Freehub dilemma (pics)
08-12-09, 04:05 PM
#2
Senior Member
You have an older hub design. There isn't a separate hollow bolt that attaches the freehub to the hub-shell:
versus the more modern design:
Main issue is finding a replacement freehub-body. Not many of those around. You can try spraying WD-40 into the gap between the outer-shell and the bearing-cup to loosen it up. Then follow with heavy oil.
versus the more modern design:
Main issue is finding a replacement freehub-body. Not many of those around. You can try spraying WD-40 into the gap between the outer-shell and the bearing-cup to loosen it up. Then follow with heavy oil.
08-12-09, 04:45 PM
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Since it's a Ritchey hub, I'd suggest that it's not a Shimano body. Shimano-compatible, for sure, but no obvious way to remove it.
Maybe an Allen wrench goes in from the left side of the hub?
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08-12-09, 05:45 PM
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08-12-09, 07:19 PM
#7
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Is that a Uniglide hub in the OP photo??? I think Sheldon has a photo of that hub and the removal tool on his site. Was just there poking around freewheels last week and saw it. I'll bet a suitable remover could be made out of some steel stock to get that thing off for real cleaning/greasing.
08-12-09, 08:27 PM
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Is that a Uniglide hub in the OP photo??? I think Sheldon has a photo of that hub and the removal tool on his site. Was just there poking around freewheels last week and saw it. I'll bet a suitable remover could be made out of some steel stock to get that thing off for real cleaning/greasing.
FWIW: The top drawing of the two that Danno posted is of an early Dura-Ace Uniglide hub. The threads are smaller to accomodate an 11-tooth cog and are probably very hard to find nowadays. For the truly loony, the 11-tooth small cog means you could make an 11-15 5-speed cassette- providing you could find a 5-speed Dura-Ace cassette hub: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano1982/pages/20.html
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Last edited by Jeff Wills; 08-12-09 at 08:32 PM.
08-13-09, 01:14 AM
#10
Senior Member
There were also 7-spd Hyperglide-only freehubs going back as far as the 600EX line:
Although in this particular photo, it was most likely a 600EX freehub-body that was retrofitted to an older 600AX hub.
Given that this is a proprietary Ritchey hub dating from a 2000 bike, it's most likely that the hub was designed several years earlier. At that time, they could've designed to accept the older pre-1997 spin-on freehub-bodies. As any small manufacturers know, you don't want to waste your R&D time & expense by re-designing something if it's not absolutely necessary.
BTW - how many speeds are on that freehub? 7 or 8-spds?
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 08-13-09 at 02:09 AM.
08-13-09, 05:40 PM
#12
Senior Member
Look in from the non-drive side of the hub. Can you fit a 12mm allen-key down that side? Apparently on the Ritchey hubs, the attachment for the freehub-body is from the non-drive side as opposed to drive-side like for Shimano.
08-13-09, 07:11 PM
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My generic Taiwanese freehub came off using a 7/16 inch hex key. I couldn't locate the proper 11 mm hex key locally so I used a 7/16 inch one that I found at Ace Hardware. Try an 11 mm or 7/16 inch.
08-13-09, 11:48 PM
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IME, 11mm and 7/16" are close enough not to matter. It's one of those quirks of the metric and Imperial measurements- kind of like minus 40 Fahrenheit equalling minus 40 Celsius.
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