RatedZeroHero

OK...
I know there are many post concerning clydes/athenas and bike setup up...

talked to a few bike shops and haven't got a satisfactory answer that matches the wisdom here...

Kenda - Koncept tires 700c 23mm (sidewall says good for 110psi)

weinmman 700c rims (corroded nipples and dirty spokes)

I have 32 hole Maillard <sp> hubs... that look like new...

in order to save cost and remember I'll be a 250lbs clyde fairly soon...

would Velocity Deep Vs with some super spokes with my current hubs be a strong enough wheel?

seeing those tires smooshed flat with the rim almost touching!!! proves these wheels arent going to cut it...

thankfully it was just a leisurely ride with my son on the restored '79 Schwinn Scrambler BMX...

the Premis is fast and I just can't run her up for fear or wheel failure...

(man that front tire smooshed out was not a promising sight!!!)

txvintage

I would just get your current wheels checked for true and tension and ride them. If/when they fail you can replace them. You just might lucky and not have to do anythning other than get them checked.

32 spokes is pretty hardy. If it ain't broke, and all...........

Tom Stormcrowe

Yeah, at 250, you aren't THAT heavy.

Try 'em out, run them until they need replaced, and save y the $$ for a new set eventually.

Mazama

+1 on riding it until something busts, gives you a little time to save.

Would Velocity Deep Vs with some super spokes with my current hubs be a strong enough wheel?
Yes! Swiss ST spokes. I have had mine for over a year and a half (330# rider) with no issues. However, I am running 40 spokes.

Bone Head

+1 --- I'm 240-250 and ride 20-24 spoke wheels with 23s. Just a recommendation: get the wheels checked (spokes retensioned) after a couple hundred miles. This will go a long way in preventing broken spokes.

jesspal

You can also try getting tires that allow you to inflate to a higher pressure. If your tire is sinking to the ground there is not enough pressure.

Wogster

If your going to build a new wheel on an existing hub, then whether it looks like new or not, you need to open it up and see what the bearings look like, before building a new wheel, if the races are damaged, then the hub is basically toast, you want to find this out before building a new wheel on an old hub. If the races are fine, then you need to also check the cones and axles, if these are damaged, then are replacements still available. If you can get the hub to 100% with just new bearings and lube, the existing hub should be fine.

I don't know though, if I was getting a new wheel built, I would use a new hub, then I would know that the wheel builder can warranty the whole wheel, not just parts of it. Plus you can use the old wheel, while the new one is being built.

As for your tires, you should be running the maximum pressure, they should smoosh down a little, but not that much.

Mr. Beanz

If you hold the wheel by the ends of the hub and spin it, you can tell if it's good or not. IF it's very rough,then prolly needs new bearings. IF it's semi smooth, it's fine. I have an old 105 hub that I built my wheel on, it's got over 20,000 miles on the new rim. That's not counting the 4000 before the new rim.

If the race is shot, have the shop reinstall new bearings. Most shops will have a race laying around somewhere. Give it to you probably or a buck or two. I had my tandem wheel rebuilt with new bearings and grease, dude charged me $12.

Get some good tires! I've had good luck with Continental Ultra Race ($30).

I jsut installed a Sefas onour tandem. Back wheel 700X28. Seemded to roll and hold up great. $20 at REI but a wire bead which doesn't mean squat to me and my weight of 230 lbs. They also had a 700X25 which I might use on my bike whenthe rear wears. I didn't see 700 X23's thoguh!

The folding version (kevlar bead) is at the LBS but for $35.

jaxgtr

If you do get new rims, don't over look the Velocity Fusions. Just as sturdy, just a little lighter, I recently put some on my CAAD9 and moved my Deep V's to my Trek.