Repainting a New Bike
05-19-09, 08:53 PM
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Repainting a New Bike
i have a new folding bike that i want to repaint.
this is my bike...any advice or tips?
i want it to be emerald green. would a can of krylon spray paint for metal be fine?
do i need to sand and primer it , etc???
thanks for the helpl!
this is my bike...any advice or tips?
i want it to be emerald green. would a can of krylon spray paint for metal be fine?
do i need to sand and primer it , etc???
thanks for the helpl!
Last edited by abstractform20; 05-19-09 at 08:53 PM. Reason: image error
05-19-09, 09:51 PM
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hmmm... interesting you should ask, since i was about to do the same to also my folding bike.
it came in commando green, i want it on any other colour but green.
LOL
it came in commando green, i want it on any other colour but green.
LOL
05-19-09, 10:36 PM
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I've repainted half a dozen bikes i rebuilt for a local kids' club, so I can give a little advice.
First, whatever finish you apply at home will be less durable and scratch resistant than the factory paint. No way around it. It will look good initially, but bumps and bruises the factory paint would shrug off will leave marks.
A rattle can will do a decent job, with the caveat above. As with all paint jobs, preparation is 90 percent of the deal. You don't need to go down to bare metal (probably shouldn't, in fact, because the factory primer is better than you can do at home), but ALL grease, oil and wax has to be removed, and scuffing the paint with about 200 grit sandpaper will provide "tooth" for the new stuff.
Think about decals and stickers. Their outlines will show through the new paint unless they were clearcoated initially, and maybe even then.
It's best to strip the bike (of parts, not paint) to avoid overspray. Masking is another job that takes a lot of time (I've read that pros who paint custom bikes plan at least 10 minutes to mask each lug), but pays off with a clean, crisp-looking job. Buy good masking tape, preferably Frog Tape, not the junk at Home Depot. Then apply the paint in several light coats rather than one heavy one, sanding lightly between coats. It will look great until you ride it....
First, whatever finish you apply at home will be less durable and scratch resistant than the factory paint. No way around it. It will look good initially, but bumps and bruises the factory paint would shrug off will leave marks.
A rattle can will do a decent job, with the caveat above. As with all paint jobs, preparation is 90 percent of the deal. You don't need to go down to bare metal (probably shouldn't, in fact, because the factory primer is better than you can do at home), but ALL grease, oil and wax has to be removed, and scuffing the paint with about 200 grit sandpaper will provide "tooth" for the new stuff.
Think about decals and stickers. Their outlines will show through the new paint unless they were clearcoated initially, and maybe even then.
It's best to strip the bike (of parts, not paint) to avoid overspray. Masking is another job that takes a lot of time (I've read that pros who paint custom bikes plan at least 10 minutes to mask each lug), but pays off with a clean, crisp-looking job. Buy good masking tape, preferably Frog Tape, not the junk at Home Depot. Then apply the paint in several light coats rather than one heavy one, sanding lightly between coats. It will look great until you ride it....
05-20-09, 08:22 PM
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I've got a bike with at least 5 or 6 years on rattle can paint job. It has only a few top tube knicks.
I'm going to disagree with the other poster, however. I think that the key to getting a durable rattle can paint job is stripping the frame down to bare metal.
I'm going to disagree with the other poster, however. I think that the key to getting a durable rattle can paint job is stripping the frame down to bare metal.
