ezkiel

i just bought a used bike off the local craigslist add. its a GT Tequesta from 97. and also has Judy XC front shocks. so heres my prob.

i pulled the headset off because i was curious to see how everything worked, and i also need to raise the handle bars up a bit to ride more comfortably. anyways after i saw how it all worked, i put it back together, and now there is play back and fourth while on the front brakes. my question is what would i need to raise the bar, and how to properly adjust the headset and aligning the wheel.

the cap is red and says "conixs fsa" and the internal piece says "T.H. Industries"

HillRider

Loosen the stem's clamp bolts, tighten the bolt in the middle of the top cap snugly and check to see that the play is gone, then center the bars and tighten the stem clamp bolts.

FSA is the headset's manufacturer and TH Industries made the cartridge bearings.

ezkiel

oh thanks, i was tightening parts backwards.. lol so the center clamp pieces tighten/loosen play? and also i pulled it out too far and the pieces fell out, and i guessed on which way the clamps are suppose to be, the slot inside the clamp for the rubberband isnt centered..

Mondoman

ez - you have what is standard on today's mtn bikes: an 1 1/8" "threadless" steerer/stem setup. The Park Tool website has good illustrated repair help (https://www.parktool.com/repair/); you want the "
Headset Adjustment - Threadless Type" section at this page: https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65

ezkiel

thanks! its a bit different from what i have, but im sure that site would be helpful in some way or another

ezkiel

bump?

joejack951

You have a few options for raising your handlebars. First, is your stem currently pointing less than 90 degrees or more than 90 degrees from your fork? If it is less, you can "flip" the stem which will result in your handlebars being higher now that the angle of your stem from the fork is larger. Second, though unlikely, if you have spacers between the top of the stem and the top cap, you can move them under the stem to raise the stem up. Make sure that the top of the stem is not more than a few millimeters above the top of the steerer tube though for proper clamping. Third, you can replace the stem or handlebars with one that has more rise. Many options here though I'd need to know a little more about your setup before recommending anything.

The top cap (which has the hex socket screw in the middle of it) is used to adjust the preload on the headset. Ideally, you want it just tight enough so that there is no play felt between the fork/handlebars and frame. If you don't have enough preload, you'll feel a rocking sensation when braking or maybe even a knocking noise over bumps. If you have too much preload, the handlebars will bind when turned. This will cause the bike to feel unstable as you will need to put more mental effort into keeping the bike upright. Once the preload is set, you can align the handlebars and tighten the clamping screws on the stem.

The last sentence that I quoted has me thoroughly lost as to what you are describing. A picture is worth a whole lot more than some words here

DannoXYZ 

Those are actually called powerbands. They may have been damaged in the disassembly. You can replace them with more powerful versions:

https://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=30
.

ezkiel

when i find my camera and some batteries ill take pictures. its a great bike feels good, other then the bars being too low. i paid 260 for it. a buddy said i paid too much, another friend said not bad. ill let you guys decide when i update with pictures, thanks!