You can use brass too but it takes a long time/lotsa fuel to reach brass melting point with a benzo, and you gotta wonder what you're doing to the steel with all that heat x time (hint - its bad). Rattle can paint job follows out of logical dictate.

Here's a thought - get a shimano hone rear derailler - they're cheap cause discontinued. Get a longer axle for your shimano hub (get hub too if don't have already, or shimano hone hub). The hone r.der. mounts directly to the hub axle. Now you work on rack. Use p clamps. Now for bottles. Use good cage for template, carefully trace hole position. Drills holes of size dictated by rivnut specs (btw buy the rivnuts first, use to size). Install rivnuts using diy compression tool. Done.

Might try this shop for a builder connection:

https://www.firstflightbikes.com/default.htm

Scriffer

Would a fairly standard heat gun be sufficient to remove brazed on components? What I've read is it takes about 850 degrees to do the brazing. Is it safe to assume you need the same amount of heat to remove them?

SingleSpeeDemon

Brazing in new drop outs is not at all as intimidating as the first timer would think. I recommend using silver due to the lower heat. Your best bet is to get a cheap practice frame; even X-mart bikes sometimes have brazed rear drops. Be sure to brace the stays well by clamping them to eachother (make a clap out of two pieces of flat stock, drilled on each end and attach with bolts and wing nuts. By bracing these tubes in place, you will help insure alignment does not shift. Slowly heat the joints around the drops and watch closely as the brass becomes fluid again. It may take a bit of effort to remove them, but usually a few light taps with a ball peen hammer will have them drop to the floor.