Wheels with real spokes
06-01-09, 09:57 PM
#101
HAMMER DOWN
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dirty Jerzee
Posts: 142
Bikes: Sold '08 Jamis Coda Comp, building a Leader 720TR. I know, let the hating begin!
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Now, me, I'm one of the 36 spoke people, but I make it as clear as I can that my focus is to build as trouble free wheel as I can by using a hand built wheel and tensioned by a master wheelsmith using as strong a rim as is available. If I spec a wheel for myself, it would stand up to racing on cobblestones, basically, like in the Paris-Roubaix. My wheel of personal choice is the Velocity Deep V in a 36 spoke setup.
I've got 2 years now on this set of Deep V's and after the initial retension at 300 miles, haven't had to touch them, and I'm not easy on a bike. My focus is utter reliability, period.
I've got 2 years now on this set of Deep V's and after the initial retension at 300 miles, haven't had to touch them, and I'm not easy on a bike. My focus is utter reliability, period.
06-02-09, 07:50 AM
#102
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,931
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
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No problems mate. I think you got the point, loud and clear. I get the fealing that the whole discussion about wheel requirements is one of those situations where people end up arguing toward the same ends. We're all in agreement that there are many things to consider in the correct choice for a rider. Possibly, too many to cover on an internet forum(I intentionally left out my maintenance and life expectancy considerations). See my suggestion above about you and Bully or others, authoring a "Clyde Wheels" article. It seems to come up a lot.
My final statement on wheels for Clydes, if your bike comes with a lower spoke count wheel, make sure the wheels are properly trued and tensioned, the heavier the load and the fewer the spokes the more critical this is. If you get a new bike, the wheels need to be tensioned and trued as part of the setup. They need to be tensioned and trued before you reach the 500km mark, everything else needs to be checked as well. If you still have trouble with a wheel, then you need a higher spoke count wheel.
Ride technique has a lot to do with it, unloading the sadde by lifting your butt off the saddle on broken road surfaces. Going around pot holes, maintenance covers, drains, etc or unloading the saddle when you can't can mean the difference between needing a heavier duty wheel and not.
Bikes used for off road and touring should come with heavier duty wheels from the start, whether the rider weighs 90kg or 180kg.
06-03-09, 05:57 PM
#103
Mike the Bike
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 190
Bikes: Giant OCR C3/Gary Fisher Tasjahara
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Ride technique has a lot to do with it, unloading the sadde by lifting your butt off the saddle on broken road surfaces. Going around pot holes, maintenance covers, drains, etc or unloading the saddle when you can't can mean the difference between needing a heavier duty wheel and not.
Bikes used for off road and touring should come with heavier duty wheels from the start, whether the rider weighs 90kg or 180kg.
Bikes used for off road and touring should come with heavier duty wheels from the start, whether the rider weighs 90kg or 180kg.
Last edited by d4c4c8; 06-03-09 at 06:28 PM. Reason: Woops, miscount!
